torque limiter

now is the time to demand a pay rise , ausberg

swedishsteel said:

chilledspode said:

Hi Sparks,

Could it be that at cooler temps 20W oil is too thick ( I am assuming this torque limiter part is bathed in oil) and the thick oil reduces the friction generated by the 'sintered' surface, resulting in slippage and premature wear?

Like I say my bike has 25hrs on it and has always started first revolution on the button until the end of summer when the temperature cooled off.

I am thinking either increased oil viscosity as it relates to higher overall engine drag at lower temps or friction reduction in the torque limiter may have played a part in the early failure in my case.

Any thoughts on this, Steve?

Cheers

Mark

Click to expand...

My Husaberg dealer KEVA in sweden told me they always use ex 5w-50 putoline oil. and that will help a lot. so I think lighter viscosity make a diffrens. Hsb recommend 10w-50 oil. But i now many off you guys in US and AU were its little warmer use 20w-40, 20w-50 oil. so if you use this oil and have problem cold start it, try with a lighter oil, It can be a cheap fix,
And report back if the problem gets better with it.

and I wish everybody here a HAPPY NEW YEAR. with a new year that you can have much Husaberg riding time

Regards Patrik

Click to expand...

Thanks Patrick!

I think given my normal 'low' temperatures I am going to opt for 5W-50 if I can find it - that's a bit of an odd oil...

Just for the fun of it - any chance the high viscosity of the recommended 20W-50 oil at low temps played a part in any of the main bearing failures ie: poor flow/lube as the motor is warming up?

Cheers and Happy New Year

Mark

sparks said:

Hi Taffy,

Here are the photos as promised, also there is a quick fix on these torque limiters,as for the 11Nm Ausberg I would say it hasn't got much life. The one I took off mine slipped at 5Nm, so when you undo the bolt that holds the two halfs together there is a dished washer all I did was to put a 15 thou shim on first then the dished washer retighten the bolt and voila it now slips at 25Nm, so a simple shim can save you 90 pounds or 180 Dollars.

Regards

Sparks.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that - I now have a much better understanding of how this part works. The manual shows the exploded view in such a way as to make you think the friction surface is more like a drum brake setup....

Cheers

Mark

now, not that we're into bird skwakes or anything but can we get an idea on the difference in the two failures?

the starter was beefed up in '03 and so was the starter clutch and so your failure is one or t'other?

PSS
noted these part numbers in the doc are for the starter sprague bearing parts?

Weak and failing electric starter '00 - '02
For three years owners struggled with weak starters that were classified as 'restarters' and only to be used after the engine was warm. Typically the starter would spin through and not quite 'catch' the engine and batteries went flat quickly.

There was an error in the '03 parts manual whereby they simply failed to realise that the whole set up had been upgraded for that year. The parts book was corrected in '04 when Husaberg went to the present Parts # system.

WAS IN '02
9 250 247-01....Free wheel outer part 01- (outter)

10 250 245-01...Clutch mechanism free wheel 01- (sprague)

11 360 035-01...Needle bearing free wheel 01-

12 250 248-01...Free wheel inner part 01- (inner). Changed to part No.250273 for '03.

BECAME IN '04
20 800.40.020.000 .......03 FREE WHEEL GEAR 03 (outter)

24 0405 101310............02 NEEDLE BEARING K 10X13X10 02

25 800.40.025.000 ........03 FREE WHEEL HUB 03 (inner)

26 800.40.026.000........ 03 FREE WHEEL 03 (sprague)

this will now have an article added to it regarding the starter clutch:
21 800.40.021.000 .......03 GEAR WHEEL YORQUE LIMITER 03 (outter)

regards

Taffy

That confirms what I recently learned, Sparks

A dealer informed me, if the replacement part # doesn't start with an '8' then it is the old and possibly out of spec assembly.

Cheers

Mark

I have bought a new one a month ago +- and it slips easly.
I opened it and it ahs the normal pieces and one addicional dished washer and btw the 2 gears one washer made in a material just like the brakes.

About the oils, could you be wrong? Could it be more viscousity more slip?? I suppose it's onliy a matter of phisic!!! If we have a more viscous material it slips more than a less one,
wrong??

OK herewith I send a photo with the psrts that compose my torque limiter.

Sorry I've tried for several times to upload the pictura but I cant. The sistem doesn't accept.

husby, check the size of the photo. you may need to resize to lower than 1200 pixels

Does anybody have a source for the fiber disc in the torque limiter? Or where to obtain the material to make a disc? My disc came apart during cleaning and I can't see paying $180 for the whole assembly if it's not needed.

Hi

So this was the post were this started

Thanks Sparks for your solution

Sorry mhambone, don't have a clue were we could find that material, but it would be very cool if some one had an idea.

To glue the disk, last time we've talked about it I had one idea, here I know an old shop were they still glue brake shoes using some glue and an oven, that probably would work.


ZAGA

hi mhambone

i had mine apart recently and thought the disc looked very similar to the brake discs and pto clutch engagement disks found in tractors, (fibre friction plates run in oil.)

Im not sure how you would find out the dimensions of the discs or which model tractor to start with .. ... somewhere though there would be one that you could either modify to make fit or just cut one out of a bigger disc.

the other place i would look is on microfiche's of other bikes ... probably somewhere you could find something about right as a separate part.

good luck!
cheers
Bushie

Thanks guys, I'll look into it.