04 650 sm

Start with a 50 pilot jet (yes 50). You may want to raise the needle 1 or 2 positions as well. This should be a good starting point. My FE was the same way.

on my bike husaberg 650 2004.


temperature 15degrees celcius; best result; 50 for pilot 172 for main with std exhaust.(59SAE HP)

temperature 15 degrees celcius; best result; 50for pilot needle 1 leaner for main 170 with Doma exhaust.(62SAE HP+add 3HP below )

Mine was stock also way too lean+ i greased again my back spring system,and tighten the steering nuts to prevent whobble at high speeds with supermoto and monobike use.Because it did at the beginning,the choice of the tyre is also important with a slick or Battlax no problem,with a rain tire whobbeling 100procent.

hello,

when you have a lot of popping on the exhaust it mean that the bike isn't good at the carb.set up,mostly way too lean.

my DOMA makes at 2000t/min about 90 Decibels
4000t/min about 96-98 Decibels
full throttle a lot decibels.

I have checked al these things,because where I train is on a circuit and the top decibels are 93 decibels at 4000t/min.I know i have more but they let me pass.
The Doma is good but I think that the FP is simular regarding performances.
The lean factory set up here in Europe is for low Kw advantage and also for enviorement regalegends.
Keep me in tough how it worked with the bike.

The bikes come set up lean in an attempt to pass California EPA standards.

My new '05 FE650e would barely start with the stock 45 pilot jet and the choke full on. Even warmed up, as soon as you shut off the choke (WITHOUT getting burned....yeah, right!!!) the engine would just backfire and quit. After about 10 failed starts, you might get the engine to run, but the headpipes became cherry red in a heartbeat! Once I changed to a 48, starting became a one button affair.....and no more cherry red pipes either. I also changed the 178 main to a 180. Not a big change there, but it might help a little. I will also be getting a 50 pilot jet just to keep on hand in case......

I'm getting aboard this 04 650 jetting thread as well

I also experience loud bangs and cherry-red pipes during startup.

I just ordered some main and pilot jets (170/172 + 48/50).

Should I begin trying the smaller ones and work my way to larger if needed or the other way round? I have a Devil slipon mounted.

Another issue: About 5sec after starting with choke the rpm:s go up to like 3000, can I expect this to be solved with the new jetting as well?

no it won't!

the reason your revs go up is because the choke jet or 'starter jet' as it's called is too small on initial start up. for every second the bike runs initially the lower the size of the jet should become as you warm the bike toward normal running and no choke at all.

after 5 seconds the choke jet size is perfect and the bike grabs the correct air/fuel and goes nuts!!!!!!!!!!!

this should make sense to you. if not take up knitting.

as for all the jet sizes everyone is running it's hilarious!!!!

could we move this to the 'funny stuff' section?

you need to change needles and not jets. the factory say EKR. i run DMS at present and have run EKQ happily. i suggest you get EKQ for richer idle and then you won't have to change the choke jet either.

go to sudco and fill yer wellies!!!!! (that's a joke about the welsh and new zealanders and anyone with sheep).

regards

Taffy

This initial lean jetting condition is not exclusive to husaberg,since 1993 many new motorcycles and atv benifit from rejetting the carb.It remains a mystery to me why the EPA sets specs so low that they know the machines run poorly and many owners will change the settings soon after, or at time of delivery.....nsman

Taffy:

So you are saying that I can run on my stock jets and only change the needle? This is the first time I ever heard of this solution for optimizing the fuel delivery.

Are there any reference lists somewhere where I can read more about the different "codes" for needles and what they will do with the mixture?

Basse

because i offer you a simpler solution doesn't mean i deserve a gun held to my head. i can't gaurantee a perfectly set up bike. what i can gaurantee though is the bike will be 90% perfect, go like **** off shovel and you'll be dead impressed!

you'll note in the nearby long thread about FCR carbs that i've put up this morning that the PJ i now run this week is a 35 and last week it was a 38.

i'm notorious for my lean jetting-well at least i am in the trousers i'm wearing.

if i were you i would check the size of my PAJ and if it's a #100 change it to #60. if it's a #75 i'd probably leave it.

allens in the UK are on 0044 (01 uk) 949 836733 and they're the european importers. they do pilot jets yet it's only yamaha that do starter jets oddly enough.

try your local yamaha dealer and ask him to look up the microfishe for YZ426 from 2000-2004. and ask for EKQ or EKR.

regards

Taffy

Taffy

I didn't mean it like holding a gun to your head, I really appreciate your replying to my question. I was just a bit confused (still am I guess) :? :wink:

The default PAJ (I assume that is the same as "idle air jet") is #100. I will try changing it to a #60 as per your recommendation and see what happens.

Let me see if I have your logic right here, bare with me...
Instead of increasing fuel with larger jets (#170) to accomodate for the air (#100) you recommend decreasing air (#60) to better fit the stock fuel delivery (#160)? I hope I make sense...

Basse

it's i who should apologise to you. i was rushing for the door to go coaching and i didn't edit my work at all.

keep the MJ as is. ask yamaha for a needle. from the '00 YZ426 'optional needles' list. it's the EKQ part # is 5JG-14916-E1. while you're there i would order 5 larger starter jet. i think you can work that out if you have a #80 etc. the needle is chromed and tough as boots.

next go to your keihin dealer (allen's?) and order a 38PJ instead of that #48 and a #60 PAJ instead of that #100. you can buy an adjustable tapered point that is opened from closed to the equivelant PAJ size. so straight in at a #60PAJ or the PAS is up to you. PAS costs double but you never need another one!

that's it. it'll go like snot. but get it in your head before your start that it might not be spot on out the box. just come back here and i'll help. i've done over 250 tests on these carbs and there isn't a cough or a splutter i don't know about.

there is an adjustment for the APJ (squirt) and this should be reduced to starting as you touch throttle and stop in less than a second. you'll see how the squirt works and the screws that are there to limit it's duration. follow your nose!

back to that PAScrew; if you turn out the PAS 3/8 turn out from closed that gives you = of #60 PAJ: right for a 38PJ.

PS underneath the floatbowl should be set to 1.5 to 1.75 turns out from closed. this you set by testing. to adjust it on the cheap make a copy of thew £1 tool shown in 'my gallery', if not buy the kouba adjuster from allen's or whoever.

needle on clip 4.

you can also try the needle; OC-DMS from allen's of england for slightly better economy and green laning etc. this needle gives nothing away in power but is never rich. it's a brass needle.

if you buy the PAS then 1/4 turn out from closed gives you #45 PAJ equivelant-correct for 35PJ and this needle.

regards

Taffy

Awesome post, I'm speechless! I will let you know how everything works out (as soon as the snow and ice melts away), thx a bunch!