Charging circuit

There is a shop local to me currently trying to do the same conversion. The only thing I noticed is that they are using 2 of the regulators instead of one. I will try to get some more info for you later this week.

On my old engine with e-start the rectifier was mounted on the plastic on the inner rear fender. For one to use the lights without a battery the rectifier is grounded to the frame. That might be your problem. Somebody else might know more about this. Hope this helps.

Darren
The top pic is definitely a regulator only. It works by shorting the two wires together the instant the voltage between them gets higher than the regulation voltage, about 13.8 to 14.2V. It is the one I mentioned in the "98 FEE Charging System schematic and breakdown" in the downloads section. (but from the ratings, someone thought this was not helpful?)

One of the wires is connected internally to the aluminium case of this regulator, but to use it in a 12VDC system with negative connected to the frame (ie with a battery), the case of the regulator MUST be insulated from the frame - hence mounting it on the plastic rear fender.

To use it on a DC system, it must be used with a seperate rectifier unit. That is a small block about 1" square x 1/2" thick with four spade lugs on it that changes the AC output from the stator to DC.



The bottom one is a combined regulator/rectifier unit as used on later models. If you use it, you should not need to add the regulator in the first pic.

The stator connects to the yellow AC input wires and the regulated DC should be available from the red & black wires - ie black goes to the frame and red goes to the battery. I don't think its body has to be insulated from the frame as none of the AC stator wires connect to its case.

From the pic it looks like three stator connection wires (with spades on them) go into the right plastic wire sleeve but only two come out of it and go into the aluminium box? If this is so, two of the wires connect together inside the sleeving and hopefully these are the same colour while the third is different. This should suit your SEM stator as it has two seperate lighting coil windings. One is between the blue wire and one yellow wire from the stator, the other is between the same blue wire & the other yellow wire. The two yellow stator wires must connect to the two wires that connect to each other inside the sleeve! If you connect it otherwise, one of the lighting coils in the stator will be shorted directly out!

Hope this is some help.

darrenrav,

Enclosed is a wiring schematic for the 2001/2002 bikes fitted with lighting but without the turn signals. I have also enclosed a schematic for the FX & FCe bikes without lighting but electric start. I hope this will help you.

Regards,

darrenrav said:

Bundybear thanks for the info (it wasn't me that voted) I've edited my post to show that the larger rectifier has three yellow wires. So I guess my question now is do I connect the two yellow and blue wires from the stator to the three yellow wire on this new rectifier ? If so is there a perticular order, do I have to check with a mutimeter etc and what reading should I get?

Does anyone have a circuit diagram for this regulator/rectifier (the second pic in the above post)?

Thanks again

Darren

Click to expand...

Hi Darren, this question has come up before, the following thread should answer your questions, let us know. Look at the husaberg part number on the Rectifier, hopefully it is the same as mine on my 00 FE501 E in which case it is a stand alone rectifier/regulator and provides 12 VDC to everything on the bike, including recharging the battery and powering the lights. It is a full wave device, and puts out 140 watts . The middle yellow wire on mine goes to the blue wire on the stator harness.

The rectifier provided on the 00 and 03 Bergs is part # 180 123-01

The rectifier provided on the 01 and 02 Bergs is only a 1/2 wave 70 watt device part # 180 172-01. It was used to charge the battery only and not run any lights. Power to the lights was from the AC voltage regulator part # 180 019-01 and was only a 1/2 wave 70 watt device.

I have measured the DCV on my 00 berg at 12.93 V engine off, lights off, and 14.0 V engine running, lights off.

Let us know what the number on yours is!

The following thread may be helpful to you.

http://www.husaberg.org/modules.php?nam ... =rectifier

I have attached the schematic for my 00 Berg, showing the full wave rectifier.

Regards,

Joe

Do any of the yellow wires have a stripe or anything that would differentiate it from the other two? If so the different one needs to go to the blue as Joe said.

If all the wires look the same, it could be that the rectifier/regulator was originally designed for a three phase charging system - similar to that used in automotive alternators. I can't say I have ever seen a three phase system on a bike, but the same reg/rect may have been built for some other machine? If this is the case, you should be able to connect the three wires from the stator to the three wires to the reg/rect in any order and it should work fine. It would just mean that some of the internal diodes would never actually carry any current.

Best way to check your unit is to measure resistance between pairs of yellow wires with a meter. If two of them appear directly connected together (ie less than a fraction of an ohm), these are the two that need to go to the yellow stator wires. If not, it could be the second case.

It may also be possible that the unit has failed and won't work any way it is connected.

Without any load I would expect the reading on a multimeter to be less than 12V, as you describe.

The reason is that the regulator shorts the stator out when the voltage goes higher than a preset value. Without any load this happens in a very short period of time each AC cycle. What your meter sees would be a very short duration spike up to about 15V, then zero volts for the rest of the cycle. The meter shows the average voltage over the entire cycle - in your case this must be about 4 volts.

I believe your charging system is working correctly. 13.8V engine off indicates your battery should be fully charged. Less than 12.6 or so with the engine off is a flat battery.

14.8V engine running is on the high side but still OK. Being a tad high just guarrantees the battery stays fully charged. If the charging voltage gets too high the battery will get overcharged and will become hot after a run. My regulator failed once and the battery boiled and ruptured. :shock:

JoeUSA said:

Hi Darren, this question has come up before, the following thread should answer your questions, let us know. Look at the husaberg part number on the Rectifier, hopefully it is the same as mine on my 00 FE501 E in which case it is a stand alone rectifier/regulator and provides 12 VDC to everything on the bike, including recharging the battery and powering the lights. It is a full wave device, and puts out 140 watts . The middle yellow wire on mine goes to the blue wire on the stator harness.

The rectifier provided on the 00 and 03 Bergs is part # 180 123-01

The rectifier provided on the 01 and 02 Bergs is only a 1/2 wave 70 watt device part # 180 172-01. It was used to charge the battery only and not run any lights. Power to the lights was from the AC voltage regulator part # 180 019-01 and was only a 1/2 wave 70 watt device.

I have measured the DCV on my 00 berg at 12.93 V engine off, lights off, and 14.0 V engine running, lights off.

Let us know what the number on yours is!

The following thread may be helpful to you.

http://www.husaberg.org/modules.php?nam ... =rectifier

I have attached the schematic for my 00 Berg, showing the full wave rectifier.

Regards,

Joe

Click to expand...

Sir, you just made my life infinitely better.

Domini said:

Sir, you just made my life infinitely better.

Click to expand...

I'd be surprised if Joe is still with us, he was 75 years old 17 years ago when I met him. But I'm sure he'd appreciate the thanks.

Taffy