- Joined
- Sep 8, 2002
- Messages
- 321
- Location
- Melbourne, Australia
Scully, sounds very similar to a problem Horto had not so long ago. Take a look at this thread.
Kick start problem
Kick start problem
Why is my K/starter grabbing as I start the kick? Seal leak?
Help Support Husaberg:
Scully
Hard to see exactly on the parts manual drawing. Check if said piece of metal holds the k-start ratchet pawl out of contact with the ratchet drum when the lever is in the up position. If it is, check the pawl has not been continually in contact with the drum while the metal plate was loose. If it has the ratchet pawl would likely be flogged.
Which spring? The lever recoil or the tiny bugger that pushes the pawl into mesh?
Hard to see exactly on the parts manual drawing. Check if said piece of metal holds the k-start ratchet pawl out of contact with the ratchet drum when the lever is in the up position. If it is, check the pawl has not been continually in contact with the drum while the metal plate was loose. If it has the ratchet pawl would likely be flogged.
Which spring? The lever recoil or the tiny bugger that pushes the pawl into mesh?
spring
Brad, the spring is the larger one that returns the k/starter. When I was playing around with it this morning I thought I had it right and then I read the parts manual and it looks different?
I think the piece of metal is called the "Engagement sledge" (20 on the parts list) bit hard to see in the drawing.
Also is the O'ring for the k/start decomp part number 9 (4x1)?? I will pull it out tomorrow morning as I'm at work now.
The big spring concerns me now as to which way it fits? and the bur on the sledge? I hoping I can file it down?
Is Dale LLLLL about?????
Brad, the spring is the larger one that returns the k/starter. When I was playing around with it this morning I thought I had it right and then I read the parts manual and it looks different?
I think the piece of metal is called the "Engagement sledge" (20 on the parts list) bit hard to see in the drawing.
Also is the O'ring for the k/start decomp part number 9 (4x1)?? I will pull it out tomorrow morning as I'm at work now.
The big spring concerns me now as to which way it fits? and the bur on the sledge? I hoping I can file it down?
Is Dale LLLLL about?????
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2001
- Messages
- 3,249
- Location
- El Sobrante, Ca. 94803
Hi Scully,
A flat engagement key (item 13) and / or freewheel gear engagement slots (item 17) will create such trouble as the engagement key will catch in between the freewheel gear slots consequently stalling the kick lever.
If you are simply unhappy with the engagement position via spline / kickstart arm adjustment one may alter the engagement position via the engagement sledge (item 20). Simply relieve material from the leading edge for earlier engagement
Regarding excessive starter clutch slipping:
Is it possible that you have a week starter gear wheel ( item 8 )?
Said item is designed to slip during heavy starter loads.
Hope this helps.
Kind Regards,
Dale
A flat engagement key (item 13) and / or freewheel gear engagement slots (item 17) will create such trouble as the engagement key will catch in between the freewheel gear slots consequently stalling the kick lever.
If you are simply unhappy with the engagement position via spline / kickstart arm adjustment one may alter the engagement position via the engagement sledge (item 20). Simply relieve material from the leading edge for earlier engagement
Regarding excessive starter clutch slipping:
Is it possible that you have a week starter gear wheel ( item 8 )?
Said item is designed to slip during heavy starter loads.
Hope this helps.
Kind Regards,
Dale
Dale L
Thanks for the advice,
Had a better look this morning, before leaving for work.
The inner needle roller bearing needs replacing, and I cleaned up the sledge.
The bike shop informed me that my quality of oil is "to good" and causes the s/clutch to slip???????? I use full synthetic Penzzoil 5W/50, and they suggest a synthetic blend or lower quality synthetic like Shell VSX4? Does this sound ok?? They have stopped using motor X in favour of the VSX.
Why doesnt the kick start decomp mechanism have a seal or O'ring?? As mine leaks a little from here and runs down toward the s/arm.
Thanks,
Thanks for the advice,
Had a better look this morning, before leaving for work.
The inner needle roller bearing needs replacing, and I cleaned up the sledge.
The bike shop informed me that my quality of oil is "to good" and causes the s/clutch to slip???????? I use full synthetic Penzzoil 5W/50, and they suggest a synthetic blend or lower quality synthetic like Shell VSX4? Does this sound ok?? They have stopped using motor X in favour of the VSX.
Why doesnt the kick start decomp mechanism have a seal or O'ring?? As mine leaks a little from here and runs down toward the s/arm.
Thanks,
fixed
Well it's all fixed now! I got a small o'ring and placed it on the kicker decomp arm in front of the spring, no leaks now.
I replaced the kick start needle roller aswell. Sure is a pain in the arse putting that assy back together for the first time? It's a piece of piss now.
So I put Pennzoil 10w/40 synthetic blend in and after adjusting the fuel screw out to 1.70 turns, it even starts cold "off the button" ?? Brilliant!
Can someone please tell me the size of the two needle rollers behind the clutch basket? The parts list only says they are bushes? So I cant get them after market, and they will need replacing within the next 500 kms or so as I can see a tad of "orange" colour appearing?
Also can the water pump seal be purchased a/market or is it genuine?
Thanks again to all that had some assistance.
How about the TE 450 Husky's giving 24 months parts and labour?? But its still uglier than a R1200 beemer!
Well it's all fixed now! I got a small o'ring and placed it on the kicker decomp arm in front of the spring, no leaks now.
I replaced the kick start needle roller aswell. Sure is a pain in the arse putting that assy back together for the first time? It's a piece of piss now.
So I put Pennzoil 10w/40 synthetic blend in and after adjusting the fuel screw out to 1.70 turns, it even starts cold "off the button" ?? Brilliant!
Can someone please tell me the size of the two needle rollers behind the clutch basket? The parts list only says they are bushes? So I cant get them after market, and they will need replacing within the next 500 kms or so as I can see a tad of "orange" colour appearing?
Also can the water pump seal be purchased a/market or is it genuine?
Thanks again to all that had some assistance.
How about the TE 450 Husky's giving 24 months parts and labour?? But its still uglier than a R1200 beemer!
Hi Scully,
is your question still relevant to your current situation?
You asked if you can buy the water pump seal rings an the clutch needle
bearings after market.
The seal rings are no standard parts. That means you can buy some with the right diameters, but the original Husaberg seal rings have got
2 seal "circles" (sorry don´t know the excactly description for that, hope you know what I mean), and the standard seal rings have only one.
I could tell you what kind of bearing there are installed, but I have to know the diameters, I can measure them at a replaced transmission shaft and clutch hub I have got in my garage. So I can tell you later.
greetings
hribman :rock:
is your question still relevant to your current situation?
You asked if you can buy the water pump seal rings an the clutch needle
bearings after market.
The seal rings are no standard parts. That means you can buy some with the right diameters, but the original Husaberg seal rings have got
2 seal "circles" (sorry don´t know the excactly description for that, hope you know what I mean), and the standard seal rings have only one.
I could tell you what kind of bearing there are installed, but I have to know the diameters, I can measure them at a replaced transmission shaft and clutch hub I have got in my garage. So I can tell you later.
greetings
hribman :rock:
Similar threads
Register CTA
Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.
Sign Up
