05 FS650c headlight how to?

What model & year is your bike? If it is a motocrosser it will not likely have a regulator fitted from new. The windings for running lights are available the Amal SEM stators fitted to all 'burgs prior to 2004.

If a regulator is fitted, connecting lights across it will work OK - that is how the non e-start AC electrical system bikes are connected from new.

Note that if your lights are more than about 50 watts you will need to connect both of the large yellow charge winding wires under the tank coming from the stator together. This will use both 12V windings in the stator & give you enough power to run in excess of 100 watts of lights.

Does your 'berg have a DC electrical system (ie rectifier & battery) already fitted? If so, power your lights from the positive terminal of the battery.

I have an '05 FS650c as well and connected the lights directly from the battery. Problem is, after a half hour the battery drains to the point that the electric starter no longer works. Apparently, the stator does not have enough capacity to recharge the battery while operating the lights on direct 12vdc. Any other solutions?

Pretty sure the '05 has a Kokusan stator and its charging system is quite different to the earlier SEM based ones. Not sure, but I think the high power lights have to run off AC straight from the stator. The DC system is much lower capacity. I haven't got the '05 manuals to check it out for sure.

There have been threads regarding modifying the Kok stator to get more from it and run everything on DC. This is one thread. This was another. You might find more.

BundyBear said:

Pretty sure the '05 has a Kokusan stator and its charging system is quite different to the earlier SEM based ones. Not sure, but I think the high power lights have to run off AC straight from the stator. The DC system is much lower capacity. I haven't got the '05 manuals to check it out for sure.

There have been threads regarding modifying the Kok stator to get more from it and run everything on DC. This is one thread. This was another. You might find more.

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All lighting should come from the volatage regulator. The battery should only connect the starter via the starter button (and of course fuse and ignition button). This way there is no power to the system until the engine runs. This reduces load on the battery for easy starting.

Smart move number 1 is to get an LED globe or even whole LED tail light assembly acerbis LED and make a mounting panel (like I have as attached). you can drill and bolt it to the guard but that is messy and still requires more work to fit. Even better the one on page 20 of the below catalog as it has number plate light and will be a perfect fit for a Berg rear guard.

(Motoled edge 2 taillight)

http://www.stevecramerproducts.com.au/d ... alog06.pdf

If you run an LED Tail light assembly you have plenty of amps left for headlights. If you are fitting a Berg headlight assembly do not run greater than 35W/35W globes as the larger globes generare too much heat and melt the chrome from the reflector. For lots of light go aftermarket glass reflector or twin halogens. The advantage with the halogens is that you can fit the cheap ones that are used in domestic downlights.

I suspect that if you convert the indicators to LED they will appear to be permanently on. You will need to use a solid state flasher relay to alter the switching from resistant dependant to time dependant switching.

Bergs have a very capable generator. The regulator can fail though as it is tiny and the bolt that hols it under the tank is prone to coming loose if not loc-tited on during PD. The battery will last years if the bike is run on a regular basis.

Enjoy - and I want to see a photo of a berg with that Motoled edge 2 taillight LED tailight as soon as somebody has done it !

mutant - I suspect we are tossing info in without enough knowledge about your original machine. What year and model is it?

Bits of what U2slow said do not hold true for all models, especially the ones with the regulator seperate to the rectifier. I suspect the regulator he refers to is a combined regulator/rectifier unit used on some models later than 2000 or so. I respectfully disagree with a couple of other minor details as well. It may just be his wording or a typo making his meaning unclear.

One of the 'berg headlight options for some models uses a H4 halogen bulb (I think P43t is the same? - there was a thread on this too!) and glass lens. These seem to work OK with 65/100W globes, especially on the road.

If intending to use LED lamps on the road, ensure that they will not get you in trouble with road registration laws in your part of the world. Being relatively new to automotive use LEDs may be illegal in some places.

For what it's worth, 2001/2002 models had one regulator/rectifier and one rectifier. The headlight/rear and brake lights were driven via the rectifier only while the battery charging circuit, horn and indicators were via the regulator/ rectifier.

In 2003 this changed to a single regulator/rectifier unit for all electrical items.

I believe the regulator/rectifier still stands as is.

The power from the stator with SEM was about 70 +70 watts. i don't know what the values are for the Kokusan.

Cheers,
Simon

For bundybear - The post says FS650c 2005 headlight - So that's what I went on.....

All of the headlight setup with plastic reflectors are susceptible to melting. Glass really is far more superior.

LED components are not DOT apporoved and therefore not legal in some countries. As I have this on a FE650e that rarely sees bitumen the police are happy just to see a taillight. There are several fully legal LED globe only options available. Not sure about the motoLED but it looks like many more LED's than the Acerbis unit.

LED's available for all other applications and headlights are on the way.
http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2003 ... 70520.html

LED indicators tail lamps that you will by as a complete assembly, even as a stick on panel.
http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycl ... e%20Lights

It is worth noting that most indandescent bulbs are more efficient at producing heat than light. And they don't cope with vibration very well either. try sticking a 55/55W car globe in a bike. first bump blown globe. Filaments thinner than Ally McBeal will do that...

Manual says 150W for the generator. These can of course be rewound. But if you go down the LED path you will have a lot of spare Watts.

A side note to this is that I have noticed a dramatic reduction in the price of normal incandescent globes in the last couple of years that seems to have coincided with the increase usage of LED's.

Enjoy !

U2Slow said:

For bundybear - The post says FS650c 2005 headlight - So that's what I went on.....

Click to expand...

Sorry ... I should read stuff properly before making comment.
Thanks for all your info.