My Chain Snapped... What's Going On?

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Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
35
Location
South West UK
Hi Guys n'Galls

Warm, sunny conditions, 2004 FE501 with 17" S/M wheels and road tyres fitted, dropped down a cog or two for a bit of acceleration and 'bang' ... there's my chain hanging all limp-like off the swingarm! (It actually fractured across one of the pins that make-up the split link).

Being used to road bikes and closed link chains (no split link), I was amazed to notice that the Regina fitted to my bike (I've only owned it for 5 minutes), was of the split-link (dirt bike), type! Is this normal and do I need a closed link chain to handle the demands of 501 power through sticky road tyres onto tarmac?

Help... I'm all dazed and confused (again!). Do I need a new chain (it appears to be in VGC), or can I simply drop-in a new split link assy?

Cheers
 
That's pretty bad luck to have a breakage but pretty good luck that no real damage was done.

Split links are very common on trail bikes and, if fitted properly, there's no reason why they shouldn't be as strong and reliable as a rivet link.

If you still have the remains of the split link, check to see if it is actually a Regina split link that matches the rest of the chain. It is a stupid but common mistake for people to fit non-matching links. If the link has the wrong pin diameter or length, it is likely to lead to failure.

Personally, I'd now fit a new chain.

Greg
 
I have always ridden enduro and trail with a spare master and a set of links. Never had a break until Berg used Regina chain. I then broke three. On the third break I made some enquiry and was advised that I was probably trying to get too much life from the chain. Rubbish, Rubbish, Rubbish!!! It is Regina in my view. I changed to DID and have never had a break since. That was 10 years ago so lots of chain use since.
 
GregUK said:
Personally, I'd now fit a new chain.
Me too! If you could be absolutely sure that there was no damage to the rest of the chain you could just fit another split link, making sure it's the right type for the chain, but it's hard to know there's not now a weak point somewhere which isn't easily visible and might make it fail again. You were lucky this time - next time it might smash the engine case or wrap round the rear sprocket and spit you off the bike so I wouldn't take a risk.

Some people do say that a rivetted link is stronger than a clip one but I don't know whether that's actually significant if the clip link is fitted properly. I'd probably go with whatever the bike was fitted with as standard - if it came with a clip link when new then I'd be happy to ride with one. I've certainly had road bikes before which had clip-type links and never had one break in over 30 years - the only chain which did snap had a rivetted link and didn't break at the split link anyway, but that was a sub-standard cheap chain fitted by BMW on the F800GS and apparently lots of them snapped so they *eventually* did a safety recall because of it.
 
Thanks All...

I'll defo opt for a new chain of DID manufacture... Geez, I was lucky there was no damage to case, swingarm or wheel... and further that I didn't end up eating gravel - I was doing around 55mph at the time of the break!

Brill advice and guidance, as ever.

Keep it real Guys (and Galls)...

Chris
 
For DID chains, here's my order (best to least-best):

  1. DID 520ZVM-X[/*:m:qe5w7cq4]
  2. DID 520ERV3[/*:m:qe5w7cq4]
  3. DID 520VT2[/*:m:qe5w7cq4]
  4. DID 520VM[/*:m:qe5w7cq4]

Alternatively eBay item 270627490901

Greg
 
Thanks Greg.

I actually plumped for an RK chain... more to do with availability than price/spec - just hope it's as tough as the DID branded ones!
 
What years / models had the regina chain?

Are there markings on the chain which would identify regina?
 
how tight is your chain? supermoto bikes although used on the road need far more slack than a road bike due the the extra suspension travel. If you set it like a normal road bike once your weight is on it and you start accelerating and hitting bumps you will be putting undue strain on the chain
 
I think that Husaberg has had a pretty lengthy association with Regina; mine's a 2003/4 model which came with a Regina as standard and, from reading the latest Husaberg sales literature, they still seem to be OEM fit.

The chain links are usually marked with the brand of manufacturer and inspection of my old chain reveals Regina stamped on one out of every 6 links (same for the RK chain I replaced it with).

In relation to chain tension... this is a REALLY surprising issue for off-road or S/M applications. I've adjusted my new RK in accordance with the factory manual which states 8-10mm of slack, with the measurement taken from BELOW the swingarm and immediately behind the lower chain slider block!

Basically this gives a pretty slack looking set-up when viewed from the top side (alarmingly so when compared to road bike chains), but necessary to accomodate the range of suspension travel required for off-road or S/M riding.

Urm... I'm beginning to wonder if I contributed to the chain failure by not allowing adequate slack when I changed the off-road wheels to road ones recently! Lesson learned!

Cheers...
 
My (now sold) 2008 FE450 came with a CZ basic (non-O-ringed) chain on its road gearing and a DID X-ring chain for the off-road gearing.

Greg
 
I recently repaired a chain on the trail for a mate on a 450 Husky. A Regina. I carry some spare links and a bit of chain and a breaker with me all the time, just in case.

The bits also got me home from the Cape once when there was jsut 2 of us, and the other bike had a broken chain from a rock jamming it. 250 kms from anywhere on the east coast!

The Husky mentioned above had its chain too tight, and he was pissed because that is how the dealer set it up. As has been mentioned many times, chain tension needs to be set when all 3 axes are in a straight line, ie, c/s shaft, swingarm pivot, and rear axle. If not, the too tight chain affects suspension performance, wears the chain and sprockets, and the wheel bearings and gearbox bearings excessively. Loose is better than tight.

Steve
 
be happy you only broke the chain dude, i just had the regina chain break on my brandy new ktm rc8 with only 2300km on it. when the chain let go it broke the three **** on the engine case that support the clutch slave cylinder. i dont know if ktm is going to warranty it..i didn't even want to take delivery of my 2011 husaberg fs570 cuz if ktm wont stand behind my rc8 i dont doubt the will step up if i have a warranty issue with my new husaberg. ive been a good ktm customer, i have a 560 smr, an rc8, a 640 smr and just got my 570 husaberg...im really pissed cuz my bike needs new eng. cases. on a lighter note..i jut got off the phone with the tm factory in italy they stopped production on the tm 660smx in 09 but are going to build me one....whoot whoot..same weight as my 560/560s but over 80hp
 
I am confused on chains. What RK Chains use a rivet master link and what ones use a Clip on master link?
Does anyone use a Rivet Master Link?

RK 520XSO 750cc Street
RK 520EXW ATV & 750cc Off-Road
RK 520GXW 1000cc Street & 750 Off-Road

Plus I don't know which is better RK or DID for the FE570?

Davo
 
Cheers for that I'm in the process of chain and sprockets.

I'm gonna do the chain guide as well (T.M design works). I have cut the groove out of it 1 too many times and its worn out.
 
Yeah my stock chain is worn and needs replacing soonish (done 1,900Km's). The front sproket does not look real flash either.
I went the whole hog from KTM Parts:
TM Slide N Guide Kit (Blue) Husaberg 09-10 $148.45
KTM Front Counter Shaft Sprocket 13T $23.62
REAR SPROCKET BLUE Z-52 $71.09
Husaberg Billet Case Guard Set 08-11 $65.69

Couldn't for the life of me work out what chain to order so just rang Sutto's and brought their recommended model for the RK brand, which was 520XSO
 

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