jetting an 2004 FE 550 e

Wondering if anyone has come up with satisfactory jetting in these bikes as they come so lean from the factory.It is really hard to tell how close we have gotten to ideal jetting riding them through downtown Vacaville.thanks in advance for sharing some knowledge.dan.

hello dan

i've got you down as having
200MAJ
170MJ
ELQ needle on C4
38PJ
100PAJ
85SJ

i recommend that you first of all get the ratio of PAJ to PJ correct. it was i that came up with the formula still used by JD on the TT web site and it is as follows
"15 of air to each PJ"
so 35PJ = 45PAJ
38 = 60
40 = 75
42 = 90
45 = 100-105
48 = 115-125

as you have a 100PAJ you can use a 45 PJ

i run EKQ on my tuned 400 and it's literally only half a clip different to yours. i tried the 42/90 combo and the bike was better at 1/8-1/4 throttle than the 38/60 i was running.

next thing to try is a 'pilot air screw' which as a dealer you should definately invest in because once you hve the jetting right you may wish to withdraw the PAS (which you unscrew the exact amount of turns to equal a certain jet size) and fit a PAJ of the correct size and sell on the bike etc. keep the screw and re-use as they're twice/triple the cost of a jet.

this will however make the bike about 20% richer starting it and at tickover. this may cause re-start issues when warm. so to get over this you can order one of the two needles below;

OBEKR - this is a yamaha YZ original part and i believe it's an optional extra from the 2000 or 2001 450 model.

OCEMR this is a brass needle that sudco will have on the shelf.

if you didn't know dan, the middle suffix denotes simply the height at which the needle is 2.515mm wide and every second letter equals a clip position. that means that EKR and EMR are the same needle just one clip apart. and the EKQ and ELQ are just half a clip apart.

if you're going at it full tilt i would order the following from sudco

PAS
42PJ
45PJ
OCEMR needle
75 PAJ

you'll find this will all help. you'll also find that if you do 'snap-wheelie' tests and the PS reacts best at 2 turns out-the pilot system is slightly weak and if only 1 turn out that it is slightly rich. this is a great indicator of 'what you my need to do next'. 1.5 turns is the correct setting when all is well.

the accelerator pump should be tuned right down to .75mm of lift and less than 1 second of duration. the mark 2 carb which the huseys have fitted as OEM have a stop screw you can adjust but the MK1 carb that has the bell-crank on the side must have a model wheel collar fitted to reduce it's pump. it's known as the Taff mod.

that's about it really. i run an #80 choke jet to your #85 after trying 4 sizes. i'm at sea level BTW. also i run a 162MJ and not the factories 170.

regards

Taffy

Taffy,thanx for that detailed reply ,i am almost without words over it.what i am still hoping to hear tho, is from some of the many riders in the southwest US that have tried to figure it out themselves.we have very dry air and temperatures get high at times.i know their are a bunch of riders out west here with that motor cycle.come on offer up the hot set-up.thanx,dan.

I was running the 48 Pilot jet with three turns out on the air screw for the summer, it was just a shade lean. For the winter I have gone to a 50 PJ with a half of turn on the air screw and changed to a EMN needle on the third clip. Main jet stock.

thank you sacberg.can anyone else from perhaps arizona,sothern california,or perhaps utah,nevada,or oregon care to offer up what they are running?dan.

38 PJ
75 PAJ
158 MJ
200 MAJ
85 Start Jet
Fuel Screw 2.25 turns out
EKP 4.5
DCPR7EIX spark plug

Above settings baselined at 25.5 deg F, 29.77 "Hg, 38% RH. Just compare with your atmospheric conditions and adjust main to suit.


Have tried many other E series needles, PJ, PAJ, MJ & MAJ - this works best. Have verified on dyno and through winter & summer in Australia, only having to change MJ & fuel screw for changing atmospheric conditions.

fontana302,very interesting jetting.you do have an fe 550 e,correct?kind of baffles me that you can go so small on the pilot jet and main jet.perhaps our needle that comes in the bike is a big part of the low speed snap,crackle and pop.mr.fontana,just curious if you have any idea how many miles/kms you are getting from a tank of fuel?thanx,dan.

Hi Dan,
I currently inventory in excess of 50 different metering rods (many of which LR customs) for the FCR carburetor. As time allows I am putting together a jet kit for the FCR equipped Husaberg. If you have a particular bike you would like for me to dynamometer / EGA profile please give me a call. Since we are so close in proximity I could supply you with said kits for installation prior to first sale.

Hope all is well.

Sincerely,
Dale

Dale,i can not offer up a brand new 550 for dyno runs and then sell the bike as used at a significant price reduction.i have been contacted through the uhe private mail system by some members with information that may prove to be very helpful in this jetting quest.one of the bikes has been tested on the dyno at 55 rwhp in other wise stock form except for minor muffler mods.i will get in touch with you on the phone regarding this matter.Dan.

Motoxotica said:

Dale,i can not offer up a brand new 550 for dyno runs and then sell the bike as used at a significant price reduction.i have been contacted through the uhe private mail system by some members with information that may prove to be very helpful in this jetting quest.one of the bikes has been tested on the dyno at 55 rwhp in other wise stock form except for minor muffler mods.i will get in touch with you on the phone regarding this matter.Dan.

Click to expand...

Hi Dan,
I understand your initial concern, however, I pre run and tune many new motorcycles prior to initial sale. This includes $25,000.00 plus FI Harley Davidsons.

Regarding 55 RWHP:
As I made mention in this earlier thread:
http://www.husaberg.org/modules.php?nam ... opic&t=971
"peak power is not a proper indication of good overall carburetor tune."

Over the years it has been my personal experience that a pre run and properly tuned motorcycle is worth more to the consumer than it's straight off the off the showroom floor weezing counterpart.

Truth be told a properly tuned new motorcycle should cost extra.

In closing: "Performing the initial run in and properly tuning the engine in a controlled environment will make for a very happy engine requiring little if any end user fiddling."


Please feel free to give me a call anytime.
Phone: 510 223-9052


Kind Regards,
Dale

Dale,you know most of the Husaberg owners quite enjoy fiddling! :violin:

Motoxotica said:

Dale,you know most of the Husaberg owners quite enjoy fiddling! :violin:

Click to expand...

LOL :lol: Indeed!

pineman here I too have been trying to jet my 04 fe450 and have been following the threads and need help with what the first two letters on the needle mean. It took awhile but I understand the last three thanks to lineweaver and taffy. My jetting thus far for Idaho 48 PJ OBDVT clip#5, still showing lean, MJ 180 1.5 out on PAJ all else stock. The pilot curcuit is still to rich because the bike will start with no choke even at 40 degrees. Thanks to any help out there.

pineman

you're DVT is a poor choice of needle except to keep the power very mild indeed. an E series is by far the better needle. i'm on EKQ and i would recommend bypassing this and going straight to EKR for a slightly leaner idle/tickover.

MJ shouldn't be anywhere near 180.

the correct air to go with a 48PJ is roughly #100PAJ and that corresponds to 1-turn of the PAS and no where near 1.5 turns. you're using a huge PJ to get over a very lean needle at 'T' in the DVT. get an EKR and PJ down to 42 and PAS down to 3/4 turn and MJ to 170. that'll do you.

you're all over the show at present!

regards

Taffy

[quote="LINEAWEAVER
Truth be told a properly tuned new motorcycle should cost extra.

In closing: "Performing the initial run in and properly tuning the engine in a controlled environment will make for a very happy engine requiring little if any end user fiddling."


Please feel free to give me a call anytime.
Phone: 510 223-9052


Kind Regards,
Dale[/quote]

I'm in agreement with Dale here. If I can get my ducks lined up to get a fe550 soon, maybe I should get it thru Dan and loan it to Dale for R&D. My father and I were both top 10 overall enduro riders and have been avid snowmobilers, and constant tinkerers with toys over the last 30+ years. We've built many hotrods with very good success. We are also fairly well known in this area. When our dealer calls up to say that my new sled is in, but he would like to keep if for a week and break it in and do some jetting and clutching we accept the offer. When he calls up to ask if he can borrow it for a couple of days, I take it down to the shop. Moral of the story is: if someone is willing to supply $200-300 worth the brass and needles (and in the case of snowmobiles $500+ worth of clutch weights, ramps, helix's, springs, etc) and dial my stuff in, count me in.

Taffy
you seem to be the man on this jetting stuff and i will give your recommendations a try but i like to understand what i am doing and my original question of the first two letters have gone unanswered.
is this EKR as you recomend a OBEKR or a OCEKR and more importantly what is the sugnificance of those first two letters.

thanks for the help

pineman

pineman

OC stands for brass needles made by and sold by keihin through their dealer network.

OB stands for an anodised aluminium needle that is 'chromed' in appearance.

the simple way to remember is OB is NOT brass!!!

i don't want to repeat to every new member my knowledge of how to jet them but i will say that the taper of the E series brings the needle into a nmarrower and sharper point allowing more fuel to pass than the D series.

essentially the PJ works at 1/4 throttle and has an effect right down to tickover.

it is not unusual to find owners with very lean needles at tickover and making up for it with very rich PJ's. fine except the PJ is there for 1/4 throttle and the needle straight is for starting and tickover.

so jet it that way!

OC or OB denote what i've said above.
D, E or even F and G is the next code and denotes angle of taper.
the middle letter can vary hugely but denotes the point on the needle where it is 2.515mm wide. if it was a DA* that means that the needle would be so sharp at the point as to cut your finger whereas a DX* would be very fat at the tip.

same angle for each but different starting points.

"why isn't the measurement taken from the point at which the taper starts?" i hear you shout loudly!

well we change the width of the needle for the third suffix and therefore a wide needle and a thin needle would have different taper starts.

if all needle straights were the same width we wouldn't have a problem.

the third letter means the higher in the alphabet the wider the needle.

your DVT is
D a slow taper therefore fat at the tip and doesn't pass fuel
no problem with V as such coz we can just put the needle on any clip we want.
T = very wide nedle straight at idle/tickover.

regards

Taffy

Taffy

GOT IT

Just needed to know what those first two letters were about, already understood the rest looking forward to the ride to test this out just waiting for the needle to get here.

thanks Taffy for being so clear with the schooling.

Taffy,
If the pilot and air jet are properly set up and the idle speed is properly set, does the needle system actually pull any fuel by the straight shank of the needle (throttle closed of course) at cranking speed?
Dan

DS

i'm not 100% sure on that one because some carbs have a small bleed that only works when the throttle is closed. i can't remember the last time i saw a cutaway of the FCR carb either come to think of it.

what i can say is that once running it is 80% needle straight that feeds the engine and 20% pilot jet. these are entirely my figures so i stand to be shot down but it is also based on experience and seat of the trousers feel.

regards

Taffy