What does this look like?

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Joined
Oct 19, 2011
Messages
170
Location
dono
Removing engine this week, just want some expert advice as to where to look first.. has been getting progressively louder rapping sound from crank area over past few months.. now very loud. Chips getting worse. Still runs, but doubt for long.
chips.jpg
 
Big end. Rod kit, mains, piston and cylinder, most likely oil pump too, all gone :(

Tight *** crank pin too... :cuss:
 
4000 miles, husaberg fe570s... I am going to replace everything. Just want to know where to start. Sounds like I have alot of work to do :(
 
Where to start ? Pull the top end off and check the con rod for radial play, split the cases and prepare for a bleeding wallet.
 
This is what it probably looks like
 

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Well it was out of the berg, :angry: I have pictures of further carnage, but I'm sure you really dont wanna see that :D
 
I'm really surprised it looks like that after only 4kmi. Any idea what could have caused it? Long long long oil changes, or bad oil? Else?
 
Yes I would like to see more carnage :)..

Honestly, I really dont know how this happened. I was meticulous. I used 15w50 mobile 1 and changed filter every few hundred miles.. I think I put the upper top end screen in backwards from day 1, but that would not affect oil delivery to the crank. I broke it in by riding it home from the dealer 200 miles on the highway.. but I went slow. I have the euro comp map installed and ran with akrapovic can.. the only thing I can think of was I used to chug along in a high gear slowly in single track putting alot of stress on the crank... LOW rpm's at the point of almost stalling.. most of my riding was at such low rpm's for a very long long time.. I bet that was too much stress for it.. what do you think? Low rpm's, low oil delivery, high shear to the crank from the low rpms?
 
My drama was lack of lubrication due to a toasted oil pump. I think your problem is lack of lube pressure. Blocked filter maybe, there is a jet that is that meters oil flow to the crank via a seal in the clutch cover, if the jet is blocked of the seal has failed, good bye big end.

I checked the valve clearances while waiting for a big bore throttle body and didn't replace the breathe hose correctly. After a big ride in wet river sand, I changed the oil and filter but when I pulled the screen out to clean it I was unaware that I had pushed some sand direclty into the oil pump pick up. :(

I run a 104mm piston and I give it heaps, a lot of big speed work and I also enjoy really leaning on the low spose torque. When I first look at the big end I thought I might have a detonation problem or too much advance.
 
well, how has your new big end been? any problems? .. I almost have the motor out, and will be ordering the parts right away.. for now I am riding the husky and the crf :mrgreen: .. I will give the engine a good cleaning and going thru.. any suggestions on what to clean it with on the inside? I was thinking wd-40 would be fine just to get the chips out what do you think
 
Careful on the reassembly. I've read of 2 instances of 570 motors locking up after rebuilds due to debris clogging something and preventing adequate oil flow. I think Lostrider was one of those issues due to the shop claiming they left some debris from a rag. FWIW.
 
Rensho said:
Careful on the reassembly. I've read of 2 instances of 570 motors locking up after rebuilds due to debris clogging something and preventing adequate oil flow. I think Lostrider was one of those issues due to the shop claiming they left some debris from a rag. FWIW.

Thats for sure, there are plenty of oil jets, orifices and galleries for crap to hide in.
 
Hi Tiger,

The score marks on your cilinder/piston come most likely from the metal debris of the big end. That's thanks to the almost horizontal position of the cilinder.
Perhaps you ran the engine very hot at some point in time? or too low oil level? Or just asking too much from the engine. It's hard to say anything with 100% certainty.

But.... when you put the engine together again use rags, not paper. Buy degreaser by the gallon and use a big bucket to clean the engine halfs. Wash the parts twice, rinse with water and dry with an airgun.
When you start up for the first time just let the engine run for a couple of minutes, than lean it over to the left side, almost flat, take out the two oil plugs, clean and mount again. Do this a couple of times, running the engine or ride a km.
You'll notice that the screen filter will catch a lot of stuff; silicon gasket, fibres, etc. If it is a lot It will clog the screenfilter. KTM even gave an official warning to their dealers about it because aparantly quit a few engines seized after being overhauled...
If you fail to do this your engine will sound fine at first but after a couple of miles/kms it might seize for a few seconds. That was one of the rockerarms seizing on its shaft and getting loose again.... the rockerarms are at the end of the oil circuitry and will suffer from insuffiecient oil supply first.

happy wrenching,
 
Hi Dustbite. Thank you very much. I have heard this a few times now and will make sure to do just that way. I plan to change the oil twice before any serious riding as well. I was wondering also if anyone knew the proper direction of the screen filter on the head .. the banjo bolt one.. is the opening supposed to face the head or away from the head.. just curious if reversing this screen may have been a problem.
 
the small screenfilter in the Banjo bolt is there to prevent oil build-up in the valve cover compartment when you would make a steep descent...
That means if you didn't do any of that for a prolonged time it should not matter.
as far as I know there's only one way to mount the little thingy. The closed end should be visible (=not in the banj-bolt)

No sense in throwing away good oil, just check and clean both plugs until they stay clean.
Frequent oil changes are a good thing but for me it's all about economics so in general after 5 to 7 days, depending on how hard the riding was.

cheers, Adrian
 

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