ReKluse Clutches

I've just bought a Z start pro and am about to fit it. I am going to keep my clutch for now but it looks as though alot of people end up fitting the LHRB to their bikes, which I can see the advantages of. The way they seal off the clutch slave cylinder off on the Rekluse site looks very agricultural. I also am abit aprehensive about changing gears without using the clutch lever to take the load off of the gearbox.
Any Rekluse owner feedback?

I have over 30,000 miles on three Revloc auto clutch bikes, all with the LHRB and no manual clutch. Shifting without the clutch has been no problem at all and with no apparent damage to the gears. I don't speed shift. For upshifts, just back off the throttle and shift. For downshifts, I'll often give the throttle a little blip.

Converting to the LHRB is an absolute must, and I should add that I have never experienced any rear brake fade or loss of braking power. I have never missed the absence of a manual clutch on any of these three bikes, even the smaller HTR 350.

Delete.

Forgive me if I'm a bit slow but i'm sure there are many that are wanting to ask this stupid question:

Can you guys give some examples of what the rekluse actually does?
1) I do a heap of hill climbing, how will it help?, what will it do?, does it effect down changes of gear?
2) What will it do in sand?, what happens when you break traction in sand?
3) How does it assist downhills (I hate these!)

Thanks in advance.

Listerwa said:

Forgive me if I'm a bit slow but i'm sure there are many that are wanting to ask this stupid question:

Can you guys give some examples of what the rekluse actually does?
1) I do a heap of hill climbing, how will it help?, what will it do?, does it effect down changes of gear?
2) What will it do in sand?, what happens when you break traction in sand?
3) How does it assist downhills (I hate these!)

Thanks in advance.

Click to expand...

What it does.
No stalling.
Allows you brake slide at will with no stalling.
You can actually brake slide into a corner , roll the throttle and essentially sling shot out of a corner.
Hill climbs are easier, you don't worry or have to contend with clutch modulation. It also allows you to fully grip the bike with both hands. Great if you are old fat and out of shape like myself.
You can usually stop in the middle of a climb and take off again. just roll the throttle and climb up (traction permitting).
No left arm/hand cramps from modulating the clutch in long tight sections. Again it allows you to hold onto the bars with both hands.
Downs hills. I usually like to coast down technical hills. easy enough, just idle down the hill. If you want engine braking just blip the throttle once and you have it.
The LHRB is an added benefit to having an autoclutch.
No searching for the rear brake pedal.
You can right hand brake slide with the foot off the peg.
Going down steep rutted out hills you can remove your right foot from the peg if needed and still have rear brakes.
No rear brake pedal to get ripped off.
You can essentially use the rear brake like traction control if you get unwanted wheel spin.

Down sides to the autoclutch.
Cant bump start the bike.
No clutch to get the front end up at inoppurtune momments.
No engine off engine braking.

These are just a few example off the top of my head.

I have a Rekluse on my Hussy. The Z-start pro. I kept the clutch at first, but now that I have the LHRB I am taking the clutch off.

BTW - I recommend the Husaberg LHRB instead of the Rekluse LHRB - for the same money the Husaberg (Magura) LHRB is better. I wish I had known it existed before I bought the Rekluse LHRB. Oh well.

Anyway, the main thing is the Rekluse let's you concentrate on riding the bike, modulating the throttle and not having to modulate the clutch. I mostly do tight woods riding, not enduro or MX. The Rekluse helps for hill climbing or any other place where you are going to be shifting or working the clutch to get over something. Whenever I watch a vid of some guy going over a tough section or having to stop on a hill or something like that, and having to work their clutch, having the bike jerk around, etc. - I just think of how much easier that would be with a Rekluse.

I have my bike setup such that the clutch engages just above idle and moderately firm engagement. I also have the idle set low. This way I keep compression braking going down a hill. There is a big misunderstanding about Rekluse clutches: they do provide engine braking as long as you are above the RPM where the clutch would engage. My setup is such that the clutch is always engaged when I am riding. The only time I have to blip the throttle is when I have stopped completely on a downhill and I am then moving forward.

I have only stalled the bike once with the Rekluse - I hit a big root/rock/something solid with the bash plate and it stopped the bike dead (I ride slow) and the engine itself stopped.

Already mentioned - brake sliding without stalling. Other modes without stalling. It is not a slipper clutch - once engaged it is engaged, although it will slip a bit when you first start out.

Popping wheelies - no problem for me, but I rarely do that anyway. If you want to keep the clutch lever you can, but you can't do both LHRB and clutch easily without a lot of expense (there is a $1200 lever to do that - too much in my opinion).

The main thing I don't like is that I can't bump start the bike. That combined with the fact that I don't have a kickstart is worrying, but so far not a problem.

do they handle abuse er um slipping, better than the OEM clutch ?

3 or 4 3rd gear starts on the beach and my OEM clutch warps the steels, they come out blue.

bushmechanic said:

do they handle abuse er um slipping, better than the OEM clutch ?

3 or 4 3rd gear starts on the beach and my OEM clutch warps the steels, they come out blue.

Click to expand...

No.

A drawback to auto clutches is that burning out clutch plates is easy to do if you consistently run the clutch one or two gears too high. Its easy to do as the auto clutch smoothes everything out. But if the clutch plates are constantly slipping, the plates will burn out just as they would with a manual clutch.

slipping aside; its (rekluse) not bigger diameter or has any more plates ?

bushmechanic said:

slipping aside; its (rekluse) not bigger diameter or has any more plates ?

Click to expand...

Correct. It uses the stock friction plates.

You can't purposely abuse the Rekluse and expect it to do better at wear. At the same time, when you are working the clutch a lot in and out over rough terrain while going slow, the wear is probably going to be better than moderating the clutch by hand. I have more than once seen a clutch get way overheated trying to get a bike over an obstacle with a regular clutch. I haven't yet with the Rekluse.