2004 FS650E has milky oil - what now?

Given the info provided, I would think it would be the o-ring seal on the clutch cover. No big deal if so.

...or the 3 O-rings on the cylinder liner. It is 2004, the o-rings may be at the end of their life cycle. but first, try to replace the o-ring where the coolant enters the crankcse (under the left cover). If you change the thickness of the gasket under this cover, you have to adjust the thickness of the O-ring as well.

mikeberg650 said:

berger said:

Given the info provided, I would think it would be the o-ring seal on the clutch cover. No big deal if so.

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Hey Berger, thanks for the reply. I really hope so....I am in the process of flushing the milk out the engine. Can you point me in the right direction for the seal? Is this it? (part#0760101844 for $10)

Are there any threads or anything on installing this? I read on here people install 2 to prevent leakage?

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It could be the cylinder o-ring seals, but that is going to be very costly. I say start with the easy fix first.

Download the 04 parts manual.
The seal is #65 on page 53. You will also want #25,53 and 60(x2). On page 56 you would want #26 (I would get a few just in case). You will try to avoid replacing the water pump seals if possible (#60). If you damage them or feel the need to replace them I can coach you on how to do that.
One # 65 should be sufficient. You can apply a small amount of suitable RTV to it if you feel the need.
How to get to the seal.
Drain the oil and coolant
Remove the gear shift lever
Remove the kick start lever
Remove the outer clutch cover (4 bolts). This will help you with prying off the main clutch cover.
Remove the water pump cover
Make sure to make note of where all the bolts during the entire operation go. Some are different lengths.
Remove the water pump impeller circlip.
Remove the impeller. pull straight up or GENTLY pry upwards. I am assuming you have lain the bike on its side to work on it.
Remove the pin that drives the impeller on the shaft.
Remove all of the main cover bolts.
Now you will want to gently pry off the main cover. There are a few purchase points (ears) on the cover you can try to use. You can also gently pry on the cover using the clutch as a leverage point. Make sure not to pry on any sealing surfaces.
Tip- Have an assistant apply straight down pressure to the kick start shaft while trying to remove the cover. If the kick start shaft should come up with the cover just a little bit, it will ruin your weekend. Try to pull straight up on the cover once it is loosened to avoid damaging the kick start,gear shift or water pump seals.

During assembly you will want to pay close attention to lining up the cover to avoid damaging the seals. a little lube would not hurt.
Make sure the cover is perfectly flush before bolting it back together. Gently tap it home with a wooden or plastic hammer. If it is not perfectly flush, you have a problem. Pay close attention to the kick start shaft. YOU DO NOT WANT TO DISTURB IT. It is a major pain in the *** to reassemble for the first time novice. It can be done, but you do not want to go there voluntarily.
Reassemble
Torque to spec
Refill with oil
Refill with coolant making sure to use the coolant air bleeder on the top of the head.

It really is not a bad job.

might be nothing. oil looks milky on a Husaberg sometimes. change it and see what the next litre looks like?

regards

Taffy

see if you can get the water seal out from there

some fine picks and a bit of violence the steel body of the seal will fold inwards toward the shaft then pull it out

or use self tappers carefully.. there is about a 2mm gap on the other side before you hit the oil seal

nothing to loose I reckon, have done it a few times now.

if you ever need to test if there is water in the oil, drain it and soak a rag in the oil

light it and see if there is any crackling and spitting ...

the "sleeve" is just the seal body so yes its stuffed already

this is roughly what to do but we need to pull the seal in the opposite direction to what they do in the link so its easier for us, if it needs more encouragement you can bend the metal part toward the shaft with a straight pick

http://www.zcar.com/forum/12-90-96-tech ... l-out.html

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/f ... icing.html

if it doesn't work its no big deal



FWIW the water seal from a 2007 ktm65 is a nice blue silicone one 46035056100 and it fits well, its a lot easier to get out and seals off better on its OD

I would suggest just pulling the clutch cover as planned. You will still want to replace the cover o-ring. Your chances for replacing the water pump seals without damaging anything will be much better. I use a bolt,nut and 2 flat washers to install the water pump seals. Trying to tap the seals in never seems to work well for me. I should probably try to post some pictures.

I had the same thing a few years back with my '07 550. In my case it was just that water pump shaft seal leaking. When replacing the seal i noticed the shaft surface was pretty average so on further inspection found the seal had failed due to excessive shaft movement caused by the bearing inside being worn! Turned into a fairly large job to fix a coolant leak! For some reason my berg had a small bearing inside a sleeve in the case to support this shaft. My parts bloke told me that was the case for some FE's and that the other models just had a larger bearing in there, so i replaced mine with the larger bearing and did away with the sleeve. When replacing the seals, take note of the direction of the cup faces, they are designed to seal from one side primarily.

only whats already mentioned, bergers post has all you need to know

bit hard to tell from the pics if its all OK

id put the shiny blue oil cap in the cupboard so as not to scratch it and use a plastic ktm65 one

no worries !

hey you got ferocious rats biting your nails at night ?