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2010 Fx450 crank no start after engine work

Joined Oct 2022
4 Posts | 0+
Grand Junction Co
Context;
Alright, I'll start off with some context. I had an oil filter housing bolt back out and ran out of oil on a big ride. The bike lost time, bent the heck out of some valves, and janked all the plastic bits in the timing drive area.

Work done;
So, after screwing about order parts, dealing with a couple of backorders and such I got to work. I replaced the cam chain, tensioning rail, intake side rocker arm, and set the valve tolerances. I got the bike back together and cranked but no start, bummer. When I pulled the rotor I didn't actually mark time but the things keyed so that shouldn't matter, as far as I can tell.

Troubleshooting attempts
I figured it was just bad gas since it had been sitting since fall, so I drained the tank and put fresh fuel in it. My buddy held the coil and spark plug against some pliers, and she's got spark. I can hear the fuel pump running so I'm at a loss. Seems like this has to be electrical but I'm not sure what it could be. I checked the resistance on the coil, and while I couldn't find specs the resistance seems ballpark reasonable and the engine has spark. I disconnected the TPS and tried to start it, but no luck. I've read about poorly grounded kill switches causing a no-start but I don't know how to check that. I read about some ECU problems so I disconnected it, and all the pins looked fine so I reconnected it, same issues.

Has anyone had problems with a rollover sensor causing a no-start? I attached a photo of two unconnected portions of the harness, I don't recall those ever going to anything though so it seems unlikely that these are the problem. Does anybody know what they're for? The loose wire in this photo was used to run a rear brake light before I had the bike. I've pretty much run out of things to check here and would appreciate any input or suggestions folks may have.
 

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Context;
Alright, I'll start off with some context. I had an oil filter housing bolt back out and ran out of oil on a big ride. The bike lost time, bent the heck out of some valves, and janked all the plastic bits in the timing drive area.

Work done;
So, after screwing about order parts, dealing with a couple of backorders and such I got to work. I replaced the cam chain, tensioning rail, intake side rocker arm, and set the valve tolerances. I got the bike back together and cranked but no start, bummer. When I pulled the rotor I didn't actually mark time but the things keyed so that shouldn't matter, as far as I can tell.

Troubleshooting attempts
I figured it was just bad gas since it had been sitting since fall, so I drained the tank and put fresh fuel in it. My buddy held the coil and spark plug against some pliers, and she's got spark. I can hear the fuel pump running so I'm at a loss. Seems like this has to be electrical but I'm not sure what it could be. I checked the resistance on the coil, and while I couldn't find specs the resistance seems ballpark reasonable and the engine has spark. I disconnected the TPS and tried to start it, but no luck. I've read about poorly grounded kill switches causing a no-start but I don't know how to check that. I read about some ECU problems so I disconnected it, and all the pins looked fine so I reconnected it, same issues.

Has anyone had problems with a rollover sensor causing a no-start? I attached a photo of two unconnected portions of the harness, I don't recall those ever going to anything though so it seems unlikely that these are the problem. Does anybody know what they're for? The loose wire in this photo was used to run a rear brake light before I had the bike. I've pretty much run out of things to check here and would appreciate any input or suggestions folks may have.
I think those connectors are for the indicators. Sure you'e getting fuel through? Plug coming out wet? Nothing electrical will die if it was running when it blew up, unless it got super hot- so more likely fuel related. Clean all fuel filters, check fuel coming out quick connect when the pump primes. Try squirt a little fuel into throttle body when cranking.
 
So there’s fuel after priming at the quick connect. I tried spraying starter fluid into the intake and no luck. Just turned the engine over to tdc, lined up cam shaft and mark on head, then pulled the head and the pistons not at the top. In my defense I’m a mechanical engineering student and I set timing at like 4am between finals. I’ll set timing again, hopefully properly tmrw, and update the thread. Back on the note of fuel filters, are there 2? I saw a video from slavens racing about an inline filter at the quick disconnect. I don’t have one at this location, but that could be the previous owners fault or another 4am misjudgment. The other or main filter is in the tank correct?

Thanks for the suggestions, an electric problem seemed unlikely but I was being stubborn I suppose.
 
I pulled the head, set the piston at TDC, and reset clearance. It sounds a helluva better cranking and pops every couple of seconds. I tried starter fluid and that didn't work. The exhaust is getting warm now though.
 

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