well i've fitted a roadbike radiator to the bike! not saying which bike it's from though.
the project has been in the oven for over a year now and i finally got on with it recently. i called and pestered people to measure radiators for me and eventually found what i wanted which was a radiator 2" narrower than the OEM husaberg one.
i picked one up off ebay for £10 and then measured things up. i had a stroke of luck in that the side of the radiator coincided with the third out louvres on both sides.
with the radiator the roadbike way round, there are two side strips with holes in them that very nearly line up with the aluminium dowels through the louvres, but they face backward and not forward also they're not close enough though so i cut the sides off and had new plates made and welded. the roadbike rad has the top exit not on the left but in the middle and the exit points straight back. on the husey it aims at the engine breather housing so i ground that away and welded it up.
the lower entrance is also, like the husey's-on the right. but this time it points out to the right which is unacceptable. so i cut this off, had it welded closed and cut a new hole underneath like the husey's and welded it there.
back to the hole at the hole at the top. this was re-angled down and to the left to help aim the pipe from the waterpump there.
for pipes i kept the standard bottom hose and for the other one i used another bottom hose, cut it in half and put a hollow dowel in, twisted the hose so that it all located well. with a bit of effort i think there will be a production hose out there somewhere that will fit.
two weeks ago i practiced with it and the bike boiled up when coming back in the paddock. the problem appeared to be the 0.9 bar cap fitted which is very low for a dirt bike. dale put me right and said that it was not unusual to go to 2.0 bar so i ordered a 1.4 bar (same as the husey) cap from demon tweeks. however it wouldn't quite fit and i raced last weekend wirth the standard cap. the bike brewed several times i'm afraid....
i had also lost some steering lock due to the huge roadbike type cap. if i'd designed the sideplates on the rad better and their holes, i would have dropped the rad lower by 10mm-this would have avoided the cap to fork leg clash, but after talking to GMX i managed to buy a 'miniature filler' and a 1.6 bar cap.
i had this soldered on this week and pressure tested. all was good!
i heated the rad sidepanels and cut the supporting strip along the back off. this was a mistake. the cowles should still point straight out once past the rad to scoop in the air. this wouldn't have affected the riding experience so when i can afford a new set i'll get some nice yellow ones that i haven't beaten up.
last week i came in with no water in the rad after the 2nd lap. i had cut 2" from a used corner flag from football/soccer as a hollow dowel and figured it could cope with 100d temps. WRONG! it was like twisted licquorice and the two pipes had fallen apart.
to fit the rad is delicate but can be done without being brutal. basically the two sidepanels have 15mm holes that are the same distance apart as the height that the louvre dowels are apart.
i chopped off the portion set for the fourth dowel and re-threaded the dowels. fitted the rad and the holes sit outside of each dowel. i then cut little rubber caps to fit in the rad holes and on the end of the dowels. i then screwed in M6 screws and pressed up with 1" flat washers.
as said, i made a mistake in cutting off the back support strips on the rad sidepanels. a mess really! i lost the outside row of rad 'weave' and so i had put sponge in here, apparently, without support each vertical tube could burst!
i presently have strips of sponge on the outside of the rad between the rad and the rad panels. this will change when i get the proper rad panels again.
i have hooked little bits of rubber through the original rad bolt holes and around the front to the screws i always drill into the rad dowels to stop them turning.
so how does it go?
well the tall seat and the narrower tank made a bigger difference. but it does add to it all. i'm used to it already! i just ride it.
i also noted last week that there was nothing to stop the top of the rad swinging forward so i arildited a 5mm post slap bang middle top and facing forward on the rad. i then put a doughnut bung on this.
the rad cap they sent me has two ears and unfortunately they will touch the tank when trying to unscrew so i may ask if they'll change that.
my concern is the detritus and debris that sits in these old rads! birds, field mice-you name it! they've all lived there!
now i know you'll want photos! but my camera is knackered and none of you would do this anyway so what's the worry hey!!!!
regards
Taffy
PS-it would be really easier a next time and better this time. but that's life!