none believer in synthetic

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ok cool so that would be part reason why the wear was better in on the left in the pic you posted, might have to get some of that when i get motor rebuilt by orange john.
 
pretty sure the 550 big end is OK, the one I've got (550) doesn't have any silver plating

I use moreys because I like the clutch better with it in

the wear properties cusioning cling and high temp visosity stabilisation etc im sure are nice too
 
sickd said:
ok cool so that would be part reason why the wear was better in on the left in the pic you posted, might have to get some of that when i get motor rebuilt by orange john.
Mooreys its good stuff but i havnt seen it for years since we were an agent for it in the shop where i done my apprenticeship back in the 80s, you cant go wrong using it but dont think more is better i ran the percentage to high once a long time ago in my 2 stroke days and could not shift gears, just use whats recommended obviously Bushie has the 10% working good.

John ORANGEBERG
 
when I was a young apprentice,I was told,"never be cheap with your oil or you micrometers..you make your living with them"..accurate machines make good parts...
get off the wallet and buy the good stuff..
peace
 
the "good stuff" needs to be changed every 3 hours in my bike or it turns to crap stuff

see pic above

I use what I do because its the best for what I do, better in fact than the "good stuff"

you are correct; get off the wallet and buy the best but bear in mind the best does not allways mean the most expensive, it simply means that its the best.
 
couldn't agree with you more bushie, the truck oil definitley handles a longer service interval better as far as clutch and box action goes IMHO.
 
Diversifying a little further.... Anyone have any experiance with ULX110 oils? I have heard and seen some big claims about it, and its priced 1/2 way between motorcycle specialised synthetics and truck lube(delo).
curiouse to know how far this product has been spread.
Thort 4 the day........ remove the emotion and stick with known engineering fact to achieve the best results for your application.
 
bushmechanic said:
the "good stuff" needs to be changed every 3 hours in my bike or it turns to crap stuff

see pic above

I use what I do because its the best for what I do, better in fact than the "good stuff"

you are correct; get off the wallet and buy the best but bear in mind the best does not allways mean the most expensive, it simply means that its the best.
mate we had to try something back then as i rode Suzuki RM 125 and 250 in 1984 and they had soft gearboxes i shat gears in my 125 regularly but back then our choice of oil was Castrol Grand prix which went to water when it got hot, mind you i grew up in a small town and we knew nothing about oils, in 1986 i switched to Kawasaki and to Bel Ray and no more gearbox problems. I ran Mooreys after the Suzuki days just encase but i was still on apprentice wages at $180 a week and i snuck the mooreys spills from the workshop floor and put them in my bike. My how things change and we have such a wide range to choose from now.
Years ago our defence forces ran in depth tests on oils to find out what oil would not let them down in a life or death situation, theres been a lot of action in the last few years with our special forces so what oil are they running.
Just a thought, the last test i seen years ago Bel Ray came out on top.
John ORANGEBERG
 
I am new to the ways of the 'berg..thanks for the help..i like the idea of heating the shop with all the old oil i have..i was wondering what to do with it..I think the shaft on the right was ground and the one on the left was turned..no tool marks on the ground shaft..
 

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