The Battery is new and fully charged. When I pull the starter and jump it it turns but not as fast as I would have thought. Turning by hand the starter has a lot of drag. Any ideas? Thanks.
Donald
Donald
when you pulled the starter, did you get it to spin by hitting the start button? It sounds like you jumped it possibly? If so, the starter relay might be bad. Check voltage at the starter when you hit the starter button.
Maybe gently tap on the starter relay. Works for cars sometimes.
Maybe gently tap on the starter relay. Works for cars sometimes.
It spun using the start button but...
it did not spin as fast as I would have thought, but the reduction ratio may just be the cause there. The solenoid seemed to operate fine. The resistance/drag felt when turning by hand was heavy but even throughout a 360 rotation of the gear. I have never experienced ANY symptoms of a bad starter prior to this.
Thanks,
Donald
it did not spin as fast as I would have thought, but the reduction ratio may just be the cause there. The solenoid seemed to operate fine. The resistance/drag felt when turning by hand was heavy but even throughout a 360 rotation of the gear. I have never experienced ANY symptoms of a bad starter prior to this.
Thanks,
Donald
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
Is the battery a Yuasa YTZ7S and not a cheapo? Is your battery measuring 13.25-13.5 volts? If not its not fully charged. What kind of charger? Optimate?
The starter does have drag when spun by hand.
Your autodecompression device may be worn out. How many hours are on the beast?
If the intake vales are set too loose it can create an issue (they usually tighten with use though).
Try feathering the handlebar lever compression release when hitting the button. If this does not help I would look again to the battery.
The starter does have drag when spun by hand.
Your autodecompression device may be worn out. How many hours are on the beast?
If the intake vales are set too loose it can create an issue (they usually tighten with use though).
Try feathering the handlebar lever compression release when hitting the button. If this does not help I would look again to the battery.
More info on starting problem.
Husabutt, thanks for the guidance. You may be right about the cheap battery as when I hit the button with the charger attached I got several clicks rather than the one on battery alone.
It is a Bikemaster Gel.
I've never seen this... Voltage reads 16.5 volts
Decomp trick did not have any effect.
Bike has 55 hours on it with a valve job done 2 engine hours ago, (broken valve spring replaced w/Taffy's springs).
Bike will start on second kick every time and runs great.
Husabutt, thanks for the guidance. You may be right about the cheap battery as when I hit the button with the charger attached I got several clicks rather than the one on battery alone.
It is a Bikemaster Gel.
I've never seen this... Voltage reads 16.5 volts
Decomp trick did not have any effect.
Bike has 55 hours on it with a valve job done 2 engine hours ago, (broken valve spring replaced w/Taffy's springs).
Bike will start on second kick every time and runs great.
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
The Bikemaster appears to be a Chinese import. At less than half the price the battery does seem suspect. The tiny Husaberg battery can be short lived if not always kept plugged into a quality charger when not in use.
Consider picking up a Optimate 4 charger and trying it on the Bikemaster. If you decide to go back to a Yuasa battery at least you will have a very high quality charger to maintain it with.
Perhaps you can use the Bikemaster to power some trailer lights or something. I am not being sarcastic as that’s what I do with worn batteries.
Consider picking up a Optimate 4 charger and trying it on the Bikemaster. If you decide to go back to a Yuasa battery at least you will have a very high quality charger to maintain it with.
Perhaps you can use the Bikemaster to power some trailer lights or something. I am not being sarcastic as that’s what I do with worn batteries.
Ordered a Yuasa YTZ7S MF from Summit Racing
Why fight with wisdom?
BTW, Bike Bandit, though they carry the Yuasa YTZ7S, said they did not have one to fit the 05 650E. Isn't the model number YTZ7S a specific size and post configuration?
Why fight with wisdom?
BTW, Bike Bandit, though they carry the Yuasa YTZ7S, said they did not have one to fit the 05 650E. Isn't the model number YTZ7S a specific size and post configuration?
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
A YTZ7S is a YTZ7S. They only come one way. This would not be the first time a supplier got the application wrong especially regarding a Husaberg. The 2000 and earlier models used a much larger battery and that seems to be where a lot of the confusion comes from.
Be sure to get a good 5 step charger (like the Optmate, my favorite) and fully charge the battery before installation as these batteries have "battery memory". Get a voltage tester (pocket tester) and make sure you are fully charged to right around 13.5 volts before putting the battery into use.
http://www.motorcycle.com/products/tecmate-optimate-4-battery-charger-review-89785.html
Be sure to get a good 5 step charger (like the Optmate, my favorite) and fully charge the battery before installation as these batteries have "battery memory". Get a voltage tester (pocket tester) and make sure you are fully charged to right around 13.5 volts before putting the battery into use.
http://www.motorcycle.com/products/tecmate-optimate-4-battery-charger-review-89785.html
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