So there I was, Happily installing new fork springs (.54's) in my recently acquired 2000 Fe 501 Dualsport (CA Legal). When all of a sudden, the rod (for adjusting dampening) that connects to the top adjuster Knob falls (breaks) off. Now what? It looks like the knob just kind of screws into the rod. So, do I need a new knob? These forks are different from others I'v had, the rod connects directly to the knob in the cap. I tried looking at the Download for the 4357 forks but it wouldn't open. I looked on the WP site with no luck. Any body know where to get something like that? Also when removing the caps off the forks, the 24mm hex just spins (sometimes) inside the cap. Is this right? I notice the cap has four holes in it. Is this for some type of special tool to tighten the cap? Thanks for the help.
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
special tool is always being sold on ebay. just put husaberg in a european ebay search and it will come up!
you need to undo the cap from the fork and then you need to pull the spring down and get your 24mm spanner on it. keep unscrewing the cap and when the 24mm nut is far enough down to pinch the threaded rod with a pair of say - falt nosed pliers - hold the rod and then the cap will now come off the rod.
reverse this process exactly to get it back together.
as for info on the fork i simply refuse to help you any more - and that sir. is. as usual. your clue!
regards
Taffy
you need to undo the cap from the fork and then you need to pull the spring down and get your 24mm spanner on it. keep unscrewing the cap and when the 24mm nut is far enough down to pinch the threaded rod with a pair of say - falt nosed pliers - hold the rod and then the cap will now come off the rod.
reverse this process exactly to get it back together.
as for info on the fork i simply refuse to help you any more - and that sir. is. as usual. your clue!
regards
Taffy
Re: RE: 4357 Forks for 2000
Ahhh Taffy I think I know whats wrong with your rebound! Sounds like you aren't installing the caps correctly...
With springs removed wrap a piece of plastic, maybe cut out of an oil bottle, around the cartridge rod about 1"/24mm below the spring-guide/hydro-stop and grip it with pliers. Then turn the spring-guide down the rod, until it bottoms on the threads. Sung it down firmly.
Then when you put the cap on it will bottom on the cartridge rod. Once it bottoms it will obviously feel like it's tight...but NO it's not really "tight" yet...once you get to this point you want the SG to break loose from where you snugged it and thread UP to meet the cap. This procedure "sets" the correct length for the rebound clicker to function as needed.
You CAN just slip a piece of thin plastic tubing over the threads on the rod and grip it there carefully.
As for the guy with the "24mm hex spins" that is the preload adjuster that's tuning. Take the cap off and hold it in your hand. Turn the 24mm hex about 5 complete turns while looking where the spring seats. You will see the seat move. That hex and the 22 mm hex on the SG are what you use to remove the cap from the cartridge rod. The 4 holes are to remove the cap from the outer tube. If you must, you can loosen the cap from the tube with the 24mm hex. Just remember to set the preload back to where it started when back in the tube. The preload has about 10 turns/10mm adjustment.
Taffy said:
Ahhh Taffy I think I know whats wrong with your rebound! Sounds like you aren't installing the caps correctly...
With springs removed wrap a piece of plastic, maybe cut out of an oil bottle, around the cartridge rod about 1"/24mm below the spring-guide/hydro-stop and grip it with pliers. Then turn the spring-guide down the rod, until it bottoms on the threads. Sung it down firmly.
Then when you put the cap on it will bottom on the cartridge rod. Once it bottoms it will obviously feel like it's tight...but NO it's not really "tight" yet...once you get to this point you want the SG to break loose from where you snugged it and thread UP to meet the cap. This procedure "sets" the correct length for the rebound clicker to function as needed.
You CAN just slip a piece of thin plastic tubing over the threads on the rod and grip it there carefully.
As for the guy with the "24mm hex spins" that is the preload adjuster that's tuning. Take the cap off and hold it in your hand. Turn the 24mm hex about 5 complete turns while looking where the spring seats. You will see the seat move. That hex and the 22 mm hex on the SG are what you use to remove the cap from the cartridge rod. The 4 holes are to remove the cap from the outer tube. If you must, you can loosen the cap from the tube with the 24mm hex. Just remember to set the preload back to where it started when back in the tube. The preload has about 10 turns/10mm adjustment.
Taffy,
The fork your your explaining is newer than this, this is an 2000 model and is alittle different. I have the forks your explaining on my '03 and understand what your saying. I was just looking for a little help in maybe finding a source for a new knob or some way the fix the one I have. The caps on these forks have a rod connected to it that goes down inside the SG. Thanks for the clue.
Ktmlew,
Thanks for the insight on the preload adjustment. I learned something.
The fork your your explaining is newer than this, this is an 2000 model and is alittle different. I have the forks your explaining on my '03 and understand what your saying. I was just looking for a little help in maybe finding a source for a new knob or some way the fix the one I have. The caps on these forks have a rod connected to it that goes down inside the SG. Thanks for the clue.
Ktmlew,
Thanks for the insight on the preload adjustment. I learned something.
\mhambone said:
The 4357 & 4860 Internals are almost exactly the same. The "reb rod" is NOT attached to the cap adjuster but they will occasionally stick together. Here is s picture of the exploded fork courtesy KTMTalk.
Item #11 slips into #30 and usually will spin inside it. They sometimes stick and break though.
Attachments
I did get the download to open finally after dicking with it.
When I look at my item #11 this is what I see. The end that was toward the cap has a piece of black plastic broke off in it. Looking at the underside of the cap I see the black plastic of the knob that appears to have had a piece broken off of it. So what I'm thinking now is there must have been a tit on the bottom of the knob that located # 11 to the knob, #11 got stuck on the tit and broke it off. Do you think this is true so far? So wouldn't I need a new knob or some way to locate #11 to the knob. Sorry for being a pain in the ***.
When I look at my item #11 this is what I see. The end that was toward the cap has a piece of black plastic broke off in it. Looking at the underside of the cap I see the black plastic of the knob that appears to have had a piece broken off of it. So what I'm thinking now is there must have been a tit on the bottom of the knob that located # 11 to the knob, #11 got stuck on the tit and broke it off. Do you think this is true so far? So wouldn't I need a new knob or some way to locate #11 to the knob. Sorry for being a pain in the ***.
Put the cap in a zip-loc bag. Punch a small hole thru with a little screwdriver and pry the adjuster knob out. There are (2) tiny ball bearings and a spring in there that will fly in the corner if you don't put it in a bag. The knob is basically a really short Phillips screwdriver. The + on the end of the knob engauges #11.
Putting it back together is another story...I use a small set of scribes to compress the bearings...it's really frustrating...
Putting it back together is another story...I use a small set of scribes to compress the bearings...it's really frustrating...
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