Start you B*%$tard

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Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Messages
18
Location
London England
Hi everyone i`m not new too reading posts on here but this is the first post i`ve added and i need HELP and lots of it... 8O I bought a 2000 Husa 400 off ebay about 8 months ago it was in quite a bad way as the previous owner had knackered the gear selector but kept riding it by slamming it into gear etc.I have completely stripped the bike and rectified all the broken bits at vast expense but its a git to fire up.I can just about get the kickstart to move when i stick 16 stone of foot onto it but it won`t start it seems to lock up then it won`t return to the correct position i`ve had it apart about ten times and put it back as per the owners doc but still getting the same probs i have a 610 tc husky that i can kick start easily but this is a different kettle of fish i managed to tow start it but even then i had to drag it behind a truck and it would only bump in sixth gear it seems like it has the compression of a scania.When it does finally go it runs like a beauty but by then i`m too knackered to ride it...can i convert this bike to an electric start by fitting a starter if so any ideas what will fit it has a blanking plate where it looks like a starter will go but is it possible...also will a keihin flat slider carb off a husqvarna fit the bike as i have a spare one and would it improve things can anyone give me any help on how the auto decomp works as the more i read on here the more confused i get if i can`t work it out soon i`m gonna sell it and my husky and buy a nice reliable jap four stroke crosser by the way this is one of the best bike owner sites i`ve ever been on shame the bikes ain`t as good a quality any advice will be most appreciated cheers everyone :D
 
so it will start if you bump it? and it runs good when it is running, correct? but you can't kick it, It sounds to me like you have a decompression issue, double check the manual and kick decomp levers and their adjustment.
 
Re: RE: Start you B*%$tard

Hi Ginja1000,

Yes it is possible to put an electric start on it but it might be a bit costly,. Does it have the spague clutch assembly and the torque limiter inside the engine, then there is the motor it's self (CBR600will fit) the casting it sits on and finally the battery and solenoid, but like risky says the reason for the big compression will more than likely be the decomp this will have to be set right if you fit a starter motor.

Regards

Sparks.
 
Thanks for your reply...i can bump it but like i say that is a job in itself as the last time i done this i ended up on the deck with the bike being dragged up the road behind a four wheel drive can you explain how the auto decompressor is supposed to work as it seems to do what it should.The manual decomp works fine but i can`t start it with it pulled in i can kick it over with the manual decomp in but as soon as i release it ,it locks up solid the spring and cog and the lobe on the kickstart mechanism all seem to be in good nick but like i say when i put it all together the kickstart will kick thru but then it will return to a different position it seems to go too far forward then it locks up solid but i can then move it with the manual decomp in to get it to a position where it is kickable but then it is half way thru its cycle so i can`t get a full kick out of it i`m at the end of my tether with this bike and i can`t take it out anywhere as i just spend all day trying to tow start it I`m gonna have another go with the kickstart mechanism this weekend as the bike is living at my fathers and i`ll let you know how i get on cheers
 
Re: RE: Start you B*%$tard

sparks said:
Hi Ginja1000,

Yes it is possible to put an electric start on it but it might be a bit costly,. Does it have the spague clutch assembly and the torque limiter inside the engine, then there is the motor it's self (CBR600will fit) the casting it sits on and finally the battery and solenoid, but like risky says the reason for the big compression will more than likely be the decomp this will have to be set right if you fit a starter motor.

Regards

Sparks.
Hi sparks not sure if its got the sprague clutch assembly and torque limiter i`ve decided that i`m not gonna spend any more money on this bike i`m gonna strip the kick start mech this weekend and have another go at it i think the auto decompressor is part of the problem but i`m not sure how it is supposed to work does it just release compression at the very start of the kick or all the way thru are there any pics on the site you can point me in the direction of that will show how the auto decomp works thanks again ginja
 
RE: Re: RE: Start you B*%$tard

ginja

welcome to UHE mate. get the feeling you're oz or probably a brit?

to me, you need to check the ignitionj timing when you get it going. i think it may well be adavanced to some criminal degree!

as cypher once said: it's a bit of the carb, a bit of the decomp or tappets, it's a bit old and bit of something else.

regards

Taffy
 
If this is a 2000 without the factory electric starter, it will not be possible to add one without replaceing the engine cases, etc. The legacy motor is much different than the current model when it comes to e-starter layout.
 
The ignition timing is the only thing I haven`t checked on my bike. I would be willing to say that it might be off some. After reading the above posts I realize that I have over looked a major item. Now I have something else new to learn. To many times one treats the symptom but not the reason why. Thanks you have opened my eyes. :oops:
 
Well you've gotta actually turn it over before timing can be checked so IMHO your decomp systems need to be set up.
Of course I'm assuming it spins over freely with no plug in.
Decomp systems - you have (or should have) 3 of em. Auto on cam, auto on kicker and manual.
I'm also assuming that there are no problems with the kick start decomp mechanism but I reckon the most important one is the cam operated anyway.
Start by slackening off both the cables and slip the spring of the arm.
Check the cam decomp by first by removing all the clearance in your valves and check the amount of lift. Not sure how much lift your year model should have but should be able to find that out in the doc or elsewhere on the site. Prolly the same as mine (01-03) so about 1mm or 40 thou.
Adjust valves using the 1/6 to 1/8 turn method.
Next step the kicker . Get it on TDC or thereabouts so all valves shut.
Adjust the slack out of the kcker cable (kicker all the way up of course) leaving 1 or 2mm freeplay. It should tell you somewhere the correct amount for your model but as long as it's not too tight and hitting the rocker arm or keeping the valves open. Too loose and it won't work.
Lastly connect up the manual cable again leaving a bit of slack. Not too critical here.
Put the spring back on and kick away - from right up the top.
It should kick over pretty easy really.
Coops
 
Hi again all Hi taffy i`m a brit by the way....I`m gonna have a go at the berg again this coming weekend so i`m gonna take in all of the advice i`ve been so kindly given on here with me...i have to leave the berg at my dads as i cant keep it in London cos too many theiving scumbags want to rid me of it so i have to drive for 45 mins to get to the bike...anyway i`m gonna re-assemble the kick start as per the owners doc to make sure all is well here then i`ll have a go at the timing...when i had the bike at my house i checked the timing and it seemed ok but i`ll double check anyway i`ll let you all know how i get on does anybody know of a husaberg dealer/mechanic in the south east london area i could link up with for some help cheers everyone and MERRY CHRISTMAS
 
there were 4 in herts but none of them actually touched a husaberg they were just names. gary grover is at newbury you can try him.

failing all that bring it to me and i'll take a butchers.

regards

Taffy
 
Thanks for the offer taffy if i get that desperate i might take you up on that.I `ll have a go myself first before i resort to any proffessional help i`ve been tearing my hair out on bike engines for as long as i can remember i generally get there in the end.I will keep you posted Thanks again.If the timing was out i would have thought i would be able to feel it in the power delivery but once she gets going there is plenty of poke although i do get a bit of popping at peak revs like its semi hitting a rev limiter although im not wringing its neck could this also be timing related?but it pulls pretty good i can stand it on its back wheel in fourth easy enough and its very responsive...i know i`m waffling but while i got your attention the back brake is super sharp and i read in the doc that i should cut a horizontal line thru the pad material does this work ok or should i be looking at other fixes cheers again Taff and everybody Great site By the way 8) oh and i`ll have a go at the decomp cables as suggested by coastie CHEERS
 
yes taking the middle third out was good and reduced the initial bite.

if you get a missfire at the top end that feels like someone is tapping the kill switch like a metronome every 2 seconds - then you're very rich but it could be many things to be honest.

regards

Taffy
 
Hi Ginga, I've had a berg FE501 for 6 months and am still struggling a bit to start it. If it runs well once started, it could be as simple as your technique. Believe me this is a must and whilst I haven't quite refined mine, I can still guarantee to start it off the kick after about 10 Kicks (used to take 1/2 hour & I'd be purple by the end). Engine must be just past TDC, then a strong forceful push down (no need to be brutal as you might break something) right down to the bottom. If it doesn't start, don't be tempted to keep kicking - just go back to TDC and start again. Mine starts from cold or hot no choke and no throttle, but I do still have to lean it against a wall and straddle it to get the necessary power into the kick. Good luck.
 
They aren't that hard to kick!!!!!
In fact, they are pretty easy.
If you can't start it with 3 maybe 4 kicks tops ...NORMAL kicks, not against a wall or anything.... there is something wrong.
You are either a ***** or should fix the problem! =;
 
i think you're on the right track arkley, i've always needed to stop next to a rock or in a ditch to give me enough leverage to do it right. but then, i'm fat and old.
 
i got **** technique when kick starting thats why i make sure the leccy start works fine, otherwise its usual find something to stand on time.
 

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