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Hi
Sorry can't remember your carb/bike
But for general info, the needle will affect the mid range of the throttle, so you might have to make some tests to feel the difference.
If you push the needle down (clip up) you will be leaner or the opposite.
As a guide, first it will be PJ working, then needle, then with everything opened will be the MJ.
One way to test is to try to go as lean as you can, then back off a bit, to be safe.
You should also make only one change at a time, so you don't get confused. Make a change a test the result of it.
Hope this helps a bit
ZAGA
Sorry can't remember your carb/bike
But for general info, the needle will affect the mid range of the throttle, so you might have to make some tests to feel the difference.
If you push the needle down (clip up) you will be leaner or the opposite.
As a guide, first it will be PJ working, then needle, then with everything opened will be the MJ.
One way to test is to try to go as lean as you can, then back off a bit, to be safe.
You should also make only one change at a time, so you don't get confused. Make a change a test the result of it.
Hope this helps a bit
ZAGA
hi sorry just looked and its only got 4 grooves so still dont know will just keep trying to get it right
it on a 2002 fe 400Hi
Sorry can't remember your carb/bike
But for general info, the needle will affect the mid range of the throttle, so you might have to make some tests to feel the difference.
If you push the needle down (clip up) you will be leaner or the opposite.
As a guide, first it will be PJ working, then needle, then with everything opened will be the MJ.
One way to test is to try to go as lean as you can, then back off a bit, to be safe.
You should also make only one change at a time, so you don't get confused. Make a change a test the result of it.
Hope this helps a bit
ZAGA
Thanks
thsnks for thatSorry didn't read your first post with much time
Here you have the needle, it's like this
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2016
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- Location
- Australia, Beechworth, Vic.
Here you have a dellorto manual
It's not specific about your carb, but if you like the subject it's an interesting reading
ZAGA
It's a beauty that one. What more does one need!
I quote that one also when someone needs a hand understanding the circuits.
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2009
- Messages
- 1,386
- Location
- Portugal
Hi
In my view the std jetting should be your starting point, but you also should try to find your bike's jetting.
If you understand what influences what and learn to listen what your engine is telling you, you can fine tune it.
Here you have one example comparing std jetting for 3 years, that basically are to the same engine. Even they made changes from year to year.
This is if you want to take the trouble and the time
ZAGA
In my view the std jetting should be your starting point, but you also should try to find your bike's jetting.
If you understand what influences what and learn to listen what your engine is telling you, you can fine tune it.
Here you have one example comparing std jetting for 3 years, that basically are to the same engine. Even they made changes from year to year.
This is if you want to take the trouble and the time
ZAGA
Attachments
needle
Hello Yozzer. To make life easier, avoid clip numbers. We always say "raising the needle, or lowering the needle". Raising it fattens the mid-range, lowering leans it. In practice, it alters your fuel / air ratio in all throttle positions. Easiest test? Cruise along in a upper gear, then snap throttle to 2/3 open, no more than that. If all is right, bike will pull nicely. To see if it is too lean, do above test, then after 1 second dial throttle back a touch. If bike accelerates at all, needle is too lean. When happy with that, repeat above test, except use wide open throttle to see if main jet is right. Same diagnosis. Added bonus, engine starts and warms up way easier when needle is correct. This routine is exactly what everyone did all the time when struggling to get our over stressed air-cooled super bikes to run right. Then re-adjust the idle-air screw for fastest idle possible, followed by lowering idle speed to normal with idle knob. Yes, we did this on bikes with 6 carbs. Crazy I know. Even worse was mid size bikes where the 4 carbs were crammed in a far to small space. Mind you, these Mikuni or Kehin carbs were great to work with. Delorto carbs on old Ducatis or BMWs took a bit of wizarding to fix. One suspects the same applies today.
Hello Yozzer. To make life easier, avoid clip numbers. We always say "raising the needle, or lowering the needle". Raising it fattens the mid-range, lowering leans it. In practice, it alters your fuel / air ratio in all throttle positions. Easiest test? Cruise along in a upper gear, then snap throttle to 2/3 open, no more than that. If all is right, bike will pull nicely. To see if it is too lean, do above test, then after 1 second dial throttle back a touch. If bike accelerates at all, needle is too lean. When happy with that, repeat above test, except use wide open throttle to see if main jet is right. Same diagnosis. Added bonus, engine starts and warms up way easier when needle is correct. This routine is exactly what everyone did all the time when struggling to get our over stressed air-cooled super bikes to run right. Then re-adjust the idle-air screw for fastest idle possible, followed by lowering idle speed to normal with idle knob. Yes, we did this on bikes with 6 carbs. Crazy I know. Even worse was mid size bikes where the 4 carbs were crammed in a far to small space. Mind you, these Mikuni or Kehin carbs were great to work with. Delorto carbs on old Ducatis or BMWs took a bit of wizarding to fix. One suspects the same applies today.
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