THE WORLDS BEST OIL

Here's some more info on amsoil, specifically for motorcycles. It's the same thing Takis posted but in long form.

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

I don't know but, that document comes from amsoil and must be read with that knowledge. For instance it says "Quantity of zinc content alone does not indicate its performance. Therefore, it cannot be assumed that oils with higher concentrations of zinc provide better wear protection."
and then they STILL include the zink in the rating...
That is just ONE thing that I, a total idiot on oil and chemistry, can see and if I had known a lot I would probably have seen more amsoilities.
Also, check out the scales on some charts in the document.
Some reading?
But then again, who is innocent?

Smorgasbord said:

I don't know but, that document comes from amsoil and must be read with that knowledge. For instance it says "Quantity of zinc content alone does not indicate its performance. Therefore, it cannot be assumed that oils with higher concentrations of zinc provide better wear protection."
and then they STILL include the zink in the rating...

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The sentences preceeding need to also be included. "The most common additive used in internal comubustion engines is zinc dithiophosphate (ZDP). A simple way of reviewing ZDP levels within an oil is to measure the Zinc content. It should be noted that ZDP defines a group of zinc containing containing compounds that vary in composition, quality, and performance. Quantity of zinc content alone does not indicate it's performance. Therefore it cannot be assumed that oils with higher concentrations of zinc provide better wear protection. Additional testing must be reviewed to determine an oil's ability to prevent wear.

To me what that says is that just because you throw a bunch of zinc in an oil doesn't mean that it's going to be good. For example Maxima has WAY more zinc than the others, but it's performance under different wear testing procedures is below that of other oils with less zinc. More so it has to do with the quality of the zinc compound. IE having an understanding of chemistry. The report goes on to further demonstrate wear charachteristics determined by testing methods accepted world wide.

And of course Amsoil's tests are going to be right up there. However, they are using ASTM testing methodology, and the lead testing engineer is backing this up with an affidavit. Which means that he is placing his reputation on the line, and that says something to me. And all of this is of course used for advertising.

There is at least one oil missing from the test and that is motorex which also has a fully sythentic product.

The one thing about sythetic oils that while they are very good, they need to have a very good filtration system to take advantage of their longevity. If you go to the amsoil website those systems are on their home page, and that is really what gets you the extended change interval is being able to filter out the really small particles. My father was part of a jeep trip in the 1980's that went from the tip of Chile to Prudhoe bay Alaska, all the vehicles used Amsoil for this 25,000 mile trip, and never changed the oil once. The motors were subseqently torn down at the end of the trip and found to have less than normal wear. The oil was used in all the running gear as well. This trip experienced total extremes of high heat humid climates, to -75 F in prudhoe bay, and it performed very well.

Really good synthetic oils also are so temp. stable that they need very few polymers to make their Multi Vis grade. The polymers breaking down is what typically causes a multi vis oil to fall out of grade. With no polymers drain intervals can be increased. As much as most people change their oil in Husabergs, I doubt this is much of an issue.
dan

dsducati said:

Really good synthetic oils also are so temp. stable that they need very few polymers to make their Multi Vis grade. The polymers breaking down is what typically causes a multi vis oil to fall out of grade. With no polymers drain intervals can be increased. As much as most people change their oil in Husabergs, I doubt this is much of an issue.
dan

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I'm not convinced that you can extend drain intervals even with synthetics. Infact, AMSOIL recommends changing your oil at manufacturer's intervals for offroad bikes.

10W-40


I know that AMSOIL would last about 5 hours before getting close to shearing out of grade in my '04 YZ250F.

UOA


I did a UOA on my 'berg using the 10W-40
UOA
The fuel % was big contributing factor in the viscosity being low... I've got a new sample of AMSOIL 20W-50 that I'm sending out for a UOA, I'll post results when I get them back.

I'm not advocating extended drain intervals in the 20,000 mile range. Too many bad things can happen when oil filters plug up and go into bypass on a permanent basis. But running say 5000-6000 miles rather than 3000 isn't out of the question.
dan

Enginehardware said:

muckybill said:

Oh yea
If someone can find a way to rip off a customer in the UK they will.
Apart from Norway and Sweden the UK must be the most expensive country to live in Europe.

That aside if the counter price for Amsoil was £11.75/1ltr i would buy some but with mail order no way. Unless Amsoil want to sell it to me cheaper

Bill

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Due to that Sweden is the most expensive country in Europe all of you have to pay for it when the producers lower the price for us.
We pay 6 Euro for Ipone full power kantana 5W-50 fully synth, when we buy it in 20 lit barrel.
Sorry
//Thomas
www.enginehardware.se

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6 Euro for Ipone full power kantana 5W-50 fully synth?, can it really be an ester oil at that price?? or even a PAO oil?? It sounds too good to be true. Isn't it just another hydrocrack synthetic?

Just a quicky question here. Do you know anyone who has used Slik 50 and then burned out bearings? If so please let me know. Thank and regards Thor.

BERGOROADRACER said:

If you are a car owner and you want the best oil for car with NO OIL CHANGES FOR EVER you can check this www.synlube.com but be carefull.this oil does not works with wet clutch of bikes.its too sliperly.

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This earlier post poses some questions.

Didn't know oil could be too slippery but many of you would know more about it than me. I don't think I could get it here in OZ anyway but maybe worth someone contacting them about use in bikes.

This stuff was used in the shuttle !!! The front web page has pics of a bike and quad so not sure if it is too slippery ??

ThorsHammer said:

Just a quicky question here. Do you know anyone who has used Slik 50 and then burned out bearings? If so please let me know. Thank and regards Thor.

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NEVER , how could one of the best oils in the universe be responsible for frying bearings .

i would say that silkolene has saved many bearings from cookin'

im new to husabergs ive just baught a 650fe am useing it on the road so come on which oil should i use will not be raceing it.but will change to off road for some enduro later this year.i have used silcoline in my road bikes for years but only the semi synthetic as full synthetic caused clutch slip on my honda rc45.i live in the uk so some oils are hard to come by i never use slick 50 as i have seen the damage it causes to bearings and it also coats the oilfilter and stops it working properley.if used run the bike till all components are coated then drain and chainge filter and oil run for 5 hrs then change again this shold remove any exses.should be safe to use then as normal.slick 50 totaly destoid an rc45 engin in less than 15 min thats why i wont use it.

gerbil oil is the best. but squeezing out if the little beggars is difficult,messy and cruel which is why its not mass produced.

I didnt acctually read the testing at the begining of this thread, dont have time, but from a personal experiance, at least 7 or 8 years back, we had some bad luck with amsoil. We were talked into trying it at work by a friend. We run small surface mount ski lifts, that are a brigg and stratton v2 engine running a hyrdo pump system, that turns a gearbox and a bog wheel to turn the cable. We tryed it in one of the lifts. While its most likey coincidence, IT was the only life motor we have ever had blow up. THe amsoil gear oil was too slipery and ran out of the seals on the gear boxes, ANd i know we had an issue with the hydo fluid as well. now of course, had the gear boxs been brand new with new seals, it may have been different. I dont know. And maybe things have changed in the last few years. And i also know that the amsoil dealer here in town i believe got about 120,000 miles out of his last couple toyota camerys before the engines were worn out, doing like 20,000 mile or whatever oil changes. MY jeep has 180,000 miles on the orginal engine, with delo 400 oil changes every 3000. our old parts truck(99 ford ranger, 3.0) went 260,000 miles on delo, before finally burning a valve. While i do belive amsoil is good oil, those are just my experiances with it. ANd personally, Oil is cheap...I would still change it every at least 5-6,000 miles. Thats just my unscientific 2 cents.

I run Amsoil in all of my vehicles (even my tractor!), but I have not put it into my 'berg because they don't have a 10W50. However, I got this note back from their tech desk....

" AMSOIL 20W50 Motorcycle Oil (MCV) can be used in all but the coldest temperatures (below freezing). If you are riding in these condition, change to AMSOIL 10W40 Motorcycle Oil (MCF).

Byron Selbrede
Technical Services "

I'm going to go with Amsoil 20W50 when I pull the bike back out in the spring.