One big oily jigsaw puzzle

70marlin · Oct 13, 2004

Well T-jet I think I've found out where all the metal was coming from :cry: Note: my 02 FX470E has over a 1000 miles on it this summer alone. Last weekend I was on a CCC trail tour in Kalkaska MI. I put over a 100 miles on the old girl. The first day, I was ridding the bike like I stole it! Day two out for a nice little thirty mile loop, before I head home. I dumped the bike in some deep sand, and it wouldnÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t start on the button, locked up tight, even with the foot button? Fast forward to last night. Engine out of frame. Side covers off. Valve covers off, every thing looking good, except metal is every where in the clutch side of the case? Auto timing chain tensioner all the way extended? Timing chain loose? The oil pump reed valve has a very large piece of steel sticking out it :cry: after removal of reed valve, the metal looked like a piece of a bearing cage. I go straight to the counter shaft. Very loose and way too much movement. I found the failure! Make a long story shorter head & valves OK. Split cases etc. etc. counter balancer damaged, and counter shaft driver bearing destroyed. Balls in bottom of case jammed into counter balancer.
With everything apart and a complete inspection, the source only metal in the oil screen that I could find was.
1. Kick starter spring installed incorrectly in case.
2. Failed counter shaft driver bearing.
3. Kickstarter decompression lever dog is chewed up a bit.
4. Slightly galled engine case from timing chain.

t-jet-tim · Oct 13, 2004

:evil:

70marlin · Oct 14, 2004

Only after you wad your engine. Hey if your technically unable to do your repairs. You should burn your bike up to Andy at Euro motors and have him check it out! The cost of the parts really surprised me on how inexpensive they were.

Item #9 350008-01 Seal ring 25x40x7 Ã¢â‚¬Å“Flywheel sideÃ¢â‚¬Â

t-jet-tim · Oct 16, 2004

I have used mineral spirits without any
problems.I usually get the kind that are
recommended for parts washing tanks.
Solvox 140 works good.

70marlin · Oct 28, 2004

SHE LIVES!

Well after wading my engine 18 days ago. (Counter shaft driver bearing failure) She up and running! I fired her up last night. It wasnÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t the first kick start that the old KDX two smokes would do after a rebuild. But after about 7 or 8 kicks (never used the E button) she fired up and ran just like she always has

I could have had the rebuild complete Monday night but with all the kid activities I just didnÃ¢â‚¬â„¢t have the time. ThereÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s still some fine tuning to do. Tonight I will be on the Gravel pits walls dyno'ing her, I'll see if it has the same power :twisted: Note: Thank you all for the support and the information that you & this site has giving me! :signthanks: again!

tm-enduro · Oct 28, 2004

70marlin
So you had a failure of the counterbalancer auxilliary shaft bearing only. Did you remove the counter balancer? You stated that you replaced the timing chain, but not the sprockets? I presume that you must have a new steel cam sprocket?

70marlin · Oct 28, 2004

Among other pieces. New reed valve, crank bearings & seals, cam bearings, double row counter balancer, steel cam gear, upgraded 03 rocker arms, most internal o-ring's. The whole experience wasn't all that bad, parts came quick they weren't to expensive. High quality. Even some factory freebies "warranty up grades" There was a few thing's THAT I"D LIKE TO SEE CHANGED. The factory manual need to be rewrote by somebody who writes technical manuals! And better close up pictures. Better descriptions on how to do the timing of the crank & cam. Maybe a few timing marks to make the job easier. Also the kick starter was harder to install correctly then really needed.

tm-enduro · Oct 28, 2004

OK, I was worried that you did a minimal job of changing only what broke. Do you have a repair manual? I have a parts book and owners manual, but nothing about how to repair.

70marlin · Oct 28, 2004

Yes I have the OEM manual for what's it worth. They have you doing a lot more hammering then I really care to do on precision bearings. I think I'm going to purchases an arbor press. That's the method I've always used and prefer. The heating of the cases and gears worked well I'll have to admit.

mikst · Oct 28, 2004

Down load the -04 workshop manual at Husaberg.se. That one is good. The 01-03 workshop manual you can only use to get the right values.

t-jet-tim · Oct 28, 2004

:roll:

70marlin · Oct 29, 2004

Tim, this time the king and his men put Humpty Dumpty back together, and better than ever. I think a better analogy, would be the "Six million dollar manÃ¢â‚¬Â

tm-enduro · Oct 29, 2004

Thanks to mikst, I have finally downloaded the '04 manual. It is 116+/- pages and is actually quite good. The 'berg motor is actually quite basic and easy to work on. I noted a few changes in the '04 motors, indicating that the engineers at 'berg are not sleeping. Things like bleed hole in the head for coolant, and the ability to lock the crank in place with a bolt. A review over the last couple years of Husaberg breakage brings to light a couple of common threads. If the CB is removed and the crank balanced, and the cam is replaced with a LR cam, the issues of breakage are nil. I was told once that "a CB is a bad solution (cheap) to a balance issue. An unbalanced crank is spinning in one direction trying to shake the motor apart. A CB is another mass spinning in the opposite direction also trying to shake the engine apart." Flat-trackers and minisprint drivers know this already.

70marlin · Oct 29, 2004

I've always wanted the real poop on just what would happen if you removed the counter balancer. Ã¢â‚¬Å“How the engine would hold up for the long term owner?" Removal of the counter balancer is only half of the problem though. What about the counter shaft bearing failures? How does KTM do there counter shaft and bearing?

PowerFiend · Oct 29, 2004

70marlin said:
How does KTM do there counter shaft and bearing?

t-jet-tim · Oct 29, 2004

:roll:

PowerFiend · Oct 29, 2004

70marlin said:
I've always wanted the real poop on just what would happen if you removed the counter balancer. Ã¢â‚¬Å“How the engine would hold up for the long term owner?" Removal of the counter balancer is only half of the problem though. What about the counter shaft bearing failures? How does KTM do there counter shaft and bearing?

It looks like the pre-2001 Berg motors without electric start did not have a counterbalancer. I have some pics of the motor and also double checked against the 1999 parts guide.

Palm · Oct 29, 2004

Hi
I have removed my CB and rebalance the crank
It should be the same like a older Berg so far no problem.
I have a image in my gallery
Palm

70marlin · Oct 30, 2004

Thanks Palm I'll take a look! From the first image they do it completely opposite than the way my 02 is? They drive the balancer with the mass of the crank. And my balancer is on the crank driven by an auxiliary shaft driven by the crank. I need to digest this for awhile?
Palm: I've had a chance to look over your pics. Well done, was the pic of your timing taken at top dead center? If so my cam timing might be one tooth ********? With the pic in the manual and there description. I made my center line just off the center of the radiator fill tube to the right. The bike runs fine. It just that the starter is weaker than normal?

Palm · Oct 30, 2004

Hi
I hade the it att TDC and the cam bolt 90 degres from the suface.
The mark on the gear may not be right it depends on the lower spoke
Palm

One big oily jigsaw puzzle

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