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Confusion about parts Husaberg FS 650E 2002.

Joined Sep 2023
4 Posts | 0+
sweden
Okay, I blew my engine yesterday and are planning to tear the whole thing down. However, I have been searching but I don't have a clue where to find the correct quality parts so the engine down go bomb mode once again.

I heard in another thread that they removed counter balancers, Used different pistons, grinded the crank shaft and much more I'm not brave enough to do

So what parts brands should be used for most reliability, with piston, bearings, cam, etc.?


-Tobbe_Goose
 
you'll need to sort out if your bike is early 2002 model or late. Early has all different gears in the left cover and they often have the part numbers on them. The early ones have a brass bush to hold the clutch basket and there is no shoulder on the intermediate shaft for the intermediate gear to sit on.

there are dozens of upgrades to do to them but removing the balancer isn't one of them. If you believe that person go and get all your advice from them. I'm not sharing my advice with an idiot.

I'm the one that uses different pistons.

what went wrong?

Taffy
 
Sorry for late replay but i pulled apart my engine yesterday. Its an late 2002 model

Previous owner has uppgradera everyting acoring to the post "husabermotorcycle engine uppgrades" and he uses the crankshaft berings SKF 6206 ETN9. However, the left side bearing has exploded and resulted in piston skirts rubbningar on cylinder walls. I don't really know what piston i should put in as the options are limited. And the crankshaft bearing ill still probably use the upgraded SKF 6206 ETN9.
 

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That has had tremendous pressure....colossal. I would now go back a step and check that the crank is "true". Go to an engine reconditioner who presses cranks together and ask them to check it for 'trueness'. you want less than 0.002" (two thou) or 0.5mm run out at the spindle tips.

when you put it together again, have NO shims on the crank. none. then using measuring tools (i use a steel ruler across the ignition housing face and on top of that I rest my vernier gauge) measure the crank float with the crank assembled with the balancer on it. You'll have to use a copper hammer and round tube over the ends of the crank.

THEN smash the **** out of the tube one way. measure the cranks distance towards or away from the ignition area you're using as the measuring station. note it and smash the **** out of it the other way....HARD. the crank has to move through the bearings or take the bearings but one way or another you want 0.7mm minimum.

The trouble is, they never gave you more than 0.4mm on those early cranks and thus the enormous pressure on the bearings. DO YOU GET IT NOW?

That is why people like me went to roller bearings and 0.8-1mm float in the end and to do that we had to machine out the back wall of the place where the bearings go now. Basically you have to create width.

Anyway, if you're going on Faceache you'll have lots of experts to listen to. A fool and his money are easily parted.

Taffy
 
So I got my crank back, clutch side was 0.02mm of while the generator side was 0.00mm of so all is good.

I also have gone to my lokal SKF and ordered every singel bearing in the engin (only like 200$) so im waiting for pars then ill uppdaterad you further.
 
Wow, that bearing went bad in an ugly fashion. I've never owned a berg older than 2004, but I'd look into potentially replacing that bearing with a roller, if you can. Taffy would know more about that than me.
 
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Hmm perhaps. I know some machinists I could talk too, but witch roller Bearings is the best?
 
Don't start that war here again we have pages and pages of bitter argument over which MANUFACTURER (yes really. not the C rating, not polymide cage or steel. just the manufacturer!!!!!).

I sell what I sell.

I'm not saying any more. In business, I tried arguing, I tried getting ******* angry but I only lost business by arguing.

Taffy
 
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