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Starting problems off the button again !

Ok, thanks for that Taffy & the gallery Husabutt.
I think I can take that on.
Remove rockerarm cover.
Then am I looking for a loose fit where it seats in the exhaust cam, or wear marks (scoring) or even snapped !
When I lift it to the open position, should it be stiff or slack ?
Sorry I don't know these things - this is my first 4 stroke.
I've been on 2-smoke's for 20 years prior.

Thanks guy's
Ady

Meanwhile, I will have another look round previous postings - it must have come up before.
 
Ady,

When you try to restart after the motor is warm is your ignition switch, on the right handle bar, in the "HI" or "LOW" position? Should be in "HI".

Regards,

Mackberg :D
 
Hi Ady:

You need to read this thread, Starters and Stators, it has good information in it and you will realize you are not alone (me either) in your quest for 01-03 e-start nirvana.

Here is a good shot of a new 03 autodecompression device, lever or bobweight whichever terminology you prefer to use.
03%20decompressor.JPG

The top part of the end of the shaft is what protrudes out of the exhaust cam lobe.

The e-start issue on the 01-03 models is not cut and dry. What works for one does not work for another. There is no definitive fix. Fiddling is the name of the game here. Some have got theirs to work o.k. and some not at all. Don't be disappointed if yours does not work perfectly. Since the 04's and up seem to have the e-start dialed in a combination of certain 04-05 parts may be the key for an off the shelf fix. Adjusting the exhaust valve lift during decompression by welding a blob on it has also worked. Replacing the stock decomp lever has worked too as it is a wear item. It could even be as simple as adjusting your exhaust valves.

Good luck
 
Most of this is getting over my head but here goes.Back when I had a e-start engine and it started acting up :x I would clean all the grounds to and from the starter selond while making sure the metal is shiney.Next I tryed tapping the starter lightly while useing the button.Something else you might do is ask a auto mech. Describe what it does, just don`t tell them its on a bike, and then see what they say.I still think we are overlooking something but what?Best of luck.
 
A quick thanks to all !! :roll:

I'm full of cold at the moment and don't even feel up to playing on my computer. So i'm gonna chillout tomorrow and then get back to testing at the weekend.
Just a quick point - in relation to spark and the cranking revolutions, i have advanced my ignition timing, just to try it.
And with the switch on Lo, twice it fired up when warm off the button - then I ran out of testing time. Still fine on the Kickstart ....
The plot thickens, or was it just luck !!
Be back soon..
Keep your ideas coming, very interesting thread on starter and stators - thanks Husabutt.
Cheeers


Ady
 
Ady

See if you can get an electrical wiring diagram.
I had a problem with electric starting and was put onto this by Twistthethrottle. It was an instant cure.
I may be wrong as the wiring may be different to mine but disconnect the 12v feed from the start switch to the spark module.
It's easy to find- unplug all wiring to module, connect mutimeter to each wire and earth and hit the starter with the ignition on. When you hit the switch one will have 12v. Leave this one disconnected, reconnect the others and happy roosting.
Cheers Ice
 
Thanks Ice
Interesting angle, I will give it a go.
I've nothing to loose.
Will post results

Ady
8)
 
Hi Chaps
This post last ran on Jan 05 and whilst things are managable there not right.
Present situation.
Cold off the button - no chance. Cold and choke on - your avvin a laugh ! Two turns if your lucky.
Kicks off usually after 5 or 6 kicks.

However.
Once she is fully warm ie. 15 mins. Goes off the button superb everytime.
But. Leave her to cool for 5 mins and she only starts off the kicker....

So this to me sais Auto Decomp - again.
I looked at it recently and found it to be quite badly scorred and a very slack fit, but still chose to put it all back together.
I'm thinking out aloud here...
I thought Taffy had taken his out because he found it wasn't necessary when the bike was warm. Suggesting to me that my cold to moderate temperature starting is being compromised due to the worn auto decomp.
Certainly the lack of revolutions off the button when cold and the choke is on, points to there not being enough exhaust valve lift via the cam.

So, if you guy's are agreeing with me then...
As I said earlier the shaft of the auto decomp was a particularly loose fit in my opinion and it appears to be more of an elongation of the hole on the camchain cog rather than the shaft, so I wouldn't gain much from buying a new one. Therefore I fancy this blob of weld idea.
So to those that have done it:-
I presume you blob it on the exposed face when in the open position (as in Husadawg picture 4 of 5 lobe up)?
What type of weld, as this is obviously hardened material. Stick or TIG. If so what rod would you use, because a standard one would surely wear quickly?
How big a blob and how come it doesn't get caught when it free spins back round?
Are there any picky's of this done? I've only found various different auto decomp lobes.
Has there been any problems with the weld falling off ?

Would love some more advice and opinions.

Regards
Ady
:director:
 
I had an 03 fe 501 doing the same thing. I fit an 05 battery in it (YTZ7S)and it wound over better but still didnt start so i put that blob of weld on the decomp arm and replaced the spring as well. that worked for about 300 km then it played up again. so i had a look at the decomp arm again and it had worn the blob of weld off so i inspected the roller bearings and the roller bearing pin had significant wear in it causing it to bind up and stop rolling. this caused the weld to wear off rapidly. so i would check them and replace if necessary.
 

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