The Great £200 Husaberg adventure

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ksithumper

Joined
Sep 16, 2016
Messages
27
Location
UK
My buddy recently bought a large quantity of Husqvarna spares, which when we sorted it out included (most of) a 2005 Husaberg... after I helped him with transport, storage and beers it has now ended up in my garage for the exorbitant sum of £200 (that is about Euro230 or US$260 ).
It is not pretty, but complete except plastics.

Bargain or money pit? Rebuild it or bury it? Decisions, decisions...

Well, let's go on an adventure. After all, what can possibly go wrong? :):)
 
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Step 1 was encouraging. An Internet check based on the number plate says that, apparently, it is not stolen etc. Also the engine number is correct for the registration number. It was registered in late 2004, which makes sense for a 2005 model.

Step 2 involved sending the authorities £25, requesting a duplicate vehicle registration document. (Hmmm... I just increased the cost by over 10% !! :p ).

Enough paperwork, tomorrow we should take a look at the actual bike....
 
You've gotta build it now it's registered!

I may be able to help with plastics and bits too when you're ready.

Carl.
 
Ok, so I drained the oil and this came out - looks horrible, but is actually brown not black, no 'bits' in it, not smelling burned and it still had good film strength. It is old oil, but good quality oil.
 

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The sump plug was bad news - at first sight I assumed flakes from the main bearings. Actually it is all fine metal dust, probably from the clutch plates. The magnet makes them line up (just like iron filings on a piece of paper held over a magnet).

Oil screen - totally clean, no bits. Oil filter and gallery also spotless. Things are looking better!

Off with the clutch side cover and everything appears fine. Clutch fingers look unworn. Zero debris inside the bottom of the cases
Water pump area has no corrosion/silt/rust/small animals nesting.

Crank has no apparent radial play(but the drive gear also stops that - I need to check the ignition side).
Crank end float feels like less than 1mm, I need to check properly with the dial gauge.

Valve clearances are correct, haven't yet gone further 'up top'.

It's not looking too bad at present? Any comments from the experts?
 

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Can anyone guide me on the cam bearings -I know they are 6201-2rs, but should they be C3 clearance, or standard? thanks!
 
ksithumper said:
Can anyone guide me on the cam bearings -I know they are 6201-2rs, but should they be C3 clearance, or standard? thanks!
Click to expand...

Not sure of the answer, but have you checked the manuals? They're on the site as well as collected on Google Drive, see my sig!
 
The frame is not damaged - the usual paint rubs, but nothing too bad. A quick new coat of blue paint and it is looking good.
Back to the engine now, and specifically Taffy's new decompressor spring. When installed normally it has no preload, so I assume it needs to be pre-wound 1 turn. That isn't easy as it is very fiddly. . Am I missing something ?
Thanks in advance for the guidance!
 
With preload, I tested the spring by holding the cam in my milling machine and increasing the speed until the decomp moved. It starts to open at about 360rpm (720rpm crank speed) which sounds fine as I guess idle will be 1200rpm+.

Hopefully I can get the engine back together this weekend.
 
ksithumper said:
With preload, I tested the spring by holding the cam in my milling machine and increasing the speed until the decomp moved. It starts to open at about 360rpm (720rpm crank speed) which sounds fine as I guess idle will be 1200rpm+.

Hopefully I can get the engine back together this weekend.
Click to expand...

I might be missing something here but shouldn't that decomp be only moving at higher revs than max cranking speed? Otherwise it wouldn't be working right?

Damo
 
i have a video of the fitment on my Facebook page. can't say fairer than that! sharing the l-u-r-v-e!!!

regards

Taffy
 
Damo W said:
I might be missing something here but shouldn't that decomp be only moving at higher revs than max cranking speed? Otherwise it wouldn't be working right?

Damo
Click to expand...

The decomp works when the engine is below idle so the starter can turn the cylinder around due to lower comp. As soon as the engine starts the weight is flung outwards disabling the decomp.
 
jon andersson said:
The decomp works when the engine is below idle so the starter can turn the cylinder around due to lower comp. As soon as the engine starts the weight is flung outwards disabling the decomp.
Click to expand...

Indeed, I was just trying to deliver it diplomatically. :)

Damo
 
Damo W said:
I might be missing something here but shouldn't that decomp be only moving at higher revs than max cranking speed? Otherwise it wouldn't be working right?

Damo
Click to expand...

Sorry Damo, I didn't explain that very well!
The decomp starts to close at 360 camshaft rpm, which is 720 crankSHAFT rpm. That is good, because it is well below idle, but well above the likely starter motor crankING speed.
 
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