Valves adjustment screw turns endlessly

LeFrog · Nov 25, 2006

Something bizarre when I try to adjust the valves. I have it at TDC, on the compression stroke. I know because I watched the valves go up and down and also there is no slack in the decomp cable.

Adjusting the intake valves was easy. Did the 1/3 turn out.

But the exhaust valves, for some reason, I can turn them in all the way, they will not stop turning.

Hmmm what am I missing here?

I also tried the "other" TDC, just to make sure, it's even worse.

Taffy · Nov 25, 2006

then you aren't at TDC froggy.

you need to stick summink down the plug hole and feel the piston rise and rise. i would pull the fluywheel cover off and the spark plug out to do it. turn the crank with astepped spanner or socket BAR and watch the valves. you need to turn the engine and watch the inlet valves come back up. then stick your rod in the plug hole and usually as i do that the piston is already just a few mm from the top.

you need to slacken both screws and back them out as well as making sure that the manual decomp bar is not being forced by the return spring down onto the rovker. simply flick the spring off it's little screw head shoulder.

and it's 1/6th turn froggy not 1/3rd. just visualise two numbers around a clock face from wherever the slot of the screw is nearest you. i use the fromnt wheel as 12 and the rear as 6 'o clock. always back both out and then go in again with one at a time.

regards

Taffy

kez · Nov 25, 2006

Also Watch Out For Tight Screw Threads,The 400 Had Real Tight Threads On Both Inlet And Exhausts. Thought I'd Tightened Them Down Till They Stopped And The Backed The Out Only To Find They Were More Like 1.5mm.

LeFrog · Nov 25, 2006

Yes, Taffy, I had something in there to make sure I was at TDC and also I have a good trusted mark.

I mistyped, I did 1/6 of a turn, not 1/3.

I just got a feeler gauge. I think I will open the rocker cover after my next ride, I need to ride tomorrow.

BUt now I realize that really the screws should not be blocked by anything, the 1/6 turn out is given as soon as a slight resistance is felt, when it's the spring you're tightening, am I right?

I am not a mechanic, I am just learning it.

Thanks!

whosahberg · Nov 25, 2006

mr le frog sir

you need to turn the screw in untill you feel resistance , then turn it out 1/8th of a turn .

you are not tightening the spring at all in this operation .

LeFrog · Nov 25, 2006

Sorry, the guy was a bit confused and already did it right once before (before the AZ meet ride).

Confused, because when I did the intake valves first, there was a much firmer resistance, which I was looking for when I did the exhaust valves. I then thought about the mechanical parts behind the screw and it all became clearer in my mind.

Anyway, while slaving with too long a 10 mm wrench and and tool long (and too wide) a screwdriver, I decided to create my own tools by sacrificing the 10 mm wrench and an electrical screwdriver.

I used the Dremel to cut the wrench and also add a march at every 12th of a turn. I also ground the top to give a better grip for the thumb.

The Allen wrench, I already cut to allow removing the inspection cover without removing the radiator last year. It does work but is a pain to use, since you can only give 1/2 of a turn each time. Slightly less than it is a pain to remove the radiator (well, at least you don't lose coolant).

The cut electrical screwdriver, I found out that holding it by the smooth area is better to find the point of resistance (when your fingers lose their grip, you found it), while the grip area is better for when holding the screw in place.

The feeler gauge is the justice of the peace, always a pain to use but if you can't at least fit it under the tappet, then you've got to adjust your methodology.

Taffy · Nov 26, 2006

froggy

do you have another 4mm allen key?

just cut 40-50mm off and as soon as the screw is loose with the big 'L' shaped key, change it out and pop the short stub in. then spin it like you would unscrew a long bolt.

regards

Taffy

logjump · Nov 26, 2006

whosahberg said:
mr le frog sir

you need to turn the screw in untill you feel resistance , then turn it out 1/8th of a turn .

you are not tightening the spring at all in this operation .

You are correct Mr. whosaberg, in that you want to back the screw off 1/8 of a turn. With the particular thread pitch of said screw, backing it off 1/8 turn will give proper gap. Not sure where fellas came up with 1/6 of a turn although there is a very slight difference between the two. The 1/8 turn method will ensure better contact with the cam actuated auto decomp bump which helps with e-starting.

Are you listening Frog?

Log

LeFrog · Nov 26, 2006

Listening, no, reading, yes.

:rofl:

Taffy · Nov 26, 2006

it was me logjump. i've changed from 1/8th to 1/6th. i think i measured the actiual gap and the pitch of the thread and it's more than an eighth and less than a sixth.

LeFrog · Nov 26, 2006

Ok, guys, let's make it 1/7th.

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Valves adjustment screw turns endlessly

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