valve clearance!

Hi guys!
today i tried the valve clearance for my 650 berg. removed valve cover and spark plug. put engine in TDC but really can't understand where i have to stick the feeler gauge in.

i haven't screwed or unscrewed the nut and the udjusting screw.

i looked in the repair manual and tried to stick the gauge several time but noway.

do i have to unscrew the adjusting-screw, put the feeler gauge and then screw it back?

heeeelp meee please!

oh and i couldn't find a 0.12mm feeler gauge. no i have a 0.10mm and a 0.05 blade. what can i do?

keep poking itll slide right in if she's at the right postion maybe get a torch and go down for a look might find your trying to force it inbetween the valve stem and the collets rather than the valve stem and the wobbly cup.

do i have to unscrew the adjusting-screw, put the feeler gauge and then screw it back?

Click to expand...

yes can loosen the adjuster right off might help find the hole.

Orangeberg recommended 5.5 thou as a clearence 0.14mm so could double up the 2 at 0.15 (nearly 6) and set it a bit tight. taffys setting the zuasts at 5.5 and intakes at 5 thou I think ?

or do that turns method wot lots of guys do.. I can't seem to get the hang of that, always comes out wrong.

there is a thread somewhere about it

regards
Bushie

pastullo said:

Hi guys!
today i tried the valve clearance for my 650 berg. removed valve cover and spark plug. put engine in TDC but really can't understand where i have to stick the feeler gauge in.

i haven't screwed or unscrewed the nut and the udjusting screw.

i looked in the repair manual and tried to stick the gauge several time but noway.

do i have to unscrew the adjusting-screw, put the feeler gauge and then screw it back?

heeeelp meee please!

oh and i couldn't find a 0.12mm feeler gauge. no i have a 0.10mm and a 0.05 blade. what can i do?

Click to expand...

First off, get the correct feeler gauge. You also need to understand TDC and how that works, if you are going to use it to do the valves. You want TDC on the compression stroke, because only then are both sets of valves closed, which they have to be to adjust.

Do not go backing out the adjuster screw just to get the gauge in. If you have to turn it out more than 1/2 a turn to get the gauge in, you are not doing something correct because the valve is not closed.

You should understand how a four stroke engine operates, and the sequence of how the valves open and close before attempting a valve adjustment. Once you understand this, you can adjust either set of valves whenever the cam is in the "heel" position, and this eliminates the need to find compression TDC. Trying to find TDC and ending up on the wrong stroke and then backing the adjusters way out to compensate is a common problem for those who are unsure of what to do.

As far as understanding where the gauge goes, insert it directly on top of the valve spring, between the top of the spring and the little "foot" on the tappet. Like I said before, if you find yourself having to unscrew the adjuster a bunch to insert the gauge, STOP. The valve is not closed.

Another thing that will help, when you think you have you are at the spot where the valve is closed--grap the rocker arm and see if there is just a bit of play in it. This indicates the valve is closed and is ready to adjust.

RE: Re: valve clearance!

I have to say loosening the adjuster does help. its not easy to get a guage in particulary first time.

I use a dial guage and feelers so i know the valve is closed, if you can feel the play at around 5 thou its closed but sometims the lil gauge just won't go in. I blame the wobbly cups.

nothing wrong with doubling up feelers. a good double feel is better than the wrong feel :twisted:

RE: Re: valve clearance!

i'm still on a 1/6th of a turn and then with the '08s, 000's and race cam i'm 1/6th inlet and 1/5th 'zorst.

regards

Taffy

Re: RE: Re: valve clearance!

bushmechanic said:

I have to say loosening the adjuster does help. its not easy to get a guage in particulary first time.

I use a dial guage and feelers so i know the valve is closed, if you can feel the play at around 5 thou its closed but sometims the lil gauge just won't go in. I blame the wobbly cups.

nothing wrong with doubling up feelers. a good double feel is better than the wrong feel :twisted:

Click to expand...

Yes, but you already know what you are doing. And, like I said 1/2 turn is all you need to get a gauge in there.

so first thing is make sure i am at right TDC.

try to stick the feeler gauge. if it does, loose the counternut, screw the adjusting screw, and tight the counternut back, right?

if it doesn't stick, loose the adjusting screw half turn?

what I would like to do is find a feeler guage that is .12mm to avoid doubling up. This is for the 2008 bikes. Does anyone know where these can be found? Once I have used the feeler guage then I can get used to the gap feel and also work out the turn method. So for .12mm what is the turn.... is it 1/6th? The manual says .12 for inlet and sorzt, so why does Taffy make the exhause smaller? Having the gap too bigger can hammer the roller rocker bearing?

if you want to know, its manners to ask in the first peron not the third!

1/6th is 0.125mm so that's that sorted.

1/5th of a turn is a LARGER gap not smaller. it's 0.15mm and the exhaust should have a larger gap than the inlet on every other vehicle in the world so why not the husaberg? also, the ramp on a cam is RELATIVELY soft and as long as the tappet clearance isn't crazy loose it still gets a gentle pick up at 1/5th turn.

if you knew the shape of a cam you would always worry about the closing flank and how the valve gets "dumped" back on it's seat - hard!

what are the tappet cleances for a KTM? 'm the only person doing this so don't mind me.

and for those interested in how i get "a visual" on a 1/5th well. after working out all the angles i now go to 1/4 turn and then let the screw turn with the nut a little.

regards

Taffy

thanks Taffy, I will go that that 1/6 turn method.... will try and get some feeler gauges first though so I can do it spot on and then get a feel for the gap to second guess when I do the 1/6th.

just to be clear, folks, a cam always startsoff gently and then goes nuts! then plummets the valve towards the seat but at the last moment slows the valve to come in to land softly. all this is rather like an airplane. i didn't want you all thinking tha i was starting to call the cam flanks on a husaberg 'soft'!!!

regards

Taffy

just done mine with engine on bench with nice new smooth cups.

used a dial guage and feelers to check and tried my best to get this 1/6th thing to work.

got a variation of +/- 0.02mm from 0.12 on the valves that don't grab the screw with the locknut, one zorst is dodgy and garbs teh screw.. 0.08 to 0.16 tried me best done it a few times.

i reckon +/- 0.02 is pretty blooday good enough but.... i did it with the feelers alone checked with dial guage and with a 0.14mm feeler got 0.14mm +/- 0.005mm on all of em in less time than the turns shenanigans.

whatever works for the cook is good for the goose is that how it goes..

doen't matter which way its done really i guess is wot im saying.

regards
Bushie

I'd guess that if you have got the flat tappets the feeler gauges are the best way to set the lash. But if you have the concave tappets i doubt the goodness of the gauges strongly. Tappets are made flat or concave, which ones did your bike come with?

Taffy said:

just to be clear, folks, a cam always startsoff gently and then goes nuts! then plummets the valve towards the seat but at the last moment slows the valve to come in to land softly.

Click to expand...

What if you could use these engagement/disengagement ramps and use them for the lash adjustment. I have tried to feel the valve engagement point spinning the flywheel manually but the friction in the motor was too great so it was not possible. Maybe if you play the rockers axially to find the engagement point? Or use your dial gauge to make marks on the flywheel indicating the start of the ramp and the correct lash point. A totally gaugeless adjustment would then be possible by using the marks made on the flywheel. Just an idea...
Regards.

that sounds like a good idea, but there must be a catch otherwise you would think the factory would make those marks, unless there are too many different cams?

.....but there are markson the flywheel to tell you when you are in the right place? or do yo mean the '04s and onwards? once you know where the trigger bump should be - you know where TDC is.

FYI, TDC on the '04> is when the leading tip of the trigger is in line with the cover screw situated at 9 o clock.

regards

Taffy

has anyone filmed doing a valve clearance to put on this site yet. would be really helpful for the hack/backyarder like myself.
i've done it before a few times, but have always wondered if i've made the clearance too tight or too loose. seems to work.

thought i had it wrong once till i took the mechanics and found out the main bearing hardening failed :angry:
but anyway just a thought about the video

regards
toppers

oh yes a video would be very useful!

i checked but no factory sign on my flywheel for TDC

Taffy said:

.....but there are markson the flywheel to tell you when you are in the right place? or do yo mean the '04s and onwards? once you know where the trigger bump should be - you know where TDC is.

FYI, TDC on the '04> is when the leading tip of the trigger is in line with the cover screw situated at 9 o clock.

regards

Taffy

Click to expand...

perhaps i wasn't clear?

"9 o clock" means the screw level with the centre line of the cranknut behind it. it also means on the left of the crank as you view it from the right. the 'right' is denoted as the side to your right when sat on the bike.

the leading edge of the trigger bump is that which arrives first when rotating in the correct direction.

:lol: :lol: :lol:

regards

Taffy

taffmaister you definitely should post a video of you adjusting the valve (while drinking a beer (opened with the husaberg tool))

Yes, TDC. All valves closed here and and cam rollers hovering over the base circles. Now set your valve lash to 0.1 and 0.13, or whatever respectively, using your best method.

Exhaust lash mark: Spin the flywheel forward to the exact point where the exhaust valves just start to open. That position is where your 0.13 point is on your engagement ramp, mark your flywheel so that you can get back to this point again later.

Intake lash mark: Spin the flywheel backwards to the exact point where the intake valves just start to open. That position is where your 0.10 point is on your engagement ramp, mark your flywheel so that you can get back to this point again later.


To set the valve lash next time adjust your valves to 0 lash with the flywheel at the marks respectively. Done.


(If you make additional marks on the flywheel corresponding to the start of the ramps from the base circle you can next time check if this point have moved, this as an error check, if they moved you must move your lash marks correspondingly.)


Complicated?, No, I do not think so really.
This is just an idea, I have not tried this at home...


Regards.