stator ohm values

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bergiebearlike

Joined
Dec 13, 2008
Messages
69
Location
uk, lancashire
i know its all on here somewhere but its making my brain hurt looking for it, what are the values for the stator windings on a 2000 engine? the stator is in the outer cover. i suspect it may be kaputt.

there is a tale with this if anyones intrested, i got the engine to upgrade my 97 "pumpless" 600 but when you tryed to start it (the 2000) it litterally tryed to rip your leg off! i mean like one kickback and you got a bruised foot, a few folk tryed it....once! this turned out to be coz it was wired to a early non cdi type coil so i got a s/h cdi off DCR and fitted it, now all i get is a preety lame spark now and again and no start but no pain! think is the sem must of been sparking before to cause the kickbacks but now its just not sparking enough. i wish i kept the old motor! any sugestions?
 
from what i can make out there was nothing wrong with the old unit. you just needed to get it running and then set the ignition timing, idle, the jetting, re-set the tappets, test ride, fettle etc etc.

regards

taffy
 
bergiebearlike said:
i know its all on here somewhere but its making my brain hurt looking for it, what are the values for the stator windings on a 2000 engine? the stator is in the outer cover. i suspect it may be kaputt.

Hi Bergie,

The readings you require are in the Doc under electrical, about 3/4 down the page, but to save you looking here they are;
Black to Red 3000
Black to Green 165.
But just to test the spark intensity, with the plug out and the HT cap off place your HT lead 10mm from the head, keep it away from the plug hole though.
On a normal kick the spark should jump this gap with no problem, if you find you have to kick the hell out of it or reduce the air gap then yes the stator is kaput.
If this is the case I have some rewound stators coming back to Taffy shortly.

Regards

Sparks.
Click to expand...
 
Re: RE: stator ohm values

Taffy said:
from what i can make out there was nothing wrong with the old unit. you just needed to get it running and then set the ignition timing, idle, the jetting, re-set the tappets, test ride, fettle etc etc.

regards

taffy
Click to expand...

what do mean by my old unit taffy? the 600 ran ok and still does, the 2000 engine came with a 94 bike that i sold on with 600 engine, the 2000 engine was for sale on ebay with the 94 bike and i fancyed an oil pump and a hydralic clutch so i bought it and rebuilt it ( it had a bent rod!) the bloke i got it off had had enough of it despite being a bike shop as he couldnt get it going and it kept biting him! while i was biding on it a bloke i know emailed me saying he knew why it was firing like half way down the bore as he had had a similar prob and finally fixed it by fittin the correct cdi unit, i know i need to re jet as its a 501 now and i used the old carb but it just dont spark right, i will bring my meter home from work and measure the values tomorrow.
 
bergiebearlike said:
i know its all on here somewhere but its making my brain hurt looking for it, what are the values for the stator windings on a 2000 engine? the stator is in the outer cover. i suspect it may be kaputt.

there is a tale with this if anyones intrested, i got the engine to upgrade my 97 "pumpless" 600 but when you tryed to start it (the 2000) it litterally tryed to rip your leg off! i mean like one kickback and you got a bruised foot, a few folk tryed it....once! this turned out to be coz it was wired to a early non cdi type coil so i got a s/h cdi off DCR and fitted it, now all i get is a preety lame spark now and again and no start but no pain! think is the sem must of been sparking before to cause the kickbacks but now its just not sparking enough. i wish i kept the old motor! any sugestions?
Click to expand...

my brain hurts too:

your sig says that you have a 98. yet from '97 onn the stator was in the sidecover. you appear to have had the bike kickback which means that the ignition was fighting fit too me. ut then i always was poo at electrics.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
your sig says that you have a 98. yet from '97 onn the stator was in the sidecover.
Click to expand...
up til '98 the stator was on the engine. '99 was that change.
 
RE: Re: stator ohm values

thanks mate, yep, its a 2000 501 in a 97 frame at the mo, BUT i have just got a 98 frame but forget that for now. the stator is in the side cover, at first it was wired to the 97 coil but that caused kickbacks but these were extreme kick backs! so i got a later cdi unit and in theory all should be well but i seem to have a ***** spark now and not even a hint of it starting.......and i left my fooking meter at work!
 
RE: Re: stator ohm values

bergie, Use Sparks' ohm values, they are gold ! Have used them to diagnos 3 SEM stators. Put one of Sparks re-winds in one of them and the owner claims it feels like a new bike. Get a hold of Taffy sounds like he'll have some soon.
Later
Ron
 
Yeah. When they changed the stator mount configuration in '99 its insides changed as well, so the CDI must have also changed to suit. Would definitely have to use a CDI compatible with the stator you are running, I think '99 thru 01 or thereabouts.

Also
bergiebearlike said:
.... i got the engine to upgrade my 97 "pumpless" 600...
Click to expand...
The parts manuals show the '97 was the first to have an oil pump. Are you sure your old engine is not actually a '96? Or perhaps it was not actually pumpless? If it has the oil filter housing it must have had an oil pump to shove oil through it.
 
bundy, my old pumpless motor has gone now, replaced with the 2000 unit, deffo was a pumpless with the reed valve and mesh only filter + a cable clutch, the 2000 motor is now wired to a later and i check its part no with the manual, if you think about it the fly wheel is actuaally reversed so all the ignition would be firing after tdc would it not? anyway the parts are right but it dont start still!
 
just a thought but when got the used CDI unit off DCR it did have diferent connector to the wires from the stator, the stator has indivdual bullets and the cdi had a moulded plastic 3 pin plug, dave said to chop it off and use crimp ons. does this sound ok or could i have a parts compatibility issue? still not tested the ohm values but i dont have any spark at all now it seems (tryed holding the ht lead and nothing)
 
bergiebearlike said:
just a thought but when got the used CDI unit off DCR it did have diferent connector to the wires from the stator, the stator has indivdual bullets and the cdi had a moulded plastic 3 pin plug, dave said to chop it off and use crimp ons. does this sound ok or could i have a parts compatibility issue? still not tested the ohm values but i dont have any spark at all now it seems (tryed holding the ht lead and nothing)
Click to expand...

Hi Bergie,

The cdi's that have a molded plug are generally from the 501, but it will work Ok on yours just remove the plug and use three female bullet connectors.
I have had quiet a few cdi's from Dave and all have been OK. I would probably have to say your stator is up the creek.
What are the reference numbers on the cdi?.

Regards

Sparks
 

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