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Just received my Rekluse

Re: RE: slipper, auto, rekluse?????

cypher said:
was looking the other day an it doesn't look like they do the pro model for bergs.

come on froggy get it going and give us your impressions
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Yes, I will. I just had a few things to take care of. 4-day week-end coming (employer gave me my Monday as a Christmas present, nice from him knowing I designed a payment solution that brought in 1 million bucks so far).
 
RE: Re: RE: slipper, auto, rekluse?????

Well, I've smoked one on my 650 in less than an hour riding in Mojave.

Had one fail at the Bass Lake ride in less than a day.

Trashed one in Mexico in less then 150 miles... left me stranded.

I did all the beta testing for Rekluse with the 650 back in 2004 before giving it the thumbs down. It's a fine product, but the bergs don't generate enough centripital accelleration to lock the standard unit up. The Pro should work well though...


I'm currently running a Revloc on my 750 and it's indestructable.

I recently installed a Rekluse Pro on my KTM SE950R which produces over 118hp and it's been awesome. I just don't think the original Rekluse product was meant for much abuse.
 
RE: Re: RE: slipper, auto, rekluse?????

You seem to like to open it wide. I like to ride skinny tracks and in the open I limit myself to 60 on dirt, and even. Since I went OTB on a G Out and broke my arm at the Phoenix Force Ride, I have decided it was better to slow down. Also as everyone knows my skill level is medium at best. I also have one less tooth in the front, which means a bit more rpm and that might also help with the centristuff.

I just need an anti-stall device.
 
Re: RE: Re: RE: slipper, auto, rekluse?????

PowerCell said:
Well, I've smoked one on my 650 in less than an hour riding in Mojave.

Had one fail at the Bass Lake ride in less than a day.

Trashed one in Mexico in less then 150 miles... left me stranded.

I did all the beta testing for Rekluse with the 650 back in 2004 before giving it the thumbs down. It's a fine product, but the bergs don't generate enough centripital accelleration to lock the standard unit up. The Pro should work well though...


I'm currently running a Revloc on my 750 and it's indestructable.

I recently installed a Rekluse Pro on my KTM SE950R which produces over 118hp and it's been awesome. I just don't think the original Rekluse product was meant for much abuse.
Click to expand...

I think I had the second rekluse produced for the 650 in 2004. The first time out (in baja), it slung all the balls outand permantly disengaged the clutch. I carted the bike around for 10 days in baja only to ride it about 15 minutes.
After replacing the pressure plate playing with adjustments over a weekend, I finally got the thing to work acceptably for trail riding. I rode it for 2 years with no problems. When I removed it from the bike the clutches had only worn about 30-40%.
That clutch has now done 1 1/2 years in my 496 with no problems. It definately works better in the 496, where it was kind of marginal in the 650.
I guess the key's are adjustment and amount of abuse....I am easy on the abuse.
 
Re: RE: Re: RE: slipper, auto, rekluse?????

LeFrog said:
I just need an anti-stall device.
Click to expand...


The Canadian models come already equipped with one of these gizmos but it appears to be a different setup.Basically,it's a lever shaped thing just ahead of the left handgrip.Also useful for changing gears so I'm told. :wink:
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: slipper, auto, rekluse?????

Funny, Ford. Well, I decided I wanted a Rekluse, so I got one, now I am installing it.

First, I realized where my clutching issue came from: the star selector nut came loose, somehow, and the little wheel thing could not roll into the groove between the 1st and 2nd gear. The selector was positioned over the little wheelie lever. Nice. I managed to UNDER torque something? Which means nothing was wrong with the clutch line not the slave.

Second, I found out I lost a tooth on the starter clutch inner hub gear. Tooth was found, no damage done, but this answer my question about "should I keep the starter motor or switch to kick only mode". I'm not buying a new gear, this will suffice. The Rekluse should also allow me to live without the e-Restart.

Third, I realized I managed to strip the Timesert that Berger put in there. I guess the bolt was a tad too long and when I torqued it, it pushed against the back of the hole and therefore pulled the insert. Great. More to fix. I have to learn not to over torque.

ANYWAY: I ground the inner hub flush with the guide today, then had to prepare for Christmas Eve.

The Rekluse instruction manual is not very clear. It could definitely use more photos and the technical lingo is not consistent with the Husaberg manual, which could be a nice touch.

So here is the question: looking at page 28 from the 2001, or 41 from the 2002 parts manual, which are the parts I need to reuse? I just want to be 100% sure about this one!

Thanks a bunch!!!
 
The Rekluse should also allow me to live without the e-Restart.
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i think you'll regret that one nic. its still easy enough to stall at slow speeds.

as to what parts you don't use (pardon my crs disease if i'm wrong) but i think you pull out one clutch disk and the spacer at the end of the clutch rod which i don't think you have on your model.
one thing i had to improvise on mine was to use more washers on top of the posts you ground off because my assembled clearance was too small.
 
What year model did you install yours on?

Also what gap did you get? I still need to get a set of feeler gauges. Which ones do you recommend? Doc says gap has to be between .030" and .042", but do they even make feeler gauges that thick?!?

It's about 1mm and that seems a bit thick.
 
i installed the same kit on my 98 400. i ended up with a gap of about .022, so i added another washer (they're about .010 thick) to get the right gap. worked good first time out.
a std set of feeler gages goes from around .0015 to about .035 or so. if you have one set, take it apart and stack them together to get the right #. its a little awkward getting them in place at the same time. do it a few times to see if you can get the feel of it.
.030 to .042 is a relatively big gap to shoot for and it seems to me the lower the gap within tolerance, the more you have to work with when it breaks in and the balls start leaving tracks on the pressure plate.
 
Gotcha.

I am at the gap adjustment stage right now and I am waaaay off. I followed their recommended settings, with the taller 2" wave spring out and the 1.5" wave spring in, no washer.

I torqued the 3 black Torx screw down as prescribed, but am unable to get any closer and I have already warped one Torx head (cheap Chinese crap, but still).

The gap is about 2 mm, about twice as much as it should and I guess the wave springs are not the pressure plate to go any lower either.

I can substitute the drive plates with the Rekluse ones, there are 4 and they will add a total of .8mm but that seems to be far...

I will try without the wave springs to see the difference but I guess the friction plates could also need to be replaced.
 
The gap is about 2 mm, about twice as much as it should
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somethings funky, nic. do you have a way to measure the thickness of your existing plates (metal and fibre)? but if your clutch worked ok before the teardown, you shouldn't be that far off. (i wonder if rekluse makes a set of install booklets in french? :lol: )
did you file the standoff posts so that they were exactly level with the template? (the higher the post, the more gap you will have)
i guess you could start shuffling around the plates they give you, but you're pretty far off. i'd doublecheck it all from the beginning if it was me.
 
I will try tonight without the wave springs and see what I get. I will even remove the balls (and be sure I don't mess them up) and see what I get this way.

I wonder if someone could give me his spring set up for a 2001-2003 501. That would put me in the right direction.

The plates I think are fine too. But you can't be too sure.
 
LeFrog said:
I will try tonight without the wave springs and see what I get. I will even remove the balls (and be sure I don't mess them up) and see what I get this way.

I wonder if someone could give me his spring set up for a 2001-2003 501. That would put me in the right direction.

The plates I think are fine too. But you can't be too sure.
Click to expand...

Hmmm? Just looked at the installation instructions for your Berg. This install is about the simplest I've seen as you don't even have to mix & match plates? The choice of spring has NO effect on the gap. The gap is purely a mechanical deal.

1. Did you use the thin shims under the lower assembly?
2. Did you remove the top steel plate?
3. It calls for BOTH springs to be installed?
4. Did you use ALL the Rekluse supplied clutch actuation parts?

I don't understand why they include (4) .047" steel plates but don't tell you to replace any of the stock plates with them?

As for the guys having slippage problems I think the addition of tungsten balls has helped reduce the problem? Were they using them back in 04?
 
Yes, I did all of that, don't worry. I went by the number and I even took photos after each step (you know, for my how-to section).

It does call for both the 2.0 and the 1.5 wave springs to be installed, you can check it out on their site. They also want you to use two washers on top of the throw out. I think this is adding more gap than needed and that may be the issue I have.

And yes I did remove the top steel plate, you would not be able to do it otherwise.

I am not completely sure what is causing the issue here but it is not necessary the language nor my lack of understanding the doc but maybe something wrong in the recommended setup. I have a doubt about the Belleville spring washer, placed curve side down.

This is why I want to remove the balls (so as not to lose them) and the wave springs and see what natural gap I would get with and without the extra washer on top.
 
AGAIN...the wave springs and clutch release mechanisim have NO effect on the gap. The gap is a MECHANICAL measurement. The spring & clutch release mechanism only effect initial RPM of application of clutch. Adding spring or hyd effect only raises the RPM required to get moving. Doesn't REALLY matter which way the bellville washer is oriented.

The only things that effect the gap are:

1. Post height that is filed off and amount/thickness of shims you installed.
2. Clutch plate stack thickness, both steel & fricton.


This is assuming you didn't get a clutch that has some mis-matched parts. I bought a used Rekluse for an 03 KTM 450 EXC, found the seller had also bought it used and had not installed it. When doing the install found it didn't have the correct steel plates included. Also the 03 KTM has an odd-ball fricton plate thickness. I finally figured out a way to get the gap in range by using some of the stock .055" steel plates instead of the stock .039".

Are all your plates the same thickness? As in frictons .078" and steels .039" or something along those lines? Do you have a micrometer or caliper to measure with?
 
you might double check that the lower assembly and the pressure plate are lined up correctly.
The set up I ended up with was: 2" plus 1.5" spring, .040" gap, all tungsten balls.
 
Alright I got it to fit in right this time. The holes in the pressure plate for the mounts to slide it were not machined well, there was a little bit of metal blocking two of them. I filed it off and it slid right in.

I will try as is, no special steel plate, just as in described in the doc, 2 shims on top of the hub mounts, 2 wave coils with the Belleville washer (never heard of those before), and I will measure the gap as soon as I have found 2 .030 gauges.
 

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