The technical adventures of Dr_C
- Thread starter Dr_C
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- adventures drc technical
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Thanks, Spanner!
The premiere is the weekend around May 22 in Finland. It is too far, takes too much time and money to go there. I will concentrate on nearby practises instead. First shake down is on Sunday.
I'm securing the right hand side steel sleeve axially with two M5 screws, threaded in the steel flange. I bored a hole from the oil "pocket" on the upper side behind the flange, down to the middle of the bearing, to get some more lubrication.
Skickat från min sk smartphone med pilligt tangentbord och irriterande spellcheck.
The premiere is the weekend around May 22 in Finland. It is too far, takes too much time and money to go there. I will concentrate on nearby practises instead. First shake down is on Sunday.
I'm securing the right hand side steel sleeve axially with two M5 screws, threaded in the steel flange. I bored a hole from the oil "pocket" on the upper side behind the flange, down to the middle of the bearing, to get some more lubrication.
Skickat från min sk smartphone med pilligt tangentbord och irriterande spellcheck.
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I haven't uploaded any videos for a long time, but here is one on the main bearing topic!
https://youtu.be/6N_hT1biNiQ
I'm still getting coolant into the oil. I Have decided to leak test with hot and pressurised water with a fluorescent substance (pyranine). So the tools are at hand:
Drill powered pump
Hose
Valve
PyraGreen (ridiculously expensive)
UV-lamp
Stainless kitchen pot
Heating stowe
Let the war on coolant leakage begin!
Skickat från min sk smartphone med pilligt tangentbord och irriterande spellcheck.
https://youtu.be/6N_hT1biNiQ
I'm still getting coolant into the oil. I Have decided to leak test with hot and pressurised water with a fluorescent substance (pyranine). So the tools are at hand:
Drill powered pump
Hose
Valve
PyraGreen (ridiculously expensive)
UV-lamp
Stainless kitchen pot
Heating stowe
Let the war on coolant leakage begin!
Skickat från min sk smartphone med pilligt tangentbord och irriterande spellcheck.
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Making the coffee for my high-maintenance girlfriend this morning, I giggled quietly at the ball bearing which was "absolutely not satisfied with such treatment".
(I'm kidding, I can't - she's great - but it got a laugh out of me nonetheless.)
(I'm kidding, I can't - she's great - but it got a laugh out of me nonetheless.)
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Thanks, Gery!
The machining was done in a CNC-mill. My machinist has a numerical measuring tool that feeds measurements into the control system. Based on that the OEM location of the bearing seats were good enough, the center was used for the larger seats. The tolerance between steel sleeves and cases and between steel sleeves and bearings, were calculated with the FE-method.
Skickat från min sk smartphone med pilligt tangentbord och irriterande spellcheck.
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Here's a documentary on the war on leaky cases:
https://youtu.be/dvYYIg6GVzk
I'm currently suspecting the steel cylinder liner being a tad too large.
https://youtu.be/dvYYIg6GVzk
I'm currently suspecting the steel cylinder liner being a tad too large.
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- south east WA Australia
Or maybe if it's anything like mine ......
MLS
Multiple leaking system
MLS
Multiple leaking system
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"Fun" with fluorenscent cooling water and uv-light!
It leaks between the cylinder deck and the spacer. Nothing leaks down from the water jacket! It was much easier to check now with a cheap usb-endoscope connected to my smartphone. Today I will get the cylinder head decked, to see what that can improve!
It leaks between the cylinder deck and the spacer. Nothing leaks down from the water jacket! It was much easier to check now with a cheap usb-endoscope connected to my smartphone. Today I will get the cylinder head decked, to see what that can improve!
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- Ely, England
so what did you use to seal between the packer and the top of the old cases? they have a vertical split and can be expected to be ever-so-slightly uneven.
the headgasket gets to seal between a flat head and a flat packer.
regards
Taffy
the headgasket gets to seal between a flat head and a flat packer.
regards
Taffy
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ThreeBond 1194. At the place of the leak the sealing surface is thin/short and far away from the bolts... I think this can be cured with a more "dedicated" use of bond. We'll see!
Skickat från min sk smartphone med pilligt tangentbord och irriterande spellcheck.
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I am learning from your mistakes here! I think that there's the potetial for a papergasket. all these years of talks on crushed copper HGs and fire rings etc and here we have a situation where the silicon wants to be squeezed out. if silicon is going to get 'the squeeze' each time then a paper gasket is required. the rocker cover only gets a light squeeze in many places.
there must be plenty of advice around from these manufacturers. by the way, that front left corner has been a bit of a weakness in the past with the standard bike.
Taffy
there must be plenty of advice around from these manufacturers. by the way, that front left corner has been a bit of a weakness in the past with the standard bike.
Taffy
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Might work Taffy.
My 675 head leaks water to the outside a bit, none seems
to be getting into the oil. (13.5:1 comp
) I have a wire ring
and copper gasket,
Next time I will have a bit less of the ring
sticking up as the head bolts are not able to pull it down
completely .
A good thing with the copper gasket is it can be reused.
Mine about 6 times so far and it is getting better with each use.
Copper also make a thermal bridge between the head and the block
which helps cooling a lot.
I have been running with a 2.0bar radiator cap perhaps I will go
back to std as the extra pressure wont help things to seal.
So I am not to concerned, just add some leak sealer
and keep an eye on the water level.
Good luck on the weekend DrC
My 675 head leaks water to the outside a bit, none seems
to be getting into the oil. (13.5:1 comp
) I have a wire ringand copper gasket,
Next time I will have a bit less of the ring
sticking up as the head bolts are not able to pull it down
completely .
A good thing with the copper gasket is it can be reused.
Mine about 6 times so far and it is getting better with each use.
Copper also make a thermal bridge between the head and the block
which helps cooling a lot.
I have been running with a 2.0bar radiator cap perhaps I will go
back to std as the extra pressure wont help things to seal.
So I am not to concerned, just add some leak sealer
and keep an eye on the water level.
Good luck on the weekend DrC
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 3,871
- Location
- south east WA Australia
Ah the head packer
Could try 1207b. If I need it thick I Don't tighten immediately just finger tight leave overnight then tighten it
1207 b is firecracker crazy good stuff
Could try 1207b. If I need it thick I Don't tighten immediately just finger tight leave overnight then tighten it
1207 b is firecracker crazy good stuff
Last edited:
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