Dream come true, sort of...

ihminen · Jun 14, 2023

Yes, that's pretty much what I have found out and explained. On the -98 FE 400 the flywheel nut is 15mm and in a hole, so normal ring spanner won't do. The marks on the fly wheel and crank case are these in the picture, I assume. Similar marks for the ignition and TDC. I'm away from the bike until next week, but yes, I'll do the valves again after closing the cover and this time properly when valves closed AND the cam-decomp not interfering (keeping the exhaust open). Btw I have a new favorite tool and I can measure the valve clearances fairly easily with a help of that: a small metal pike / "hook" that turns 90 degrees in the end. With that I can get the feeler gauge to right way.

Still need to find out how to do the ignition timing, but I think there's info about that around. And need that strobe and a puller.

Taffy · Jun 14, 2023

I thought that the timing mark on the cases was further down to the left and is a triangle.

Taffy

ihminen · Jun 22, 2023

The flywheel was not that tight at all and I got it out easily with a "home made puller". The stator looks good to me, but does it also look like not the original one? By the way, the -98 bike seems to be somehow odd, because no other year model has similar ignition AND carburetor as this one. The carb being PHM 38.
I finally also tested the resistances of the stator wires and the results were:
Yellow - Blue (also yellow, but with piece of blue tape as marking): 0.9 Ohm
Red - Black: 1.07 k Ohm
green - Black: 27.9 Ohm
So, is there the main reason for my bad starting, the resistance between the red and black wires? Should be 1.75 k Ohms, according to one of Taffy's posts. Does this mean the spark is weak under pressure while kick starting? I do have a spark, I know, at least when the plug is out.
Also, to the eye the timing seems to be rather late, so to me this should mean easier start, lower power.
I still need to get me that timing light. And perhaps a stator.

Taffy · Jun 23, 2023

where did you get the stator.

IHMHO, it will only produce a week spark like this. I've had this trouble with the ones that my supplier gives me. i get them with 1,200-1,300 ohms and I argue and argue with them.

Taffy

ihminen · Jun 24, 2023

Taffy said:
where did you get the stator.

IHMHO, it will only produce a week spark like this. I've had this trouble with the ones that my supplier gives me. i get them with 1,200-1,300 ohms and I argue and argue with them.

Taffy

It was in the bike when I bought it (as a poor starter). I've been reading your and other's comments about the stators 1. being the weak point (especially) in the pre-2000 bikes and 2. there being bad Chinese stators in the market that have about this much resistance (1k Ohm).
As I said you wrote in one of your comments that the resistance should be 1750 Ohms, but everything else says 3k Ohms. So: is the 1750 correct for the older type (up to -98) as this one is, or should they also be about 3k, or was the original 1750 and newer replacement 3k?

Rewinding must be the only way to fix a bad stator.. (Might just try that in the long dark winter, but not now.)

Taffy · Jun 24, 2023

the 1989-1998s stators want 1,750ohms red to black.
the 1999-2003s want 2,750-3,000ohms red to black.

That will be your problem.

Taffy

ihminen · Jun 29, 2023

I have now measured the voltages by kicking the pedal. I did't have a device that would show the max, but just a regular digital V-meter, so actual voltages could be and probably are higher. The results are: Red - black 18 V, green - black 1,5 V. And I tested the spark and I got a spark with 5 mm distance, but didn't get a spark with a distance of 6 mm. So I it seems my secondary voltage is less than 15 k Volts.
I have already sent Sparks a message about rewinding the stator and patiently waiting for his responce.

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Dream come true, sort of...

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