- Joined
- Mar 17, 2003
- Messages
- 582
- Location
- Waterbury, Connecticut, USA
Okay folks, bear with me on this one. I know it's been covered before, but I wanted to get something straight.
It seemed to be established that I was the Husaberg starting guru at the ECFR. Not sure if it is my young leg, or technique. But, taking age out of the question, I wanted to discuss my technique, and see if the feedback agrees.
There are 2 types of starting to discuss; kick and electric.
Now, I really don't see much difference between the two, regarding mostly anything, but there are differences. First off, we need to establish the obvious:
Valves need to be adjusted properly
Decompressor needs to be adjusted properly
Gas needs to be ON
KEY needs to be ON
Anyone chime in if I have missed something in that list (obvious stuff, not stuff like stator needs be working)
There are a few things I ALWAYS do when starting a bike, hot or cold. One of them is: rub the side of the motor while muttering under my breath "start you %(#*$(, or my friends will laugh at us" (humor stolen from previous post), the other is don't touch the gas at all, and finally, PULL THE CLUTCH. Not pulling the gas is important, because a properly tuned bike, or just about any bike, doesn't need to have this done. If you need to do it, likely factor is your idle speed is out of adjustment, or your idle jet is out of adjustment. Now, pulling the clutch is my little secret, and something I hardly EVER see anyone do. Why pull the clutch? Well, when you start a motor, you are spinning multiple masses, with a large amount of interia. The larger the mass, the less momentum you can maintain. Not pulling the clutch requires you to spin much more mass, with much more friction associated. If you are HE-MAN, go right the chuck ahead. But, if you pull the clutch, you could get that extra half revolution, or 100 RPM needed to get a good spark out of the ignition.
Also, when cold, ALWAYS use the choke. That is why it is there.
This all goes for E-start. Now, kickstarting...
When kicking, standard issue response from everyone hear, one solid kick straight through. Honestly, I hear everyone stating that one should find TDC of the exhaust stroke, but I never do, and am always able to start bikes relatively easily. When I kick start a bike, I always end up giving it 3 straight kicks in a row, one immediately after the other, as if the bike is still spinning when I start the 2nd kick, of course making sure to bring the kickstart back to the top so the decompressor thingy clicks back.
Now, if you have problems with kicking it like this, GET A BIKE STAND. Man does this little detail make a difference. Why? When you kick the bike when it is sprung on the tires, the suspension flexes at each kick. This might rob you of that 100 RPM needed to get things started. Plus, a stand will allow you to balance both feet on the pegs, and relax when you are completely tired and about to vomit from kicking so much. And, it makes the quick-3-succesive kick method much easier.
You might think I am cheating, but most will agree, that once warm, their bike is easy to start, so this mostly goes for cold engines.
My few cents...
Any thoughts???
-parsko
It seemed to be established that I was the Husaberg starting guru at the ECFR. Not sure if it is my young leg, or technique. But, taking age out of the question, I wanted to discuss my technique, and see if the feedback agrees.
There are 2 types of starting to discuss; kick and electric.
Now, I really don't see much difference between the two, regarding mostly anything, but there are differences. First off, we need to establish the obvious:
Valves need to be adjusted properly
Decompressor needs to be adjusted properly
Gas needs to be ON
KEY needs to be ON
Anyone chime in if I have missed something in that list (obvious stuff, not stuff like stator needs be working)
There are a few things I ALWAYS do when starting a bike, hot or cold. One of them is: rub the side of the motor while muttering under my breath "start you %(#*$(, or my friends will laugh at us" (humor stolen from previous post), the other is don't touch the gas at all, and finally, PULL THE CLUTCH. Not pulling the gas is important, because a properly tuned bike, or just about any bike, doesn't need to have this done. If you need to do it, likely factor is your idle speed is out of adjustment, or your idle jet is out of adjustment. Now, pulling the clutch is my little secret, and something I hardly EVER see anyone do. Why pull the clutch? Well, when you start a motor, you are spinning multiple masses, with a large amount of interia. The larger the mass, the less momentum you can maintain. Not pulling the clutch requires you to spin much more mass, with much more friction associated. If you are HE-MAN, go right the chuck ahead. But, if you pull the clutch, you could get that extra half revolution, or 100 RPM needed to get a good spark out of the ignition.
Also, when cold, ALWAYS use the choke. That is why it is there.
This all goes for E-start. Now, kickstarting...
When kicking, standard issue response from everyone hear, one solid kick straight through. Honestly, I hear everyone stating that one should find TDC of the exhaust stroke, but I never do, and am always able to start bikes relatively easily. When I kick start a bike, I always end up giving it 3 straight kicks in a row, one immediately after the other, as if the bike is still spinning when I start the 2nd kick, of course making sure to bring the kickstart back to the top so the decompressor thingy clicks back.
Now, if you have problems with kicking it like this, GET A BIKE STAND. Man does this little detail make a difference. Why? When you kick the bike when it is sprung on the tires, the suspension flexes at each kick. This might rob you of that 100 RPM needed to get things started. Plus, a stand will allow you to balance both feet on the pegs, and relax when you are completely tired and about to vomit from kicking so much. And, it makes the quick-3-succesive kick method much easier.
You might think I am cheating, but most will agree, that once warm, their bike is easy to start, so this mostly goes for cold engines.
My few cents...
Any thoughts???
-parsko