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dvr needle as benchmark
dtr is absolutely identical if you leave it one position lower than the dvr
dvt is absolutely identical to dvr except the straight portion is wider and will make the bike run leaner at idle. it will run one of two ways, it will cough as you touch the throttle from closed or it will be spot-on and be crisper and sharper.
compared to the dtr you will now know that it is wider and if it were always one clip higher it would be identical.
i suggest the DTR. DTR on clip 3 or up or down one. try them in both? let us know? turn your APJ off first by screwing the adjuster until there is no travel at all.
regards
Taffy
dtr is absolutely identical if you leave it one position lower than the dvr
dvt is absolutely identical to dvr except the straight portion is wider and will make the bike run leaner at idle. it will run one of two ways, it will cough as you touch the throttle from closed or it will be spot-on and be crisper and sharper.
compared to the dtr you will now know that it is wider and if it were always one clip higher it would be identical.
i suggest the DTR. DTR on clip 3 or up or down one. try them in both? let us know? turn your APJ off first by screwing the adjuster until there is no travel at all.
regards
Taffy
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2001
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- Location
- Ely, England
RE: more needls
DRQ is not an ideal needle. you can make it run ok but it is very narrow on the straight so it will run rich at idle and just onto the throttle. ignore the middle letter as this is just clip position. the two to look for are the first letter which will be D or E for a angle of taper and the other is the third letter which is the needle straight thickness.
your third letter wants to be a R or best an S or a T.
with the E series it's a different tale. the straight of the needle is so long and filling the emulsion tube so we have to make the straight thinner so the same fuel as the D gets can pass down the side of the E. therefore for an E series needle you want a Q or best an R or an S.
regards
Taffy
DRQ is not an ideal needle. you can make it run ok but it is very narrow on the straight so it will run rich at idle and just onto the throttle. ignore the middle letter as this is just clip position. the two to look for are the first letter which will be D or E for a angle of taper and the other is the third letter which is the needle straight thickness.
your third letter wants to be a R or best an S or a T.
with the E series it's a different tale. the straight of the needle is so long and filling the emulsion tube so we have to make the straight thinner so the same fuel as the D gets can pass down the side of the E. therefore for an E series needle you want a Q or best an R or an S.
regards
Taffy
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- Gold Coast, Qld
RE: more needls
Taffy said:
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2001
- Messages
- 17,028
- Location
- Ely, England
RE: more needls
hello bergtweaker
welcome to UHE. we have everything somewhere! the tappets are covered in dozens of old threads and i may have done it in the doc under 'engine rebuild'. go into 'search' at the top of this page and use tappets as a search word. should get what you want.
i think you also need to try and put your location in there and your bike model and year so we always know what you ride and whether we can give you pure open handed bloody favouratism or just hate you!
as for your jetting, well i wish DaleO was answering this!
DALE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
enough!
right, as far as i and many EUROPEAN members are concerned: your jetting is an absolute and total and utter phucking disaster! if your from the states we can help you a bit but the trouble is that all suggestions i and others from over the pond is caste-off due to the totally different fuels we run to each other.
if you're from europe then it's easy: lineaweaver needle on clip one, 150MJ, 38PJ, 80 starter jet, PAJ at 45-50. reduce the squirt to about .5 seconds and an instant squirt as you touch the throttle. to find out how to do that you need to go into the doc again and to carburation.
if you don't want to buy a lineaweaver needle then a DMS is the preffered choice followed by an EKQ. the EKQ would be mainly for top end only, the D series for everything else.
regards
Taffy
hello bergtweaker
welcome to UHE. we have everything somewhere! the tappets are covered in dozens of old threads and i may have done it in the doc under 'engine rebuild'. go into 'search' at the top of this page and use tappets as a search word. should get what you want.
i think you also need to try and put your location in there and your bike model and year so we always know what you ride and whether we can give you pure open handed bloody favouratism or just hate you!
as for your jetting, well i wish DaleO was answering this!
DALE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
enough!
right, as far as i and many EUROPEAN members are concerned: your jetting is an absolute and total and utter phucking disaster! if your from the states we can help you a bit but the trouble is that all suggestions i and others from over the pond is caste-off due to the totally different fuels we run to each other.
if you're from europe then it's easy: lineaweaver needle on clip one, 150MJ, 38PJ, 80 starter jet, PAJ at 45-50. reduce the squirt to about .5 seconds and an instant squirt as you touch the throttle. to find out how to do that you need to go into the doc again and to carburation.
if you don't want to buy a lineaweaver needle then a DMS is the preffered choice followed by an EKQ. the EKQ would be mainly for top end only, the D series for everything else.
regards
Taffy
1 more question
hi taffy you now the needle dms and the pj . paj . starter jet code from www.allensperformance.co.uk/data-keihin ... edles.html
i want to order and i dont understand the code from there
thank
hi taffy you now the needle dms and the pj . paj . starter jet code from www.allensperformance.co.uk/data-keihin ... edles.html
i want to order and i dont understand the code from there
thank
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2001
- Messages
- 17,028
- Location
- Ely, England
RE: 1 more question
ok you want parts for a 39mm keihin FCR. code 427-OC
needle is a OCDMS/017/297
needle is a OCEMR/017-266 this is slightly leaner at idle and the 'M' is a clip change which you can do. if you really want an OBEKQ you need to go to yamaha!
MJ is easy
starter jet must come from yamaha or honda/suz/kawa etc
PJ - you must describe which type of PJ you have? there are short ones and there are longer ones for the early carb that have drilled holes in the side.
we have yamaha part numbers on the doc!!!!! you have a yamaha dealer near you!
regards
Taffy
ok you want parts for a 39mm keihin FCR. code 427-OC
needle is a OCDMS/017/297
needle is a OCEMR/017-266 this is slightly leaner at idle and the 'M' is a clip change which you can do. if you really want an OBEKQ you need to go to yamaha!
MJ is easy
starter jet must come from yamaha or honda/suz/kawa etc
PJ - you must describe which type of PJ you have? there are short ones and there are longer ones for the early carb that have drilled holes in the side.
we have yamaha part numbers on the doc!!!!! you have a yamaha dealer near you!
regards
Taffy
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