tuned berg 650 and i want it faster any help ???

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T

topo

Joined
Mar 9, 2011
Messages
10
hi i have a 2004 husaberg 650 sm i race this bike in the british super moto , i have had it on the dyno at dcr and it made 62bhp at rear wheel and pulled all way upto 120mph , i was hoping for more , my prob is i dont know what else i can do it it to get more power i was trying to get upto near the 70 bhp mark is this possible ? is 62bhp a good fig ? i thought it was a little low , any help would be great

engine spec

gas flowed head
uprated head gasket
hi comp piston
1mm oversized intake valves
1mm oversized exhaust valves
Hot cams
rejetted carb
Full Doma racing exhaust system
DNA high performance air filter
STM Slipper clutch
Race wiring loom
modifid gear box
 
If I were racing and looking for more power I would defenitely look at putting a big bore kit. I'm sure some of the tech gyus on this forum will chime in and give you some more advice on what to do.
 
Big bore makes things heavy, heavy piston heavy crank to balance the piston, the explosions get bigger and harder to keep in, the head on my jbs 105mm still lifts a little. the positive of all that is its a very simple way to do things

the other option is to keep the bore at 100mm and lighten everything as much as you can then tune the crapper out of it, bigger carb cam etc

Dr-Cs approach is very interesting as are engine hardwares 100mm bore ice engines he has had 72hp out of them there are also the KTM RFS engines to compare to, there are a few set up as 78mm stroke 100mm bore 10 000 rpm 72hp, they use preloaded annular ball bearings for mains like a CNC mill headstock or ducati crank this prevents the crank from spreading with increasing rpm, some sets are at 300hrs +
 
Does gas flowed head mean it has been ported? Sorry for my lack of skill in the english language :(

Other than that all I see is a bored out carb to match increased flow through the eninge (exhaust, head, valves) together with a twin exhaust. You could also do the "extra filter mod" which means you make a hole just above the rear shock mount. Then weld a tube some 7cm long and just put a small air filter on it.
My previous 650 had the 644cc crank and a full twin exhaust as only mods and that put out some 64-65bhp. So I think that either is your dyno showing small numbers or there is something wrong with the bike. What do other bikes put out on the dyno you are using?
 
i dont think there anythin wrong with my bike its just not making big power on that dyno i may try it on a local dyno with same set up and see if the bhp is the same < yes the head has had the ports opend and polished etc , ill look into boring the carb , i dont really want to big bore the engine as its loads of work to close to the start of my racing im racing on 26th march lol and i need it to be 100% i can have it blowing up all the time
 
topo said:
i dont think there anythin wrong with my bike its just not making big power on that dyno i may try it on a local dyno with same set up and see if the bhp is the same < yes the head has had the ports opend and polished etc , ill look into boring the carb , i dont really want to big bore the engine as its loads of work to close to the start of my racing im racing on 26th march lol and i need it to be 100% i can have it blowing up all the time
Click to expand...
Since you have a 2004 bike you already have the 644cc that I had in my 2006. Perhaps a twin exhaust would help. The two things I noticed when switching from a full akro to the Raas twin was lower noise and a "happier" engine, meaing it revved faster and it seemed to rev a bit higher as well giving a bit more top end power.

I think you should do some sort of comparison with some other similar bikes on a couple of different dynos. And remember, figures aren't everything :D
 
im 100% with you on that fig arnt everythin but i feel its a little low thats all heres a video of it at a test day two weeks ago
im the one in front on blue berg my bro is folowing on a black berg both 650s

[youtube:3nafxcim]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJa2Fw3exLU[/youtube:3nafxcim]
 
whato Topo

firstly I think you should stick to the std compression and that is why you aren't making more power, it's slowing the engine. I trust the oversize valves are therefore 36/31. I use 36/30.

gas flowed is when you calibrate what you have done and keep going forwards or the porting is done on the back of other cylinder heads known. I've gas flowed two heads and then ported 20 copying them! gas flowed - ported = two different things. of course I can call my heads 'gas flowed' as long as I copy what I did to the best head i tested..... :D :D

have a look at my web site at the bottom of this message and look at a download called racing parts. the rubber sock is a Major restriction. 41mm is bad but 39mm is awful.

also do my own jetting kit and would put it against anyone's....just my opinion of course!

one or two new ideas for you on my sit anyway OK?

regards

Taffy
 
had a look today and im running the bigger bellmouth and larger carb boot so no rectrictions there :(
 
Don't get hung up over the bhp figure on the dyno - it's just a number on a dial. The same bike on the same dyno on a different day may show a different reading since humidity and air temperature make a big difference to power.

Use the dyno figure to make adjustments whilst on the dyno and do back-to-back runs to see if power and, just as important, drivability improve.

When you say 'hot cams' what, exactly do you mean? Hotter than standard? Full race?

Is there any step between the exhaust port and the header?

Have you shaped the valves to aid gas-flow? How wide are the valve-seats?

What is the compression ratio? How do you know the ignition timing is optimised?
 
will be a hotcams 3014 or 3015 for the rfs engine with water pump shaft cut off

the 3014 has lame specs so

FWIW Technical Specifications hotcams 3015:
Exhaust Duration (Degrees at 1mm):
261

Exhaust Lift (mm):
10.2

Exhaust Lobe Center (Degrees):
111

Exhaust Valve Lash (mm):
0.13

Intake Duration (Degrees at 1mm):
271

Intake Lift (mm):
10.8

Intake Lobe Center (Degrees):
113
 
my thoughts too

reduce the effective comp ratio by increasing duration + get more stuff in to burn,

Web Cam KTM4 62-062 Grind:820/821

intake lift 10.95 intake dur 321
ex lift 10.41 ex duration 309

or get in touch with Tom Miller (Cut7) of Katoom Talk for an even bigger one

the cam must be manufactured from scratch or built up with TIG hardfacing before regrinding NOT a spraywelded piece of junk, you get what you pay for.
 
thats it

the Thor hammer cam is Cut7s cam

looks like a square block for a round hole but it works for the katooms, same rocker gear and valves too
 
bushmechanic said:
my thoughts too

reduce the effective comp ratio by increasing duration + get more stuff in to burn,

Web Cam KTM4 62-062 Grind:820/821

intake lift 10.95 intake dur 321
ex lift 10.41 ex duration 309

or get in touch with Tom Miller (Cut7) of Katoom Talk for an even bigger one

the cam must be manufactured from scratch or built up with TIG hardfacing before regrinding NOT a spraywelded piece of junk, you get what you pay for.
Click to expand...

Cut7 cam's are not bigger:
His biggest cam:
284 @ 1mm lift. (exh and int)
max lift 10.67 (exh and int)
 
megacycle LX-1 is listed as 284 both and max lift 10.51

similar to the 8/07 and hotcams 3015

file.php


bugger its cut off. click link http://www.husaberg.org/forum/download/file.php?id=2564

They are from left to right 5905521 o 5521 o 5532 o 807 o Hot Cams 3015 o Cut7

the Cut7 cam has similar specs but looking at the pic hes got more lift earlier, valves open more for longer even though the specs are similar.

the webcam 820/821 has bigger specs but may not have any more effective lift/duration at useful lift, need to see a picture, do you have one contiman?

I'd like to try either :twisted:
 
Hi, i suggest you the following mods and you will get 74 hp at the rear wheel.
1. Change the valves with bigger (37/32) and lighter (titanium).
2. Port the head for better air and gas flow.
3. High comp piston (Wossner makes hi comp piston for the new 570, it fits perfect)
4. Replace the crank with a '03 (644). Much stronger from the '04.
5. Jetting the keihin.
6. Replace the standard exhaust with an aftermarket(Akra, FP, etc)
7. Tune the TPS and increase the rev limit to 10.200-10.500.
My husa with those mods has 74 true hp at the rear wheel and works perfect! If you have any questions ask me whatever you wont.
Johnyberg!
 

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