Newbee problems with 2010 fe570

wthemechanic · Mar 9, 2011

I just got a great deal on a fe 2010 fe570 but the dealer has only been selling husabergs for a couple of months and the service dept doesn't seen to know that much about them. I have a few concerns about the bike and hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

The bike has 1.4 hours on it and it is very slow to start when cold. I have tried bumping the starter first to prime the fuel pump and tried adjusting the idle, but it still take quite a few turns to start. When it does start the first time it stalls out but will stay running if i start it again. Is this normal?

I also tried to do the run in procedure where you let it idle for 5 min in order for the fi parameters to adjust but just about the 5th min the bike boiled over (out of rad cap overflow). It was 40 F at the time. I understand without a Rad fan this can happen but 5 min from cold start up. Is this normal and if so how can i perform the run in procedure?

I called the dealer to find out about re-flashing the ecu because I figured it might be running really lean (overheating and popping on decel) and they have never re-flashed one. Can I just send the ecu to a shop with experience or do I have to take the whole bike? Is there any resources I can give the dealer to get them up to speed with the re-flashing procedure?

DeeG · Mar 9, 2011

You can send your ECU to an experienced dealer and get it reflashed. Some will do it for free. There are several reputable dealers that are very helpful in this forum and on KTMtalk. As I understand it the "latest" flash may not be the best. You probably have one of the lean flashes, which will make the bike run hot.

I would also check your fuel pump filter. Chances are the dealer put a small amount of fuel in the tank and it then sat on the showroom floor for months. The ethanol in the gas mixes with water vapor and settles to the bottom of the tank. The water then gets sucked in through the pump, causing sporatic performance - especially right after start up. And then it leaves a white residue behind (corn flour???) that plugs up your fuel pump filter, fuel pump, and/or injectors. I had this problem. My filter was almostly totally caked over with the white gunk. After cleaning it off, rinsing the tank, and getting a full tank of fresh fuel I have not had one single hiccup.

While you have your tank off you might consider doing a few other mods:
* Add heat shielding to the bottom of the tank
* Install the fan kit
* Wrap your exhaust header
* Remove the one-way valve and ball from the fuel cap

You can get info an all of these topics by searching the forums.

wthemechanic · Mar 9, 2011

Thanks for the reply. I think I might take it to the dealer before doing any thing because i don't want to void my lame warranty yet. I read that if you reflash to the competition map it will void the warranty. Is there any truth in that?

Does any one know exactly what map needs to be flashed for sea level with average temp of 80 F with unrestricted exhaust?

tahoeacr · Mar 9, 2011

Have you pulled the idle knob out? It is also a choke. Heck, I had my bike 8 months before I new that :lol: . I checked it when I was on the dyno and the Air/Fuel ratio went from 14.0:1 down to 12.0:1 with it pulled out. If you don't know about it it might help the cold starting but your map does sound lean.

Garrison · Mar 9, 2011

I've only started my new 390 a few times (waiting forthe snow to melt), but it definitely seems to prefer no throttle when starting. The bugger wouldn't start when I first brought it home, but since then I've stayed off the gas and it's fired pretty easily, even in very cold temps. Keeping it on the battery tender helps too. I took my tank off from new and sloshes some clean fuel around before impinge it and replacing. Hopefully they didn't run it much during the dealer setup to suck too much if that bad gas into my filter.

wthemechanic · Mar 10, 2011

I have tried pulling the knob out and it doesn't seem to help. I will start faster if I give it a little throttle when starting. Once the bike is warm it starts quickly. I'm going to pull the fuel filter this weekend to check that. I knew paying $5000 for a new bike was too good to be true.

fakesy · Mar 10, 2011

just a thought, have u over oiled ur airfilter,mine dont start to easy if im generous with the oil so now i use spray on oil & that curred it

sethro · Mar 10, 2011

wthemechanic said:
I have tried pulling the knob out and it doesn't seem to help. I will start faster if I give it a little throttle when starting. Once the bike is warm it starts quickly. I'm going to pull the fuel filter this weekend to check that. I knew paying $5000 for a new bike was too good to be true.

My 2010 570 does the same exact thing when starting cold, once warm starts instantly. My first 2010 did not do this, this is my 2nd one, they are set up identical too.
Sethro

aaronc70 · Mar 10, 2011

wmechanic,
Did you scoop up one of the '10's at that dealership in Woodbridge, VA that's selling them cheap? If so I might be looking at the same issues, mine should be delivered this week.

Aaronc70

wthemechanic · Mar 10, 2011

Yep I got it there. They seem really nice at the dealership and it was a smooth transaction. I am going to wrap the header and check the fuel filter this weekend and hopefully get the ecm re-flashed next week.
If you live in the DC area can you suggest any place to ride?

MrSmooth · Mar 10, 2011

My 2010 is hard to start from cold too. It takes 3 or 4 tries to start. Once started and warmed up it starts everytime.

aaronc70 · Mar 14, 2011

Nope, I live in TN. Lots of places to ride down here. West Virginia may be a good option for you, not sure exactly where you're at. I had shipping all set up but the dealer didn't get the bike until today, now my shipper won't be up there for another 2+ weeks. UGHHHH.

Newbee problems with 2010 fe570

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