Uh Oh no compression ...

rancheroracer · Jan 12, 2006

LeFrog said:
Loosen up the 10mm nut, turn the flat screw in all the way, then back out 1/3 of a turn and tighten the 10mm nut. Exactly as I did before, following his advice, except that this time we had the piston at TDC on the compression stroke.

With the valves adjusted properly, I now have a lot more compression than before and it has become harder to kick start the bike, but I guess that, with boots on and the proper application of strength, the bike will start a lot more easily.quote]

1/3 turn, won't that give you twice the rec. clearance? When mine were that loose on my KTM525 & my 'Berg, they were HARD to kick also, when I did the 1/6 turn, kicking was much easier. Extra clearance defeats the decomp., right?

LeFrog · Jan 12, 2006

Well I will try like that for a little while and will let you know how it works.

I still can redo the adjustment.

Next time I will try the 1/8 turn of the FW method.

My Berg is still leaking, therefore I am up for re-opening again, so no big deal.

steve · Jan 12, 2006

To avoid confusion over what a turn is, use 45 degrees to get the correct setting. 90 degrees is easy to visualise, and 1/8 turn, or 45 degrees is half that. Works for me.

Steve

LeFrog · Jan 12, 2006

Thanks, I don't think it really matters it you turn 43 or 47 degrees, though.

rancheroracer · Jan 12, 2006

1/6th of a turn = 1 flat on the nut. Makes it easy for me.

Uh Oh no compression ...

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