Starting Procedure

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Joined
Mar 17, 2003
Messages
582
Location
Waterbury, Connecticut, USA
Okay folks, bear with me on this one. I know it's been covered before, but I wanted to get something straight.

It seemed to be established that I was the Husaberg starting guru at the ECFR. Not sure if it is my young leg, or technique. But, taking age out of the question, I wanted to discuss my technique, and see if the feedback agrees.

There are 2 types of starting to discuss; kick and electric.

Now, I really don't see much difference between the two, regarding mostly anything, but there are differences. First off, we need to establish the obvious:

Valves need to be adjusted properly
Decompressor needs to be adjusted properly
Gas needs to be ON
KEY needs to be ON

Anyone chime in if I have missed something in that list (obvious stuff, not stuff like stator needs be working)

There are a few things I ALWAYS do when starting a bike, hot or cold. One of them is: rub the side of the motor while muttering under my breath "start you %(#*$(, or my friends will laugh at us" (humor stolen from previous post), the other is don't touch the gas at all, and finally, PULL THE CLUTCH. Not pulling the gas is important, because a properly tuned bike, or just about any bike, doesn't need to have this done. If you need to do it, likely factor is your idle speed is out of adjustment, or your idle jet is out of adjustment. Now, pulling the clutch is my little secret, and something I hardly EVER see anyone do. Why pull the clutch? Well, when you start a motor, you are spinning multiple masses, with a large amount of interia. The larger the mass, the less momentum you can maintain. Not pulling the clutch requires you to spin much more mass, with much more friction associated. If you are HE-MAN, go right the chuck ahead. But, if you pull the clutch, you could get that extra half revolution, or 100 RPM needed to get a good spark out of the ignition.

Also, when cold, ALWAYS use the choke. That is why it is there.

This all goes for E-start. Now, kickstarting...

When kicking, standard issue response from everyone hear, one solid kick straight through. Honestly, I hear everyone stating that one should find TDC of the exhaust stroke, but I never do, and am always able to start bikes relatively easily. When I kick start a bike, I always end up giving it 3 straight kicks in a row, one immediately after the other, as if the bike is still spinning when I start the 2nd kick, of course making sure to bring the kickstart back to the top so the decompressor thingy clicks back.

Now, if you have problems with kicking it like this, GET A BIKE STAND. Man does this little detail make a difference. Why? When you kick the bike when it is sprung on the tires, the suspension flexes at each kick. This might rob you of that 100 RPM needed to get things started. Plus, a stand will allow you to balance both feet on the pegs, and relax when you are completely tired and about to vomit from kicking so much. And, it makes the quick-3-succesive kick method much easier.

You might think I am cheating, but most will agree, that once warm, their bike is easy to start, so this mostly goes for cold engines.

My few cents...

Any thoughts???

-parsko
 
Stand by the bike and kick it with your right foot. Most right handed people have more umph in their right side, but by finding TDC properly I once started my 400 with my hand.
dan
 
Parsko,
IMHO your post is a very good starting guide.
On my '02 650 (electric re-starter removed)
I use the same procedures with good success
...except pulling the clutch...
What a goon I am :oops:
 
Electric start model: choke out, no throttle, decomp lever in, hit start button, let decomp lever go - fire :D
 
My bike is IMPOSSIBLE to start with the clutch engaged. It seems as there is more drag this way.
I do not have E-start though.
 
I´m a real newbie in these fields, but this is my thoughts...

Before I start I keep the fueltaps OFF and kick 5-10 times with open throttle (full gas)... That was told to me by, as far as I know, a wellinformed source. The effect should be to lubricate the enginge a bit before starting.

I then open the fueltaps, put on the choke...

Earlier I had starting problems, I found it hard to find TDC... but then I found out that finding the TDC could take several gentle kickstrokes, you know just slowly pushing thru the kick, before you found it.

So now I push gently (maybe several times) until I find resistance in the kick, then a little moore, as described in the "FAQ startguide" and then let it back to hear the "click" and then I just kick thru. And I´m not strong and I do it with my left leg so I don´t think you have to do it very hard!

Mostly one time is enough, but let say that I reapet this procedur 1-4 times and then I´m ready to rock´n roll.

I agree with Parsko that warmstart is childsplay!

Maybe this thoughts are all wrong?

Would do you say?
 
Find TDC full choke 1 kick (sometimes two) NO THROTTLE.....run for 20 seconds turn choke off......E-Start full choke 4-5 seconds....let run for the same amount turn choke off (NO THROTTLE) when the rad hoses are quite warm I will rev the engine and take off......
Decomp lever is taken off completely.....
For me the FCR Carb works so much better than the Delorto
 
boheme said:
So now I push gently (maybe several times) until I find resistance in the kick, then a little moore, as described in the "FAQ startguide" and then let it back to hear the "click" and then I just kick thru. And I´m not strong and I do it with my left leg so I don´t think you have to do it very hard!



I agree with Parsko that warmstart is childsplay!

Exactly as said in this part by boheme.

Starting when warm for me is sometimes very hard....

Ciao
 

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