recluse what?

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L

lvspeed

Joined
Dec 6, 2016
Messages
74
Location
Port Moody, BC, Canada
Greetings Husabergs! All I see now is Recluse kit this, Recluse installed on my 2019 Husky 350, it`s way better now that. Is this a clutch assist thing? I always thought the clutches worked fine. Has something changed? Sounds like you can stop on the trail, leave your 500 mx bike in gear and walk around, climb back on and just gas it. Sure my 2001 isn`t real happy about finding neutral with the idle high. Is that what it helps? We used to call that experience, learning to shift for yourself. Is a thousand bucks considered a good deal for these? Better get one then. :confused:
 
The Rekluse is an auto clutch, put your bike in gear twist the throttle and away you go. You'll still need to move the little gear lever thing yourself with your left foot.
They help with reducing arm pump, especially if you ride or race in tight woods and make your bike pretty much stall proof.
Also supposed to help with traction but never found that myself.
Definitely won't help you find neutral with the engine running though.

As for parking up and walking round your bike on the trail.......not sure why you'd want to do that but you could if you wanted ;)

Also some people put the rear brake where the clutch was and have a hand rear brake.

Is it worth $1000? You'll only know by trying one, you'll either love it or hate it.
 
plumbbob, regarding traction; if you go one gear higher than you normally would the rekluse/clutch will work constantly and that will soften the force to the back wheel. Works a treat when I drive in gnarly slippery terrain with my 570.
 
Thank you, got it now, mostly. One wonders if it will cause a ban in competition or class division. As you say, it would seem a big help in a really filthy enduro. Still, way back when, we used open class mx bikes for trail riding for awhile, and they worked fine, up to a point. I did note a friend`s Yam DT200 (tuned) managed to do almost the same thing with far less commotion. So if controllability is the goal, Rekluse away! L
 
Think of it like a snowmobile. Works differently but acts the same. I hate them and would never think of putting one in my 350, but that's personal opinion. Nothing like having to put throttle on coming down a super steep sketchy hill of shale to keep the clutch from free wheeling. Think of putting your bike in neutral coming down the steep hills as that is what happens.
As Plumbbob said: You either love them or hate them. I think its a 50/50 split on this one.
 
The new EXP is not to be confused with the old ones, the EXP is light years better, and the cost for it is around 500 usd. With the EXP you wont get the effect of freewheeling down the hills like the old ones. I think its a very good product although I dont use one.
 
lvspeed said:
Thank you, got it now, mostly. One wonders if it will cause a ban in competition or class division. As you say, it would seem a big help in a really filthy enduro. Still, way back when, we used open class mx bikes for trail riding for awhile, and they worked fine, up to a point. I did note a friend`s Yam DT200 (tuned) managed to do almost the same thing with far less commotion. So if controllability is the goal, Rekluse away! L
Click to expand...

I ran a rekluse in racing competition for around seven years. it only ever helpwed once other than the obvious.

i got stuck in a rut and couldn't change gear as the rut was over 60cm deep. so I got off the bike and just pulled it out via the front wheel while it was on tickover. I then jumpoed on and rode off-the marshal was incredulous!

needles to say, next time around, I avoided THAT rut.

regards

Taffy
 
If you get one. Make sure you get the rear brake on the handle bars. More $$$$ Some times you'll need it. Over all for Me it's 90/10 love/hate. Anywhere you need the clutch a lot you'll love it. Down hill compression is real good with engine on has never been a problem for Me. But stuck on hill you can't make and you're trying to turn around with engine off is a problem that Rear brake on bars is a help is a help there and can't be bump started without some fiddling then after undoing That fiddling. For real high speeed stuff compression braking not so good. Hope this helps. Taffy I don't know that helpwed or tickover are?? Tried looking them up with no luck???
 
Last edited:
if you had had a Jag-u-R you would know!

I do a clutch mastercylinder to brake mastercylinder conversion kit for just a few dollars. I also do the pipe to the rear brake caliper.

regards

Taffy
 
Not sure about other models but my Z start gives full engine braking downhill etc.
The only thing i can't do is bump start it but i've never needed to so never been a problem.

Go give one a try lvspeed.
 
Rainerio said:
If you get one. Make sure you get the rear brake on the handle bars. More $$$$ Some times you'll need it. Over all for Me it's 90/10 love/hate. Anywhere you need the clutch a lot you'll love it. Down hill compression is real good with engine on has never been a problem for Me. But stuck on hill you can't make and you're trying to turn around with engine off is a problem that Rear brake on bars is a help is a help there and can't be bump started without some fiddling then after undoing That fiddling. For real high speeed stuff compression braking not so good. Hope this helps. Taffy I don't know that helpwed or tickover are?? Tried looking them up with no luck???
Click to expand...

May I know what rear brake part on the handlebars? Where can you get this lever?

Thanks.
 
Rekuse makes one for about $300.00 USD I've see others but don't know about them. In an other post Taffy said he has one.
 
Don

I think you misunderstood it mate? he means that he went to left-hand rear brake (LHRB) and has no clutch at all. you see, you can convert your clutch master cylinder to a brake master cylinder and then you simply get a pipe to the rear caliper and bleed brake fluid through it. you leave the clutch slave on the engine to keep the engine oil in and you dismantle the original rear brake M/C and footlever.

OK mate?

you'll need a new anti-slosh rubber inside the clutch M/C and a new piston and seal that can deal with brake fluid instead of the present mineral oil.

OK with that?

regards

Taffy
 
I forgot to mention the model year,'08. I did call Recluse and left a message, but no one has called back.
 
the rekluse wsn't really strong enough for the 650, certainly never on the dirt. never. just too much torque for it and rekluse would say an emphatic: 'No! Sir!'.

Taffy
 
He's right. I've got one. You have to baby it under 5000 rpm
 

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