05 550, jetting recommendations?

Stock jetting will be a bit lean.

I ride at about 3500' most of the time and this is what I'm running. 45 pilot jet & 1 1/4 turns out on the fuel screw, stock is 38. DVR needle on clip #5 from the top, stock is DVT. I also have one of those pilot fuel screws with a knob so you can adjust it easily.

The bike will of course run with the stock jetting, but, if you can get the dealer to install that jetting before you pick it up all the better.

If you decide to change the jetting yourself here's tip. After removing the seat, tank, etc... Take the starter motor off and let it lay on the right hand foot peg. This will give you way more room to get the job done. Loosen the boot on the air filter side at the carb only. Loosen both clamps on the intake manifold. Now, pull back on the carb towards the rear of the bike, then pull the intake manifold off and lay it aside. Now you will be able to easily pull the carb forward and out of the rear boot and lay it on it's side to get to the pilot jet. This carb has a throttle positon sensor attached, make sure you have slack in the wire to do this, you make have to cut a ty wrap to free up some extra wire.

If you're just messing with the needle, you can just loosen the boots and lay the carb over and get to it in the left side. There is a 5mm allen that holds the needle in place. Don't over tighten it when you put it back in.

Hope this helps!

I'm interested to hear what jetting was used for the Dirt Rider 24h. I think I read that they averaged 31 mpg.

Jim

velosapiens said:

lineaweaver gets around to sending me the jetting kit i ordered?
2. -mark

Click to expand...

Your kit is being made and will ship no later than Monday. Such is life regarding handmade products.

In the interim stop fretting and simply enjoy your new bike as such will do fine regarding initial run in.

Dale

PS
The OEM FCR carburetor uses the same main and pilot fuel jets as that of the PWM, PWK, Etc. Two-Stroke Keihin.

Hi Mark,
Absolutely no offense taken. As per usual I am simply behind on most everything. Daytona is "now" and I have had company for the past couple of weeks as well.

Vacation :? What is a vacation? :lol: LOL

Dale

I see you met dale. BTW I never remove the starter, never needed to remove carb. The really cool thing is the rear Carburetor boot is very suptle and easy to remove and re install. Once that rear 90 carb boot is out then the carb can be unplugged from the front boot and dropped and rotated. Front carb boot is easy to re install too.

we need a RIDE report.

bb , you say the rear carb boot is easy to install , - i find it a pain to install .

what's the secret to making it easy to install ? .

on installation i fit the rear boot 1st and then the front boot . :wall:

when i say i fit the rear boot 1st , i mean i get the rear boot mounted correctly and then tighten the clamps . then i tighten the front clamps .

I don't know, it all in placing the very loose ring clamps on the boot or bike and just using your hands to manipulate the rear boot into place. then slide the ring clamp on and snug it down. yes I get the top air box fit on first then the carb boot end, If either side gets kinked you can slide screw driver in there and pop/pry it out. the point is the boot is real soft and suptle - very manueverable compared to other dirt bike carb boots IMO

whosahberg said:

bb , you say the rear carb boot is easy to install , - i find it a pain to install .

what's the secret to making it easy to install ? .

on installation i fit the rear boot 1st and then the front boot . :wall:

Click to expand...

The 450 is shorter then that of the larger displacement Husaberg engines. IE More room for inlet boot manipulation.

Dale

bigbob said:

The really cool thing is the rear Carburetor boot is very suptle

Click to expand...

It appears from your avatar that you appreciate all things supple. :twisted: