FE450 2010 problems. Engine stalling, help desirable

CorH · May 14, 2021

Dear members,

I'm having trouble with my 2010 Husaberg FE450.
I've got the bike for a couple of months now but I'm facing some problems I can't solve...
It all started after I washed the bike. The bike started to stall and I've had difficulties to start it again. After I dried the air filter, the bike drove great, for a while.
After a short period of time, the bike began to develop missfires and won't idle anymore. This occurred when the bike was warm.

I started searching on fora and my symptoms matched the symptoms of a dying fuel pump, a common failure. So I installed a new one, together with new in-tank fuel filters. Unfortunutely, this didn't solve the problem.
After that, I've tried the following things:

New iridium spark plug.
New spark cap.
New spark lead.
Cleaned the injector, while opening it with a 9v battery.
Removed the small filter inside the injector.
Checked for a small inline fuel filter, my bike didn't have one.
Re-calibrated the TPS using a multimeter. 0.64v when closed.
Cleaned the fuelline coming from the tank, together with the coupling.
Cleaned the fuel rail.
Cleaned the air temperature sensor.
New airfilter.

None of this solved the problem unfortunately. The bike keeps stalling and it sounds like it floods when I twist the throttle fast. The bike backfires and cuts out after I do this.
Is there someting I'm overlooking?
Any help or suggestion is highly appreciated!

Kind regards,

Corné

Taffy · May 15, 2021

a leak in the pressure pipe from the fuel pump. this can deposit the fuel it just picked up BACK in the fuel. you can physically adjust the idle by hand. maybe the idle is just simply too low?

just ideas

Taffy

CorH · May 15, 2021

Hi Taffy,

Thankyou for your input. I'm going to check the fuel line which sits in between the fuelfilter and the exit part of the fuelpump assembly. I allready replaced the one that goes from the actual pump to the filter for a rubber one. Thats the line shown in the picture, the fuel filter is replaced aswell.

I also tried to adjust the idle speed. Unfortunately, this did not solve the poor running problem.

Any further suggestions are more than welcome.

Kind regards,
Corné

CorH · May 16, 2021

Changed the other fuelline aswell, without result. The bike keeps dying on WOT and when you quickly twist the throttle. It also backfires while doing this. I’ve also disconnected the temperature sensor and shorted it when the bike was warm, this made no difference and it only made the warning turn light on.

I’m running out of ideas and I was wondering if anyone has a suggestion what could cause these problems. Thanks in advance!

Kind regards,
Corné

Taffy · May 17, 2021

get a properly reconditioned injector now. yes, a home-clean is Ok at the beginning but if no cure then you must do this.

Taffy

CorH · May 18, 2021

I've ordered a new injector, I will post the results when I've installed the part.

CorH · Jun 27, 2021

I've changed the injector for a brand new one, still no results...
The bike keeps bogging at WOT and even stalls sometimes.
The bike also "floods" when I quickly twist the throttle and then it dies again.

I'm running out of ideas. Does anyone has a suggestion what could solve these problems?

Thanks in advance.

Kind regards,

Cor

rikschipp · Jun 27, 2021

Maybe weak spark?

Here's a long shot, seems you've covered the fuel side, but if you have weak spark it will show up more at high load- quick throttle opening and/ or WFO.

Make sure ignition coil is earthed correctly- have seen loose bolts or when frame has been painted make the earth less than perfect. Make sure it's clean metal underneath coil mounts. Maybe check coil resistance specs while you're there.

Rik

CorH · Jun 28, 2021

rikschipp said:
Here's a long shot, seems you've covered the fuel side, but if you have weak spark it will show up more at high load- quick throttle opening and/ or WFO.

Make sure ignition coil is earthed correctly- have seen loose bolts or when frame has been painted make the earth less than perfect. Make sure it's clean metal underneath coil mounts. Maybe check coil resistance specs while you're there.

Rik

Hi Rik,

Thanks for your tips. I've sanded down the coil earths, there was a lot of corrosion on these surfaces. I've also checked the coil's resistance. The manual says it needs to be in between 0.425 and 0.575 ohm. Mine was 0.9 / 1.0 ohm.
To much resistance results in a weak spark, just like you said.

I'm trying to borrow an other coil from a friend so I can test it out. I will let you know what the results are. Again thanks for your input!

Kind regards,

Corné

Ook Peter · Jul 3, 2021

If that doesn’t help, since you wrote you washed the bike, check for water in the tank.

Tinomazz64 · Jul 11, 2021

I'm hoping that you post whether any of this helped your situation. I have a 2010 390 with the subframe tank and the green fuel line ruptured along with a shut off valve that melted from exhaust heat. I replaced the fuel line and discarded the shut off valve as I felt there was really no need for it. Now the bike doesn't want to idle and seems starved for fuel at mid-WOT. I can't get the bike above 70 mph. Similar symptoms to yours and stumped as to what I may have done wrong. How many fuel filters should there be along the fuel route? It almost feels like it may have a clogged filter?

CorH · Jul 13, 2021

rikschipp said:
Here's a long shot, seems you've covered the fuel side, but if you have weak spark it will show up more at high load- quick throttle opening and/ or WFO.

Make sure ignition coil is earthed correctly- have seen loose bolts or when frame has been painted make the earth less than perfect. Make sure it's clean metal underneath coil mounts. Maybe check coil resistance specs while you're there.

Rik

Hi All,

I've cleaned the coil earths and replaced the coil for a new one. Still no results... The bike keeps stalling when I twist the throttle. I've also disconnected the MAP sensor but this didn't help either. I've made 2 videos about the problem.

Anymore suggestions are more than welcome!

Kind regards,

Corné

Rainerio · Jul 13, 2021

Shot in the dark. The throttle body has a cold start knob in is normal out is cold start. Did you check the earth by the battery it’s at the frame. Maybe you should try a module off a other bike. Good Luck

cambo · Jul 15, 2021

Check the resistance of the the spark plug cap you mentioned you changed it but it’s good to check the resistance. Mine had a similar stall out issue

CorH · Jul 18, 2021

Rainerio said:
Shot in the dark. The throttle body has a cold start knob in is normal out is cold start. Did you check the earth by the battery it’s at the frame. Maybe you should try a module off a other bike. Good Luck

Hi Rainerio,

I've checked the cold start knob but this didn't solve the problem.
I've also sanded down one earth point near the battery, how many are there?
Unfortunately I don't know where I could borrow an other module...

Kind regards,

Cor

CorH · Jul 18, 2021

cambo said:
Check the resistance of the the spark plug cap you mentioned you changed it but it’s good to check the resistance. Mine had a similar stall out issue

Hi Cambo,

I will check it and post the result, thanks for the tip!

Kind regards,

Cor

CorH · Jul 19, 2021

Hi all,

I've checked the MAP sensor for any faults but it seems to work as it should. But I've discovered something else.
The sparkplug does not spark when you fully twist the throttle!
It does spark normaly but the spark cuts out as soon as you fully twist the throttle. I've checked the values of the TPS but these where stable, even when the throttle was fully open.
Does anyone has any thoughts on this?
Please let me know!

Kind regards,

Cor

Taffy · Jul 20, 2021

well something is either not creating the spark = the coil

or it is breaking the spark down; the plug, the plug cap, the HT lead.

these are my thoughts on it.

there's the small possibility the mains are going and the pulse coils are too far away from the flywheel at the moment that you want a spark?

regards

Taffy

rikschipp · Jul 20, 2021

Sounds like the TPS could be faulty? It's just a rheostat, check that as you open the throttle, the voltage goes down smoothly. If it jumps around or drops off it's probably dodgy. That does not explain spark issue, though...
Check all connectors to tip sensor, manifold pessure sensor, and especially the big connector into the ECU- make sure it's spotlessly clean, no corrosion or even dust, can cause all sorts of intermittent problems.

Rik

CorH · Aug 23, 2021

Fixed!

Hi all,

I've finaly fixed the mighty Husaberg!
After checking the timing, I noticed that de spark plug was cracked.
I've also cleaned a couple connectors which are sitting underneath the tank. These connectors came from the stator and were very dirty. Plenty of dirt and mud.
I've reïnstalled the old spark plug (left one) and cleaned the connectors. This did the trick. No more bogging, no more stalling, just pure fun. The Berg runs like new. It ought to be since most parts are new

Thanks for all the tips.

Kind regards,

Cor

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