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FE450 09 Clutch problems

Joined Feb 2009
11 Posts | 0+
Jindabyne, Australia
Hi,
I have recently purchased an 09 fe450 and am experiencing a clutch issue. I previously had a fe501 which I sold a little over 10yrs ago and am just getting back into riding.
The problem is that the clutch is dragging alot especially when cold. I have read alot of posts about re-bleeding the clutch and rebuilding the slave cylinder. I have bled the system a couple of times and feel like it is performing correctly. I have removed the clutch cover and the pressure plate moves about 2mm when the clutch lever is depressed. I noticed that there has been some rubbing on the pressure plate and inside of the clutch cover. I am guessing that this contact is not allowing the plates to separate enough and is causing my issue. The previous owner stated it has recently had new clutch plates fitted which looks to be true. Is there an overall clutch pack thickness measurement I should have? I cannot see any hot spots on the plates indicating they are warped. Could it be possible an incorrect clutch plate assy has been fitted that is to thick? Here's a couple of pics to show the wear.
Thanks in advance.
 

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I have a 2011 FE390, virtually the same setup. My clutch drags. My dealer and personal friend, who is a avid high-end rider, had TWO of these. He told me that they just do that a bit. Both of his did and he ignored it and advised me to do the same. This is NOT like any other bike I've ever owned. (There are a few other hydraulic clutch bikes that do so.) My solution: start the bike and let it warm up for 2 or 3 mins before riding (hot oil lets the clutch drag less - OR - if I'm in a hurry, point the bike in the desired direction while in neutral, start the engine, open the throttle a bit to avoid stalling, put it in low gear, then let out the clutch and take off! I CAN use the front brake while I put it I low gear to hold the bike back. Yes the clutch drags a bit, so I only do that for 3 or 4 seconds if necessary. A related problems is putting the bike in NEUTRAL while the engine is running. The 3 friends I have with 70 degree Husabergs all have this problem. Usually we simply kill the engine, the put it in neutral if it is an issue. When starting, we PUT THE BIKE IN NEUTRAL before starting, then proceeds as above. This may sound strange, but you get used to it. I LOVE the 70 degree Berg, but they do have their quirks. Good luck and welcome to the 70 degree club!!! - HusaGeezer
 
Thanks HusaGeezer for the reply and the welcome.
Thanks for info regarding the dragging. This seems to drag that much it won't go into 1st gear from neutral when the bike is standing still. I need to have the bike rolling forward for any chance to get it into first without stalling. When moving in first pulling the clutch in has bugger all effect and the bike will stall if I brake to a stop.
I will get a new oring for the slave and give it another bleed however my biggest concern is the rubbing on both the pressure plate and the inside of the clutch cover.
The previous owner said this issue has started after the new clutch was fitted.
Is the 2mm movement using the clutch lever with the clutch cover off enough to release the plates?
Looking forward to getting this thing sorted and be back riding.
 
I bought a cheapy billet lever and put a longer span adjuster bolt in it to get more stroke- problem gone!
I had previously done everything, used about a litre of ATF bleeding, even tried a Oberon slave- nothing else worked.
Rik
 
if you are looking for more stroke, why not go from 9.5 to 10 or even 10.5mm piston magura hydraulic clutch?

when I first started doing spares for these, we thought 10.5 WAS the standard stroke because that was the size of the kits we were selling.

just an idea?

Taffy
 
That sounds like a good plan. My biggest concern is the wear already on the pressure plate and internal of clutch cover (pics on original post).
Guess I'll try it and see if wear/rubbing becomes worse.
 
well there's two ways of getting more stroke. one is to have more stroke and presumably from what you say; the clutch pressure plate hits the inside of the outside clutch cover (I didn't know it did but that is what you are saying)

or

start with everything nearer the gearbox so that you can achieve the full stroke. that means getting the drum down nearer to the basket or drum and basket lower.

regards

Taffy
 
Thanks Taffy much appreciated.
Does 2mm of extension on the clutch seem like the appropriate amount or should it be more?
 
yes it does sound right, and normally more isn't needed. you need to check the steels on a mirror, window pane or an engineeers surface plate. tap them on the edge and try make them 'ping up' the bent ones ping up and the flat ones stay.

cheers

Taffy
 

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