Revloc dyna ring

well i've just bitten the bullet and ordered one.

been um'ng and aah'ing for a while and a couple of things fell into place being that i'd sold the trials bike and a set of wheels in the last month so had a little bit of spare cash.

I had asked my local rekluse dealer for a price and was also waiting to see what the 2st's were like when they came out. when both came back with replies that didnt float my boat i thought what the hell and ordered a revloc.

hopefully it should be here in time for me to fit and tackle some of the trick going that i was playing on last weekend when i'm back up that way in a few weeks time.

should give me a good idea of the way it effects the bike and if i have to alter how i ride at all.

think what sold me on it for the berg was the external adjustment and the fact it seems to be the easiest of all the variations of auto type clutches to fit.

here's waiting....... :bounce:

as for batteries and new 09 on husabergs: when i disconnected the battery of my FE 570 while engine was running at 3000 rpm the engine died! :angry:

jockular said:

Regarding the bumpstart for you people with fancy new bikes, as long as you can get a decent bump, i.e a good down hill, even on a totally flat battery you should eventually get it going as long as your altenator is in good fettle and battery conections good. It will need to get above a minimum threshhold voltage of 6v(?) but then should splutter in to life.
I've seen it on motronic (car) systems which to me looks pretty similar and weve always got them going via a tow.
och aye.

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Hey if you tow start a car with a "totally" flat battery, in most cases the Alternator wont work as it needs a tiny bit of current to excite the Alternator. This is usually fed via the battery and ignition light. "Most" Car Alternators don't have any permanent magnets and the tiny bit of current is used to start the magnetism thingy happening in the Alternator rotor. Bikes have magnets in the Flywheel so they will generate power with a flat battery.

There is a set of contacts in the Voltage Regulator in the 2009/2010 Bergs that have nothing to do with the Volatge Regulation. Not 100% sure how they work but I suspect they have something to do with Bump Starts not working. Going to do some more testing when my subframe tank gets here.

suhoi27 said:

as for batteries and new 09 on husabergs: when i disconnected the battery of my FE 570 while engine was running at 3000 rpm the engine died! :angry:

Click to expand...

Not surprising. Also, doing that can fry the alternator.

suhoi27 said:

as for batteries and new 09 on husabergs: when i disconnected the battery of my FE 570 while engine was running at 3000 rpm the engine died! :angry:

Click to expand...

so what were you trying to do by disconnecting the battery?

i would have expected it to stall to be honest as you basically removing a link in the electrical system.
Removing the battery isnt the same as having a dead battery incase that is what you were trying to check out

Revloc Dyna ring page

Well its arrived, 3 days from the states!, parcels within the UK usually take longer than that!

No customs duty, nice.

Worked out at £315 including shipping



Anyway fitted in nicely apart from a little hiccup,

It came with 3 springs fitted as standard, but I decided to fit 4 from the word go as one of the berg riders in the states has experimented with all the spring combinations and ended up with 4 out of a maximum of 6 available



So I arranged the springs and went to torque then up to 30 in lbs, 3.3 nm, luckily I got a torque wrench for the mountain bikes that goes that low, anyway the bolts must be made of butter!!

1 snapped off leaving the threaded section in the Dyna ring, luckily it just took 5 mins with a dremel to drill it and get an extractor into it to get that out but the hex heads on two of the other bolts started to round out, and this was using brand new hex bits not some knackered old ones.

Ho Hum.



Got it all fitted and also fitted the adjuster so now it was working fine around the garden.



haven’t quite got it set perfect though as when I pull the clutch lever in and rev it it still wants to go so will sort that tomorrow, had to give up tonight as just fitting this was enough to set my ribs off following my prang on the 4th.

Dropped Revloc in the states an email to make sure I was going to be doing the right thing by installing the extra included washer to sort out the clutch lever not over-riding the auto clutch and they replied in 45 minutes and even offered to send me replacement bolts.

cant argue with service like that.

hopefully I’ll be fit enough to take it for a good shake down soon.

PS none of the photos are mine i've just pinched them from the web, there is no need to remove the basket to fit it and i takes about 30 minutes to fit the whole set up first time.

I've installed one on my '09 FE450 and put about three hours riding in some pretty difficult terrain. As an auto-clutch it works well. I was impressed with how smooth it made power transfer over very rough and rocky terrain. When riding, the clutch lever override really wasn't something you could rely on to give an extra squirt of power, so I quit trying to use the lever for that purpose. It was the first auto-clutch setup I've ridden, but the adjustment period was very short, I just clamped my left hand on the bar and didn't uncurl my fingers for anything. If I could work the clutch that smooth I'd be a much better rider, it was kind of cool to have the bike do it perfectly for me.The only downside for me was not being able to lock the rear wheel by killing the engine; getting stuck on a steep hill and trying to turn around was frustrating. No wonder LHRB is on tip of everyone's tongue. Switching parts back and forth between stock and auto takes about fifteen minutes. Bottom line, the Dyna Ring is a reasonably priced product that works VERY well as an auto-clutch and retains the ability to bump-start your bike if need be.

well nearly had a disaster tonight.

sorting out the fine tuning of the clutch i put in the additional washer onto the clucht push rod and still wasnt happy with the take off at low revs with the clutch pulled in so i thought what the hell and fitted the second that came with it.

mmmm slight mistake.

seemed fine at first then the clutch lever pulled back to teh bars like teh seal had just popped and there was a screeching from the clutch.

i stopped the engine, looked at the bike and just walked away for a cup of tea.

After an hour came back and pulled out the clutch pack, immediatly saw the problem the second washer had made the gap between the pressure plate and the top most plate so wide that it allowed the plate to become displaced and hold the pressure plate open!

removed the second washer and all seems well.

turned my tickover down quite a bit as well as it was previoulsy a bit high to avoid stalling and this has helpd alot.

still wants to take off when you rev it in gear with the clutch pulled in, unlike the yzf in the Revloc video which doesnt move at all, but isnt creaping at all when your sat with it in gear and the manual clutch does seem to be overiding in all other circs.

just need to get out on it now to give it a proper test.

next race entered is 12th September but there are a few between now and then that i might race or marshall.

Hey cypher,

First off, glad you shut her down and got that figured out! Secondly, if the bike is wanting to take off your gap is still too tight. Just give it another half or full turn. If you have bottomed out the plunger pull off the cap and chances are that the cylinder is about halfway down and you'll need to top it off. Once done this will give you more threads to be able to wind the cap down.

I like mine adjusted to where with the clutch pulled in and you rev it up it will just start to lurch but in no way take off.

Your bike wanting to go with the clutch pulled in is a common thing I've heard and all that is usually needed is another turn to get your gap right. The DR actually throws out quite a bit so the gap can be fairly liberal. With that you want to just make sure it's not slipping (rpm increase but not corresponding thrust). Once you get it dialed it's easy to reproduce and your confidence will grow if you ever have to disengage it to bumpstart. I haven't touched mine in 5 or 6 hours now. It seems to be "settling" in just fine.

Good luck and shoot me an email or pm if you have any addtional questions.

well first ride out to day only a short blast after work and before tea, mile or so up the road, over a couple of fallen trees and short bit of single track then back the same way.

i have a habit of pulling taller gears so with the 4 springs and the soft g2 throttle cam i had to be quite aggressive with the throttle on the road to get the clutch up to speed otherwise it was wanting to slip all the time either that or I had to be in a gear lower than i normally would be.

Hopping over the trees, didnt notice any difference from a normal clutch here.

They were just fallen pines about 18" tall and the bike just hopped over them as normal. my only qualifier to this is that unlike alot of people i've never really used the clutch for lifting the front wheel, even when i was on a 250 2st, i just tend to select appropriate gear, blip throttle, tug bars and i'm over, so perhaps thats why i didn't notice much difference but it's also an indicator, i think, that the clutch will bite quicky if required to.

On the trail again had to be quite aggressive with the throttle otherwise the clutch was wanting to slip, though alot less than on the road.

The clutch has really smoothed out the power delivery on what was already a pretty smooth engine.

At the moment i'm just debating whether to stick the standard g2 throttle cam in, pull one of the springs out of the clutch or both to try and lower amount of slipping, the amount there is isnt a problem but id just like to try a bit less.

Yeah you might want to try 3 or even 2 springs. 2 is near instant lock-up. The beauty is how fast you can break it down and try different spring settings. Good luck!

I'm going back to 3 springs on mine (ktm 450 exc-r)

I had to use 2 of the thrust washers, and I made sure there's no air gap in the adjustment cylinder, and I still have to completely bottom out the adjusting screw, and I get a just barely noticeable creep at idle

I wonder if 3 thrust washers would fix it? I cannot adjust it down that far by hand, I have to use a pliers and cloth over the adjusting nut

clutch feel and override are excellent nothing like my rekluse pro (wet noodle soft at idle)

Anybody here who could explain the differences between:

Revloc DynaRing
Revloc Clutch
and the Revloc LT?

I am on the verge of placing an order for the DynaRing with the handbrake set.
But perhaps all I need is the Revloc LT?

Am I missing something here?

I just installed my Revloc Dyna ring in my '09 570. But I did not see any sort of adjustment cylinder? Is this something I needed to order separate (in addition to) my Dyna ring?

I too put both thrust washers on. However, when I torqued down my pressure plate, fluid squirted out of my clutch reservoir??? Normal?

I'm approaching being out of my depth on this one, and I'd love to ride tomorrow. Any advise would be great!

Thanks

PS Sorry to resurrect a super old post.....