Starting a Husaberg

Right where do i start....

I have recently bought a 2003 Husaberg FS650e, when i got it home the battery was flat and i discovered that although the starter motor was attached the cog wasn't inside the block, further investigation from the bike shop that had rebuilt the engine some ago that the starter motor cog had never been installed.

Anyway, i attempted to start it using the kick-start once i had charged the battery and took it out for a spin. Once i stopped and attempted to hot start the bike it took at least 30 kicks until it fired up.
The very next day I purchased a new battery and a new spark plug, It started 2nd kick and off we go. Decided to stop after an hour or so for a pint, loads of people outside looking at the berg. Decided to make a move and i thought hear we go, this is the point where i cant start it, and look a right plank.. Thankfully it started 1st kick

A week later i again took it out. This time it took around 10 kicks to get it going, i stopped a number of times and it took me at least 20 kicks to start. Once its running it flies but starting it is making me mad......

Questions

1 - Is it worth getting the starter cog replaced as i have been told that you need to have a 2004 model or later before a husaberg will start using the electric start.

2 - Any suggestions on why the bike a week later is a pain to start? Battery perhaps? technique?

Carb.

First of all clean the carb.
If it was my bike i would change the needle and the atomizier.
Needle K51
Atomizer DR272
Then change the PJ to 33 and SJ to 40.

The carburator are like a vomen, you never no how to handle them but if give them some new stuff no and then they do almost what they are supposed to do ;-))
Cheers
Jampe

RE: Carb.

Hi Jinbob & Jambe - how about addiing your bike and location to your signature. It helps with the advise etc.

Anyway - open up any post - at the top of the page you'll see a search option - click that and type "Chestnut" You'll find many posts on starting not least mine "The Kick start chestnut". In my case it was just technique - all about finding top dead centre. Finally this was made so easy by changing the auto decomp to a modern upgrade - dutch clog.

RE: Carb.

PS. Not you Jampe - we can see your bikes & location. Sorry.

RE: Carb.

Alright

Thanks for the advice both jampe and arkley, i will give it a go when i return from my holidays.

Im so glad i have found this site... and now know how to use the search function..

RE: Carb.

Next i will hopefully work out how to add my location and bike to my profile

RE: Carb.

Get in there

RE: Carb.

sounds like the bike could be rich at restart when warm.

suggest that you get a new atomiser and needle as well as a 33/35PJ. a beefy starter motor and the dutch clog auto decomp are the other items. this should do it. you also need to modify the ignition timing.

keep the battery charged up.

call me if you want a chat. 01353 723883.

regards

Taffy

I had similar issues with my 400 when I got it. Persevere, cos they're worth it.

When kickstarting it's important to use the right procedure; find tdc on the compresion stroke and use the decomp lever to push the kickstart just past then give it a good kick. It talkes a while to get used to what with the lefty kickstart and all.

Sometimes choke is good. Took me a while to get used to when.

If it don't start after 6 kicks or so I pull the decomp lever and spin it on the starter with the throttle wide to clear out the combustion chamber. Mine never starts on the button. I don't have the dutch clog decomp fitted yet.

If you're running a delorto carb, check that the emulsion tube is fitted. I found this helpful.
http://www.bevelheaven.com/Products/dellorto/phm.htm

Gents

Its been a while but as i have got some time off for Christmas i thought its time to sort the bike.

To cut a long story short:

1 - Re jetted using 35pj and 45sj and replaced the needle and atomiser.
2 - Fully charged the battery
3 - Purchased the dutch clog and spring but havent got the balls to replace as yet. Is their any special tools i need and while the top end is removed is their anything else i should replace?

Anyway. Replaced the jets about a week ago, bike started after about 15-20 kicks. Wheeled it back into the garage for another time.

Yesterday decide to get the bike out and take her for a long ride. 40 kicks later with my left and right leg aching like mad no start.

I whipped out the plug and checked for a spark.

The plug was very black but wet, unfortunately no spark. Tried a number of different plugs and managed to get a very faint spark.

Removed the stator cover and discovered that the stator was very rusty. Cleaned it with wire wool and fine emery.

No spark

Tried removing the spark plug cap and holding the lead against the head - still no spark

Checked the resistance / impedance values on the stator and they read as follows:

Yell/Yell (+) to Blue (-) + 0.03 Ohm
Red (+) to Blk (-) = 2.67k Ohm
Grn (+) to Blk (-) = 155 Ohm

My thinking is that the stator is knackered but the above figures seem ok? Does the above figures sound ok if so why still no spark, what else could it be?

I am working through each item at a time to try and resolve and hopefully get the bike to fire up within the first 3 kicks...... but each time i hit a problem.

I havent tried to call Taffy on the above number yet as i thought i would try and follow the posts on this forum but now i need help?

Does anyone know if Taffy is around tomorrow?

Thanks

Hiya from Brumm
Sounds like your stator has gone.The rust on stator means that: 1) It hasn't been replaced for long time-It still might be a virgin-your bike is 2003 it's long time as for a one stator.Usually they gets knackered after 1-2 years.
2) It means that in ignition cover was lots of moisture, which primary kills the stators.
Yellow to blue it's a charging circuit-doesn't affects spark at all!
I would be more interested with figures around resistances of Red/Black and Green to Black.
Get contact with our UHE stator specialist-Sparks from Spain- He will help you!
Take a note that resistances of trigger might be a different being loaded (with CDI unit)-Don't jump into the conclusion stated that the stator is OK, having resistances from disconected stator.
The CDI unit is usually reliable gismo.
To be sure, disconnect the orange wire, which leads to kill swith and ignition lock.Check spark when orange is disconnected.
If it doesn't help -send your stator to Sparks for rewound.
He done it in mine berg- work perfectly- After rewinding, the spark on plug is so big, that could kill a horse!
Don't panic, we almost all had that issue!

Regards, Kriss
P.S. Nice girl I shagged in Nuneaton!

Sound

I will disconnect the orange wire tommorrow and give it another go.

Sometimes when the kill swith or ignition lock has got a short circuit (often-caused by water ingress)- it can does that there is no spark.To eliminate that possibility- disconnect orange wire.If you still haven't got a spark, sorry, your stator probably gone.

no i'm not here :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

regards

Taffy

Before I finally went with the new dutch clog & taf crescent mod, I was lucky enough to bump into Taffy (who I didn't know at the time), plus Chris from Hit the dirt, both Husaberg owners of some standing, and they both managed to start my bike with relative ease. This told me that it was me & not the bike.

There are so many small things that can make it hard to start that it really pays if you're a newbe to let a pro have a go (not do any work on it) but merely start or try to start it, just so you know. It would be daft to strip down / new stator etc etc when all the time it was technique or some other small thing.

Yesterday I took my 501 to the local MX track - hadn't started it for 7 weeks - stood in damp shed....buggered if it would start...nearly an hour on & off all for 2 backfires. Finallybit the bullet & lifted the tank (always much easier than I expect it to be) - cleaned the plug - flushed through the excess fuel - put it back together - & whoa..started a treat. My pecks & thighs are killing me today...

PS Taffy - battery & e-start totally US but I don't care when it starts from a seated kick.

PS Taffy - battery & e-start totally US but I don't care when it starts from a seated kick.

Click to expand...

what happened there james? i ddnt think you went for the beefy starter?

you're right about letting other people try and start a bike. i have two examples. man brings his bike her from kent and can't start it. he hadn't started it once in three months. even took it to the local garage. started first kick for me.

had peter here saturday, w had the kickstart decomp set up wrng due to a binding cable and i could start it with some difficulty or as happened near the end - twice x first kick. in between, peter kicked the sh... out of it and it would not start. his bike etc yet it wouldn't fire.

kick with your leg and not your body, like you would a 2T but you also have to kick with depth like a 4T. my leg is just a blur of speed AND power!

regards

Taffy

Hi Taffy - if you remember, we didn't change the battery or the starter as they were working OK. Could upgrade to an R6 but as I say - as long as it kick starts I'm happy with that.

Hakan, thanks for the tip - might try that however 1; I never planned to leave it for 7 weeks, just work / family and dark UK winter nights got the better of me and 2; I don't dare say that when I left it to stand, I had just pressure washed it and didn't start it afterwards so there was probably a bit of water in the boot or carb or somewhere (re pressure washing see current thread re prep for salt / sea & beach).

Cheers again for the tips.

Thanks for advice Gents.

I know i definately have a problem when i get no spark this is with the orange kill switch wire disconnected.

I have now sent the stator off to sparks for a rewind, hoping this will solve the problem.

Whilst removing the stator i have noticed that the flywheels plastic coating has worn off in numerous locations. Is this normal or does the flywheel need replacing? I have attached a photo below.

Also whilst reading the owners document on this site i thought it best to remove the top end and check condition of the cam chain + camchain tensioner, valves etc.

I know the engine was rebuilt back in 2007 so thought it best to replace cam chain, tensioner and cam follower bearings + attempt the dutch clog.

Please note i am not a mechanic so your advice / tips on carrying out the above jobs would be very helpfull?

Also in the dutch clog thread i read from Taffy it advises to machine a couple of mm from the cam? Is this definately neccesary?

I have attached some pics below

Also in the dutch clog thread i read from Taffy it advises to machine a couple of mm from the cam? Is this definately neccesary

Click to expand...

prolly not on an '03 which uses the steel cam sprocket which is the same thickness at the cam as the models that came with the "dutch clog" type decomp. when converting the earlier models with the thicker alum sprocket, the cam needed machining to accept the thiinner steel one.