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Aftermarket fuel pump

I bought this one:

New Intank 30mm Fuel Pump 2009 2013 Husaberg KTM 390 450 570 81207088011 | eBay

I thought about just pulling the pump out of the hose but it was impossible, at the end I even broke the plug of my old pump.

So then I had to replace the tube with one of the tube then sent with the pump and use the 2 corrugated flex. seems ok so far, will give some feedback after I test it.

In the pictures you can see how the original tube looked like, and how the new one looks like. On the last picture the cast for the 70 degree tank is mounted
 

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I seem to recall that there is a trick/procedure for priming the fuel pump after a swap. Anybody know what that is? I've diagnosed and hopefully fixed my problem (hose supplied with CA Cycleworks fuel pump with barbed nipple blew off the nipple because the hose was slightly too large), but want to do the restart in a problem-free fashion.
 
I just cranked mine over until it started, also get remove the supplied hose and find yourself some quality in tank fuel hose, the hoses that come with the pumps are rubbish and will fail within a few hours.
 
Thanks, Smash.
I bought 3 feet of 220 psi reinforced high pressure fuel line to replace the problem line supplied with the CA Cycleworks pump.
Via another source I was told to turn on the key and let the pump run without hitting the start button. Let it cycle off, and repeat.
Does that sound right?
 
If there is a key and the pump primes without pushing the starter, then that's the better method! the starter button "trick" mentioned in the pther thread is needed only on bikes without a key or other way to trigger the pump priming
 
hi all, owner of 2010 390,
at 200 hours replaced my fuel pump, Mahle inline filter, intank hoses.
pump used is an aftermarket part of Yamaha Crypton 135 or Piaggio Beverlly 250, highly available here in Greece.
Tested for the first time in 60km single trail enduro ride.
Excellent results during the ride, elevation from 950m to 2000m.
Never had an issue with engine flow.
also bike starts always with the first push of the button, when hot still needs a touch of throttle most times
will keep you updated
 
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hi all, so just went through the fuel pump saga.

i replaces with a CA one, and got it sealed up well
with some FI hose clamps and quality fuel line.

put it back on the bike, no fuel, and connected up to make sure the fuel pump
would turn on..check

the. put some fuel in and out everything back together. turned it off and on a couple times to prime it well, went to cold start it and nothing. tried a few times, nothing

then quick shot of starting fluid and fired right up, went and road it 20 miles. turned it off for about 20 minutes, got back on, started right up.

sat overnight and went to cold start it this morning and just wouldn't turn over.

on a side, my batter did sound a bit weak. but i think that's only wishful thinking that that is the problem.

any thoughts? it definitely primes when i turn the key, i can feel the line tense up. i put in an aftermarket fuel filter from autozone...any way that could be restricting fuel on cold start?? ugh, just want it to work and want to go ride...

any thoughts greatly appreciated, yet another time i'll have to pull the tank. which i suppose it better than the engine which i just pulled to repair my stripped oil drain with a timesert (which worked perfectly btw!).

Best,
 
How cold is it? If it's chilly you could try to pull the choke (the black wheel on the right side of the throttle body where you adjust the idle, when you pull it you engage the choke for cold start).
 
not cold at all, in my garage where it's always been and started every time in the past. i also tried pulling the choke/rpm dial out...no luck.

so frustrating. just went on myo CA cycleworks website and looks like they're selling a new and improved fuel pump with fuel line and hose clamps, and a barbed tip...maybe i'll spring for that and hopefully they've solved some of the problems...still doesn't explain why mine isn't working... unless it's because there is a small kink in the tank with the aftermarket fuel line (rigid) and harder to stuff in there. but that wouldn't explain why when hot it rides perfectly and why it's only on cold start.

i'll try charging my ballistic battery up again as well, in the very small likelyhood it's the culprit.

really appreciate the fast response, would love to get this solved and back on the bike...which i much prefer to being "in" the bike :)
 
The question is what differs from cold/warm. As it starts with starter fluid one can assume all it need is fuel/extra fuel. Maybe it runs lean so when warm it is enough it works but when cold it needs that extra fuel to get enough vapour to start?

Check the tps? If it is whacked out of position it might not give enough. But I assume minimum/closed throttle should be adjusted for start? Maybe the injector doesnt give enough for cold start but when warm it is enough. Which could indicate not enough pressure/flow. I dont know the involvement of the temp sensor in the airbox, maybe check that connection(corrosion what not).
 
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thank you for the ideas. i definitely don't think it's the temp sensor.

i'll check the tps, but that's never given me an issue.

the only thing i've really fussed with lately is the fuel pump...but i really thought i did a good job gatting the CA cycleworks pump setup in there and tightened to handle full pressure.

guess i'll have to break it down and see again. my only thought is that maybe the fuel filter i put in is too restrictive at cold start and i should go back to the oem Mehle...or maybe the fuel line in there isn't functioning as well as the OEM stuff...looks like CA Cycleworks is actually selling there new kits with fuel like that looks a lot like OEM.
 
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fingers tightly crossed

I went into the garage today to start the bike, and pretty much killed the battery entirely, so I hooked it up to the trickle, it's been on it for about an hour and a half now, bike was dead cold and I went to start it and it fired right up. now there were maybe some remnants of starter fluid that I sprayed on it this morning, but I can't imagine the ether would've stuck around for two hours

again, fingers tightly crossed that this was in fact the problem, will report back if anyone is interested

thanks again for the community for all the help and responses
 
really hard to tell what's causing the issues, battery does seem week, will test with a multimeter when i have a check, but still feel like it's haveing trouble turning over. quick shot of starter fluid and it immediately kicks on even with the weak battery.

i ordered a mahle fuel filter to try and swap out. read up a bit on testing the tps which i'll do with the multimeter as well, but still seems like it's a fueling issue.

so annoying

thoughts still welcome
 
Never had your problem but reading here UHE. If you crashed (on dirt bike who hasn't) your TPS can go out of adjustment. If you someone with same bike you switch tanks or other parts easy to change.
 
So "Kind Chris" at CA Cycleworks got back to me in a SNAP and he's sending me their new and improved pump for the Husaberg...with the new fuel lines they're pairing with it and improved hose clamps: Ca Cycleworks Fuel Pump for KTM/Husaberg/Husqvarna [Choice of Hose Length] | ca-cycleworks.com

He said it's hard to diagnose any one issue in particular sometimes so best to swap out the pump and see if that solves it. Fingers crossed again, and can't say enough good things about the team at CA Cycleworks.

He ended by saying "we just to help people get back on their bikes".

great people, great community..will report back once i get the part and swap it out.
 
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hey everyone, just wanted to say thank you for all of the advice, and wanted to close the loop on the issues I was having

I ordered a new battery from ballistic, because I needed one, and also because I thought the battery i had (also ballistic) was losing it's cranking power. I also was wishfully thinking that the starting issue I was having at that point was battery related. I put the new battery in, and it definitely cranked harder, and cranked enough to get the bike to turn over, but it required a lot of time, much more than usual.

so I removed the tank one more time, and replaced the older CA cycleworks pump and fuel lines that they supplied with their new kit. The fuel line they now provide is identical to the OEM, and the hose clamps are super burly as well and a perfect fit. Additionally the new fuel pump has a barbed tip. with all the new equipment, I was able to get things sealed up in a way that was much more confidence inspiring. I also drilled two small holes on either side of the plastic housing that holds the fuel pump, and used safety wire to secure it all together, fearing it could easily come undone with just the stock clips and then be floating around my tank

also, CA cycleworks now provides a locking washer for the bottom of the fuel pump that secures the coarse filter, this one actually secures tightly to the post on the fuel pump unlike the previous one i had and the oem one i destroyed while removing the first time. All of this is to say that the new cycle works kit is TOP NOTCH

I put the bike all back together, and cycled it on a couple times to prime the line. Immediately I noticed a much stronger sound from the fuel pump. The bike was cold, and I hit the starter for no more than 1.5 seconds and bike roared to a start

Quick fist pump, and I went for a 10 mile ride. Everything feels awesome.

just want to thank Chris and CA Cycleworks again, they were so responsive and stood by their product...awesome guy! also just want to leave this note for anybody dealing with similar issues on a Husaberg, or related bike with a similar fuel pump issue (I know the Ducati's use this one as well)

happy riding
 
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In italy runs a lot of scooter. We change the original product with a commercial pump fitted on Yamaha TMAX. We pay this about 65Euro.
 
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