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Not for myself. I don't know anything about any reoccurring problems or bottlenecks in producing more power in the 70deg engine. I know Folan made a stroker kit for sidecar application...
The technical adventures of Dr_C
- Thread starter Dr_C
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- adventures drc technical
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100% cotton thread is from now on a crucial part in my RST engine setup! Well, at least until new improved head gaskets arrive.
Correct thickness, quality and density of thread AND goo on all the right places is required to pass the pressure test. Not very good maintainability...
Correct thickness, quality and density of thread AND goo on all the right places is required to pass the pressure test. Not very good maintainability...
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I feel your pain there Dr_C !
I have a big box full of gaskets of various construction MLS, fiber, solid copper, SCE technology .. they are all crap
eventually i took your advice and put a wire into the top of the liner and ran a 4mm wide copper ring on top of the wire for a fire ring.
the rest of the sealing tasks (water and oil) are done by a fibre gasket, the copper is 1.2mm sheet and the rest of the gasket compresses down to 0.8mm.
for this to work with the oem gasket fibre (1.2mm compressed) I think i would use 1.5mm thick copper
I have a big box full of gaskets of various construction MLS, fiber, solid copper, SCE technology .. they are all crap
eventually i took your advice and put a wire into the top of the liner and ran a 4mm wide copper ring on top of the wire for a fire ring.
the rest of the sealing tasks (water and oil) are done by a fibre gasket, the copper is 1.2mm sheet and the rest of the gasket compresses down to 0.8mm.
for this to work with the oem gasket fibre (1.2mm compressed) I think i would use 1.5mm thick copper
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I have just placed an order on 10 custom fibre gaskets from Cometic. My problem is that I cannot test just outside my door. I have to find a track event (takes many weeks sometimes) and pay good money for what might turn out to be a 4 lap practise...
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ah bummer yes i forget how it is in europe
maybe with some ingenuity can you test inside ?
Dr_C builds his own water braked dyno/berg powered heated coffee urn
maybe with some ingenuity can you test inside ?
Dr_C builds his own water braked dyno/berg powered heated coffee urn
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LOL! Thanks, Bushie, for putting this smile on my face!ah bummer yes i forget how it is in europe
maybe with some ingenuity can you test inside ?
Dr_C builds his own water braked dyno/berg powered heated coffee urn
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No yet. I'll try it without a wire ring first. I also have fibre gaskets on their way from Cometic, so I don't want to cut a groove in the liner unless I have to. I used a steel wire on my old Yamaha, together with a copper gasket. I made the wire stick 0,08-0,10mm above the deck, and it was appr. 1,0mm diameter. I cut the ends to meet with an angle (not just a square cut), to help sealing.
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Honing a Nikasil cylinder will not make you and your machinist best friends...I think I made mine about 0.2mm, leaked straight away,
Think I will anneal the gasket and try again.
Water and nikasil don`t mix to well, have to send the
cylinder for honing as the crosshatch disappeared almost
instantaneously.
Annealing the copper gasket is necessary to do before every assembly. Sometimes it also needs retightening after first time the engine has been hot, and maybe even after the second time. Drag racers use external water heating and pump to simulate running conditions and make it possible to do the retightening routine in the workshop, not the pits.
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