Rectifier/regulator problems...

Ingermar Sir
12 v AC from your yellow is no bloomin good.
You need upto 50 volts from your generator AC. Then your rectifier/regulator can produce the required 12v dc you need for your blinkers.

Regards
Ady

Ingemar sir
You should be getting approx 25v ac on engine idle, rising upto about 65 v during high revvs.
Connect your rectifier/regulator to the AC wires and ensure you connect a load to the DC wires ie. a 12v bulb, or a battery (you need a load connected often on these regulator/rectifiers to make them work) then check your voltage output.

I have slight reservations about one or two things you have said.
Firstly you only mentioned 1 yellow wire.
I don't know the FC electrics, but i didn't know they had power coils in them.
Have you fitted the FE type stator c/w coils. If you have there should be two yellow and one blue wire (3 wires in total going into your rectifier/regulator).

Regards
Ady

Ingemar my man.
Unlikely to be your problem.
If they 'bleed over' it is only to dissipate voltage that cannot be lost through the heat sink, due to not required power having nowhere to go.
Thus, 90 % of the time a connection to earth wont matter.

If you can draw out your entire electrical connections as best as you can, i will look at it for you. From what you have said, your stator is ok.

Nearly there now
Regards
Ady

From what you have reported, I would say you are trying to measure the voltage after the regulator without loading it with a load, like the Headlight.

If so, then turn on your lights and make the same measurement at maybe 4000 rpm.

If it is 13-15 volts and the lights are all right then your stator and charging system is probably o.k.

Some guys put a large value capacitor across the line after the regulator to keep it loaded since you do not have the battery on the bike. This will keep the regulator from allowing the voltage to rise much over 15 volts and blowing the bulbs. Do a search on regulators capacitors.

Let us know what you find and do.

Joe

Your low voltage readings with the regulator/rectifier connected but little electrical load and no smoothing device such as a battery or capacitor is normal.

With no load the regulator shorts out most of the AC wave from the stator. What your meter sees is a short duration spike at the start of each AC cycle that rises quickly to about 14 or 15 volts and then is shorted out by the regulator. The average (often called RMS value) voltage of this series of spikes is the 6 or 8 volts your meter measures, even though the peak voltage is 15 volts. Putting the electrical system under load as Ady mentions slows the rate that each AC cycle rises to 15V - increasing their duration. The peak voltage is still the same 15V, but the average RMS value rises.

Note that in your case, turning on the headlight to increase the load has no effect on the blinkers. Your bike has the headlight powered off AC from one lighting coil with only a regulator across it. The blinkers & horn (& originally the battery & start system) are powered completely seperately from the other coil via DC from the regulator/rectifier unit

Putting a battery across the system smooths out the pulses to a steady 14 or so volts.

You can replace the battery with a capacitor to do the same thing as Joe said, but make sure it is downstream of the regulator/ rectifier unit on the DC side. It simply charges up to the peak voltage similar to the battery and tries to hold the DC electrics at average 14V. If you want to use a capacitor a minimum of 4700 microfarads at 35V should do the job.

Neither the regulator/rectifier unit nor the regulator only unit on your bike need be insulated from the frame. That requirement is only for older models that use one regulator similar to the one on your lights feeding into a rectifier-only unit. In that case the regulator must not have its case connected to the frame of the bike.