What oil to use?
- Thread starter crezz
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It's not synthetic but Chevron (Caltex) DELO 400 is a real popular choice for the old school pre 09 models. Search "Delo400" or "Delo 400" and you will find heaps on oils including some real techo reading.
My bike is 2010 I use Motorex Cross Power 4T fully Synthetic 10W/50 for no other reason other than that is what the dealer told me to use. $120 for 4Litre or in perspective 3 cartons of beer (72 beers!).
My bike is 2010 I use Motorex Cross Power 4T fully Synthetic 10W/50 for no other reason other than that is what the dealer told me to use. $120 for 4Litre or in perspective 3 cartons of beer (72 beers!).
I Understand Isle of man is a serious temperature difference from Brisbane, Australia but Delo 400 runs great in my 04' 550.
I still change it out every 400 k's but it comes out clean and the bike really seems to run well on it, seems like the motor runs more quiet, further to that it's a well priced product but that's not why I've settled on it..over the motuls and semi syns it just seems better...more body at operating temperature maybe
Cheers
Pilot
I still change it out every 400 k's but it comes out clean and the bike really seems to run well on it, seems like the motor runs more quiet, further to that it's a well priced product but that's not why I've settled on it..over the motuls and semi syns it just seems better...more body at operating temperature maybe
Cheers
Pilot
- Joined
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When i first got my 04 450 it was running Motul. I noticed that it was suffering very badly from a noisy Berg clutch groan. After around 5 hours of riding the oil came out looking like water, and black as sin.
After a lot of research and recomendation I changed to Bel Ray Thumper oil, this was marginally better, allowing up to 10 hours between oil changes, but it was getting theclutch noises back at about the 9 hour mark.
After even more deliberation and plenty of reading tech documents, I followed a lot of other people and changed to Caltex Delo 400 (known as Chevron in the states), i have been consistantly able to get 15 hours before the clutch groans, and the oil comes out clean. I have drowned the bike in a very deep hole, drained the water out of the carb and cylinder and continued to ride all day with very minimal oil discolouration.
There is a large science and a massive debate about engine oils, there is a terrific thread on here, as well as many other forums. This is just my experience.
After a lot of research and recomendation I changed to Bel Ray Thumper oil, this was marginally better, allowing up to 10 hours between oil changes, but it was getting theclutch noises back at about the 9 hour mark.
After even more deliberation and plenty of reading tech documents, I followed a lot of other people and changed to Caltex Delo 400 (known as Chevron in the states), i have been consistantly able to get 15 hours before the clutch groans, and the oil comes out clean. I have drowned the bike in a very deep hole, drained the water out of the carb and cylinder and continued to ride all day with very minimal oil discolouration.
There is a large science and a massive debate about engine oils, there is a terrific thread on here, as well as many other forums. This is just my experience.
- Joined
- Apr 18, 2006
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- Brisbane Australia
Basicly Delo and Rotella are long haul deisel oils. These oils are designed for use in transport trucks running from one side of the country to the other. These vehicles run continusally, stopping only for fuel, driver change or a break down. At a preset time the oils are analysed for their lubricity, chemical content, composition and conatamination amongst other things. When these levels exceed a preset level, the oil is changed. To get the business the oil companies produce an oil that can handle this style of extreme use, thus reducing the amount of oil changes, reducing the long haul cost.
As the transport industry is driving the oil technology development, it is reducing the cost of oil, and improving the quality and the propertie of the oils. This has a follow on benifit for people who use these products, it gives us a high quality product that is cheap.
As far as the additives it does and does not run, they are hard to find info as that is the oil companies $$$$$$ maker, one thing is though, whatever they are they are designed to improve the life of the oil in one of the hardest enviroments around for oil.
As i said earlier, there is a great thread on here else where with all of this in it.
As the transport industry is driving the oil technology development, it is reducing the cost of oil, and improving the quality and the propertie of the oils. This has a follow on benifit for people who use these products, it gives us a high quality product that is cheap.
As far as the additives it does and does not run, they are hard to find info as that is the oil companies $$$$$$ maker, one thing is though, whatever they are they are designed to improve the life of the oil in one of the hardest enviroments around for oil.
As i said earlier, there is a great thread on here else where with all of this in it.
Lot's of threads here about oils................
DELO, great oil but now it has molybendumdisulphide (sp?) not good for wet clutches. Several folks report no problems, but it is not recommended by the manufacturer.
I have run motul 5100 since I got my first Berg in 96, a 94 &1/2 FE501, and have run it religously in my other 3 Bergs. I do frequent oil changes, usually no more than 4-6 hours on a change. The oil comes out just slightly darker than when it went it.
When I have taken my motors down for pm's or as in the case of my 04's broken valve spring at 220hrs, the inside of all my motors litterally look like brand new. I also run a Scott's stainless oil filter.
nuff said..........
DELO, great oil but now it has molybendumdisulphide (sp?) not good for wet clutches. Several folks report no problems, but it is not recommended by the manufacturer.
I have run motul 5100 since I got my first Berg in 96, a 94 &1/2 FE501, and have run it religously in my other 3 Bergs. I do frequent oil changes, usually no more than 4-6 hours on a change. The oil comes out just slightly darker than when it went it.
When I have taken my motors down for pm's or as in the case of my 04's broken valve spring at 220hrs, the inside of all my motors litterally look like brand new. I also run a Scott's stainless oil filter.
nuff said..........
Thanks a lot guys lots of helpful information as usual, i managed to pop in my locale bike shop today to see what they had, not much choice really but the guy behind the counter said he puts Motorex Power synt 4T fully synthetic 10W/50 in all the KTM's as he is a KTM only dealer.. will do a oil change tomorrow just hoping the oil isn't too black. 
Thanks again. Rich
Thanks again. Rich- Joined
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Rotella T Synth - but without the friction modifiers. The kind you want would say 'API SL/CF' on it.
or this:
Do not get anything with the 'EC' label on it (Energy Conserving) - that has friction modifiers. I.E., do not get anything that has this:
or this:
The friction modifiers in that oil will cause clutch problems.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_Rotella_T
or this:
Do not get anything with the 'EC' label on it (Energy Conserving) - that has friction modifiers. I.E., do not get anything that has this:
or this:
The friction modifiers in that oil will cause clutch problems.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_Rotella_T
I used to use Putoline Offroad 4+ fully synthetic ester based oil recomended to me by Dave Clark Racing, Safe but expensive.
Everyone on here will swear by Delo 400 multigrade, its recomended for your berg over most fully snthetic oils you can buy. But..you wont find it anywhere in the uk.
Next best thing i can find is Shell Rotell t-6 (Fully synth), another highly recomended diesel oil for your berg and now comes JASO MA as Dale says.
However you will again find its not available in the uk. The good thing about this is Rotella is available as Rimula in the uk.
Rimula comes in many different forms and i suspect most would be ok for you bike, but as mentioned stay away from any "energy saving" or "LE" branded oils as these contain Moly.
I took a calculated risk and went for Rimula Super R3 multigrade from ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Shell-Rimula-Supe ... 3a5cad2551
£2 a litre and so far so good.
Everyone on here will swear by Delo 400 multigrade, its recomended for your berg over most fully snthetic oils you can buy. But..you wont find it anywhere in the uk.
Next best thing i can find is Shell Rotell t-6 (Fully synth), another highly recomended diesel oil for your berg and now comes JASO MA as Dale says.
However you will again find its not available in the uk. The good thing about this is Rotella is available as Rimula in the uk.
Rimula comes in many different forms and i suspect most would be ok for you bike, but as mentioned stay away from any "energy saving" or "LE" branded oils as these contain Moly.
I took a calculated risk and went for Rimula Super R3 multigrade from ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Shell-Rimula-Supe ... 3a5cad2551
£2 a litre and so far so good.
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
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- Seattle
I was in Wally World today to get some oil. I got the Mobil synth 15/50 as the Rotella T6 was 5/40 and Husaberg recommends 10/50. The Mobil synth was less expensive - $21 for 5 quarts v. $19 for 4 quarts.
- Joined
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I mix 1 part MOBIL 1 15/50 synthetic with 1 part SHELL Rotella 15/40 non synthetic. I just sold my 2004 FE550 tonight with 420+hours and only have replaced a cam chain. I change it often, usually every 1-2 rides. I just had the valve cover and clutch cover off and it looked SWEET.
cheesebegrer
cheesebegrer
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Mixes are good.
But I'd get suspicious if a synthetic oil had the lousy span of 15w 50, you'd expect the span to be at least 5w 50 if it is sythetic, what is the point with synthetic if not?
I'd get the 5w 50 Mobil 1 instead. It may even be the same oil but marked differently for marketing reasons so maybe you are all right after all.
With mineral oil on the other hand, anything lower than 15w will not have the high temperature high shear viscosity you want. The "w" is mainly about winter properties but hidden within the SAE specs is the HTHS viscosity too.
But I'd get suspicious if a synthetic oil had the lousy span of 15w 50, you'd expect the span to be at least 5w 50 if it is sythetic, what is the point with synthetic if not?
I'd get the 5w 50 Mobil 1 instead. It may even be the same oil but marked differently for marketing reasons so maybe you are all right after all.
With mineral oil on the other hand, anything lower than 15w will not have the high temperature high shear viscosity you want. The "w" is mainly about winter properties but hidden within the SAE specs is the HTHS viscosity too.
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