04 TO 08 ENGINES

rosenberg 450 08 said:

Why is my 08 450 harsher at right up top rev's than the 650 engine. :cuss: now i have riden my mates 650 a bit but i never found the rev limiter on it but with mine i say the rev range is to limited and i will be revving it out at times only having it bogging down in the next gear on steepish hills so i have to rev to the max which i do not like because of the imbalance harshness :cry: that i try to keep a way from. because i know it destroys engines. the dealer recons the engine was fine and just normal berg 450.
Now i have the main left side bearing destroyed at only 3000 KM. so now it's at Orangbergs.
I hope it will rev out like a CRF honda or a husky 450 when i get it back.
I have been thrashing dirt bikes for over 30 years and never destoryed a engine until now :angry: so i know what i am doing.
Now as to the destruction of the main bearings. the berg book says not to hold it flat out on the road ? me thinks this is because these engines do not have enough oil capacity and to much oil ends up top?
And as for the fu#ken oil coming up into the carby :cuss: i try to keep the oil level below half on the window. now is there a fix for that :roll: i would like to have as much oil in it as i can. it would be good if it had a extra external oil capacity system some how ? that would solve that problem.

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i hold my bikes in the flatout mode rugularly down main roads on the long rides we do out west or in transport sections of the Condo 750 and it has never caused any oil transfer issues that i know about.
To stop the oil getting into the carbie i block of the smaller rear breather boot from the tappett cover with a rubber bung and re clamp it on. Its located directly above the cam chain and the oil throws up under force into the vent, I take out the black foam piece that goes high up in the boot and use a similar finer type the same as the foam you get with alloy bashplates from Whipps to stop the engine resinating noise. It catches more oil but still breaths enough
Ive also had a problem with this rear breather splitting and leaking oil every where during a race, what i do is cut 2 inches of the end off the small tube and push a bung up inside tight and block it, using a heat gun i heat up the alloy connector piece where the hose clamps the heat breaks down the loctite and i use vice grips to unscrew it.
Then replace it with a genuine alloy sump plug that holds in the oil pre screen part no 590.38.017.000 and screw it in the hole its the same thread, you need to die grind some alloy from the tappett cover to get it to seat properly.
This eliminates one possibility of engine failure during a race if you dont notice it leaking as it empties the engine fairly quick. it gets your boots dirty too.
This modification allows you also use another method with a piece of heater hose straight from the front breather to the ground and you just block of the entrance to the frame completely.
The other method i use on my 650FC is block off the back vent with the alloy plug, block the entrance to the frame and run a hose from the front vent to a collection canister then 2 smaller hoses come out of the canister, one is fuel line size and cable tied to the frame rail under the seat up high as a vent to the atmosphere and the other hose goes down to a fitting that screws into the alloy blank off plug of where the starter motor usually locates part no 800.40.034.100 and the excess oil then recirculates back into the engine with no loss. I run no starter motor on my FC 550 even though its a 650 FE engine. You can use this method if you have a starter motor but you would have to drill and tap a thread in the cases and screw in a small connector. It may be possible to utilise one of the the bolt holes that holds the starter motor on as the are already drilled all the way through the case and into the engine.
It works for me ORANGEBERG