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2001 650 Counter balancer help

Joined Jul 2017
26 Posts | 4+
Norway, Bergen
Hi.

When my 2001 650 engine failed, the counter balancer took some damage. There was also pittings in some of the teeth, so I want to replace it when rebuilding the engine.

I bought a "new” used counter balancer that the seller said he think it was from a 2001, but he can’t tell for sure.
The only difference I can tell is that it have 2 bearings and the old have 1. Other than that they look the same, and I can’t see any difference in the teeth mesh. (Is it even possible to see any visual difference in the early vs late gear mesh profile?)

When I removed the bearings for replacing them, I see that the new balancer have a ring in between the bearings. The old balancer have no groove or ring. That made me wonder if this balancer is same or not, hopefully some of you guys in here can help me get along with this build 😀

Old balancer with bearing:
(Click on picture for hd)
9E47E7E2-FFCE-4C31-B376-4D2EDB7057D9.jpeg

New:
39C48A89-0E7E-454F-9D3E-479AC30F89C9.jpeg
0E044191-8F52-4E8C-ABA5-F6342796D007.jpeg
 
To determine if you have a early 01 build or a late 01/02 (from the workshop manual):

The transmission has been modified with a different tooth profile between 2001 and 2002. The easiest way to determine how an engine is built is to look at the counter balancers' drive shaft. The early shaft (left) has a straight surface and the newer (right) has a diameter change between the position for the timing spocket and the drive gear. Following gears are not interchangeable between 2001 and 2002/2003. Counterbalancer, balance drive shaft, drive gears onthe balancer drive shaft and crank shaft, and also the outer clutch basket. Counter balancers has also been subject to changes. Part from tooth profile the bearings has changed during the model year 2002. The left balancer is fitted with a single bearing and the right balancer has two bearings next to each other.

If you can get ahold of the balance drive shaft from the person you purchased the Counter balancer from you will be able to determine how the engine was built (which gear profile was used). Or send you some pictures. In 2001 Counterbalancer failure was common especially on the 650's. Husaberg issued an updated Counter balancer with double row bearings for the early engine builds. The CB came standard with double row bearings in 2002. Perhaps look up the part number for the updated 2001 doulble row balancer and see if there is one still available. Taffmeisters sells a pair of the Balancer bearings for a 2001-2003. These bearings were never sold seperately from Husaberg, you had to purchase the entire Counter balancer. I couldn't tell you by looking if you purchased an updated 01 balancer or a standard 02 balancer.
 
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I have asked the seller about the CB drive shaft but he can’t help me. He just sold me some parts he had laying around, not knowing what engine they belong to.

Here’s my Balancer drive shaft, as far as I can tell it’s the early type.
0B37B297-30D1-42A9-B64B-3C8466E872CC.jpeg
I bought double bearings from John prior.

So what you say is that if I had a 2001 and a 2002 balancer in my hand, I could
not tell any difference in the tooth profile by looking or measuring?
 
I also have this smaller type of CB. When comparing the 3, I can’t tell any difference in tooth profile.
48378435-E003-4F9C-B279-B17D76614CB3.jpeg
I took the gear on the drive shaft and lay it against the gear on the counter balancers. 100% alike
A3A1A03D-606E-4D17-87DA-E6BE04059940.jpeg
 
Try running the gears together if they mesh smoothly they should be the same profile if it feels rough they’re slightly different.
 
Yes I’ve done that and it feels smooth. The smaller CB feels rougher.

Should I use metal glue (green locktite) to the bearings when installing them in the CB or is that unnecessary? I have them in the freezer now
 
I wouldn't worry about any marks on any teeth. I'd use the same balancer again with a new 6905 C3 bearing in it and be done. let someone else have the worry.

what is FAR MORE IMPORTANT is to take the cases to an engineer and have .020" taken out of the back wall of the main bearing houses and convert your crank to roller mains with 0.8-1.0 axial float.

Taffy
 
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Reactions: Galanius and ned37
I wouldn't worry about any marks on any teeth. I'd use the same balancer again with a new 6905 C3 bearing in it and be done. let someone else have the worry.

what is FAR MORE IMPORTANT is to take the cases to an engineer and have .020" taken out of the back wall of the main bearing houses and convert your crank to roller mains with 0.8-1.0 axial float.

Taffy
What does that modification accomplish?
 
what roller mains over ball?

one lasts forewver and the other packs up anywhere between 2 weeks and 2 years later.....

cheers

Taffy
 
I wouldn't worry about any marks on any teeth. I'd use the same balancer again with a new 6905 C3 bearing in it and be done. let someone else have the worry.

what is FAR MORE IMPORTANT is to take the cases to an engineer and have .020" taken out of the back wall of the main bearing houses and convert your crank to roller mains with 0.8-1.0 axial float.

Taffy
There’s pittings halfway through some of the teeth. There’s no way I put this back in an engine that Im spending 2k on. My engine allready have rollers. I guess you put them in there when rebuilding this engine in 2012 or so? Do you know if you had 0,20 taken out of the cases or not back then?
 
i didn't put them in IMHO? I wasn't doing it back then. If I was i was a visionary!
there's nothing wrong with that balancer gear if all it is is pitting.

Taffy
 

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