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Back firing through exaust when COLD starting...08 FE450

L

LadyBerg

Joined Dec 2009
274 Posts | 21+
Skidaway Island GA
Ok, just so that y'all know I DID go through the owners doc, previous posts, etc. before starting this topic.

When cold starting (below 30 degrees hey I live in MN!!) I have a loud scary back fire through the exhaust when using the e button. If I push on with the starter and twist the throttle I can get it started but I know that's not right and don't want to risk damge, so I need some advice please.

I have synthetic oil in (10W50 Amsoil) and would like to change it to 5W if I can get it started :evil:
Plug good, compression good, valves checked (I set them this fall), spark good, fuel 91 with Seafoam, I use the de comp lever to find TDC then give it a good kick as best I can I'm on the short lite weight side since I'm a chick with a Husaberg!! It does turn over great with the e start but I give it a break after a while and when it starts Backfiring 8O I do clear out the spent fuel in begining with de comp lever in and clutch in.

What Am I doing wrong? FYI I NEVER have trouble starting it off the e button in milder weather and it runs awesome, no bog, no backfiring etc. Also notice that the clutch drags when it's this cold and when I try to break things loose but putting in 2nd and bumping it the rear wheel just skids.
 
Dunno about the backfiring, but probably just a gutfull of fuel. I know my Bergs with 15/40 are a pain to kick over below about 8 deg c, ie mid high 30s f. I try and park them in the sun, or by the fire to get some heat in them before kicking them in these conditions. I've also put a fan heater on them in the shed to warm the sump up. Thinner oil is the go I feel. And use of the button will result in a mechanical problem in these conditions I reckon.

You could do an oil change cold, just let it drain overnight and then put the thinner stuff in, then do another change normally later.

I can't recommend a thinner oil, but there are plenty here who can.

Steve
 
In cold weather gasolines use a higher vapor pressure blend (winter blend) to help atomize the fuel. You may want to research some of the available racing fuels in your area and find out which one has the highest vapor pressure comparing that to the pump gasoline vapor pressure.

In summer a high vapor pressure fuel would cause vapor lock and conversely a low vapor pressure fuel will cause difficult starting in the winter by flooding the engine with wet gas.

Winter gasoline blends are phased in as the weather gets cooler. You may benefit from just obtaining some fresh and latest winter blend gas from a high volume gas station.
 
when i had my '04 450, i would have to readjust the pilot fuel screw about a half to 3/4 turn out (richer) in the cold and back the other way when it warmed up. out here in the winter, that could be week to week. pretty much applies to my other bikes as well.
 
Husabutt, The bike has winter blend in it now (I used to work for Conoco ages ago). We start winter blends early since it's always so COLD here in the Northland. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to drain gas and dump in fresh yummy gas. I could put the old gas in the ATV's they burn anything and with FI they always start! :)

Ned, I'll check on my pilot jet setting...does this mean I'll have to pull the carb?

Thanks guys for the help, Colleen the Husaberg Lady 8)
 
Ned37, Do you mean the FUEL MIXTURE SCREW, next to the idle speed knurled knob? That was my next check to see how lean that was set. Looks like stock setting is 1 1/2 to 2 turns out. I was going to try this when I went back up to NW WI this next week.
 
I'll bet it's accessible, this bike was a GNCC bike b4 I got it and the 2009's came out so they ran the new bikes. It has a lot of nice bits on it! I do think that I'm LEAN on choke when I try starting it...esp. COLD and that when I pump in more gas via throttle I can get it started but then the Backfire which is a no no. :roll:
 
here is a pic of my '04 with a zip-ty(?) aftermarket pilot fuel screw. if you don't have one, there will just be a hole with a screw slot inside. (you can get to it with a very short small screwdriver, but its a pain)
the other pic is an aftermarket next to a couple of stock screws.
[attachment=0:2l9jamkx]bergstarters (1)a.JPG[/attachment:2l9jamkx]
[attachment=1:2l9jamkx]fcr fuel screws (1).JPG[/attachment:2l9jamkx]
 

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  • bergstarters (1)a.JPG
    bergstarters (1)a.JPG
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Ned37, Yep I'm clear where the fuel mix screw is, but pics help! Looks like a common FCR/upgrade and I'll pick one up tomarrow at my local shop. Thanks you guys rock :headbang:
 
An R&D Flex Jet Easy Access Mixture Screw makes it even easier than a straight extended one.

Steve
 
Here's the update, it turns out that I do have a Zip-ty like knurled knob style adjustable fuel mixture screw on the bike...Yeah! Looks just like your pic Ned!

I adjusted it richer by 1/4 turn to about 1 1/2 turns out as far as I could tell and that definately made a difference. It's fun trying to get cold fingers in there with the silly bracket for the idle speed screw in the way. After giving the bike a few warmup kicks it started off the button and only one complaining pop. I'll probably turn it out richer another 1/4 turn next time I'm at my property :wink: I changed the oil to 5W40 and it looks like I'm on the right track thanks to everyone here :bow: :cheers: :bow:
 

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