Really appreciate the response. I have a couple of other issues that it will be going to the dealership on. Glad to hear it is not a big issue. These forums are great and again thanks for the info.
After reading the discussions on what is the proper mineral oil for hydraulic clutches, I have noticed that many of the KTM riders at KTMTalk and ThumperTalk use ATF or even 5 wt fork oil as a suitable substitute for 'mineral oil'.
After reading the discussions on what is the proper mineral oil for hydraulic clutches, I have noticed that many of the KTM riders at KTMTalk and ThumperTalk use ATF or even 5 wt fork oil as a suitable substitute for 'mineral oil'.
Yes, they do. The top of the master cylinder reservoir says "Use Only Mineral Oil." That's the manufacturer's specification. You, like they, can depart from that specification if you like. It's your bike, and if something in the clutch system fails (seals, for example) due to use of incompatible fluid, the costs associated with the repair will be yours to bear. It's a simple matter to go to your KTM/Husaberg dealer and buy a bottle of mineral oil. Question: Since there's a fair amount of money at risk if you're wrong, why would you depart from the manufacturer's specification in favor of the word of a bunch of on-line strangers that you've never met?
The actually European definition of "mineral oil" and the actual contents of most fork oils is the same. The fork oil I use is compatible with European "mineral oil".
How many different weights of fork oil are available versus mineral oil?
What "weight" of fork oil equates to the appropriate mineral oil product?
What is the boiling point of fork oil versus mineral oil?
Why not simply obtain the proper product?
