Husaberg running problems

Taffy said:

the book figures are very difficult to follow. FC/FX/FE etc etc. american/european/world...

you keep asking mark and we keep telling ya! look at the freakin owners doc. it's there for numpties who keep asking schmuk questions!

FFS :cry:

Taffy

Click to expand...

Ya know, I get enough ridicule from people who don't ride bergs. I really don't need it from people that do. The owner's doc had a lot of useful info, but the DellOrto section didn't offer much. How can you think that the service manual's listing for stock carb calibrations is difficult to follow? Are you cross-eyed? You make it sound as if I am asking the same question over and over---I don't think so. Different variations in the same subject--yes. I don't really have a lot to work with, I am trying to get enough info before I do decide which way to go with it.

well i had to have about three looks at it to guess not just which model i had but indeed, which model i wanted it to be!

this is from the doc.

it's my jetting plus lineweavers finest and then another set-up by factory mechanic!

200MJ, DR266, K35 needle on C1, 40PJ, 3.25mm slide cutaway, 45 choke jet, PS = 1-turn = Sea level (Taffy)
170MJ, DR272, K51 needle on C2, 35PJ, 4.5mm slide cutaway, main air bleed drilled to #53 (1.5mm), pilot air bleed drilled to #60 (1mm). PS to suit (4,000ft) JoeUSA has a 501 but it's similar and worth a try. See forum info here. 195MJ, K51, 33PJ, DR274, 4.5mm slide cutaway, from factory mechanic (Heimar)

good luck but we can't really do anymore than support you at whatever settings you eventually try!

regards

Taffy

Well, I will try it and see what happens. This bike has been full of problems since i got it. I thasn't been as much fun as it should have been, the changes I have made to the jetting before kinda helped. Though never made it correct. Those carbs should be here today or tomorrow, hopefully they will have some different jets in them which should give me more of a selection to choose from. Looking at my last post, I am not trying to come down one anyone, just has been a bad week for me.

thanks everyone for your help with my lemon,

Hey First,

I had similar problems with my 97 FE400E a couple of years ago.

It was hard to start and backfired when starting, had a hard time reving up to full RPM.

I tried all of the carb troubleshooting, plug, valves, etc with no luck. Using the 99 shop manual I took the readings from the stator. The manual says that the readings should be...

Yel/Yel+ Blu- less than 1.0 Ohms
Red+ Blk- 3kOhms
Grn+ Blk- 168 Ohms

My Grn Blk readings were not close. I found out, I think thru Dan at MotoExotica, that the 97 specs are different. (I believe the 98 are the same as the 97.....they changed in 99). The 97 readings should be...

Yel/Yel+ Blu- less than 1.0 Ohms (no change)
Red+ Blk- 1.7 kOhms
Grn+ Blk- 27 Ohms

After taking the readings again and comparing them to the new numbers, I ended up buying a new stator. It cured the problem. It was a relief to have my bike running great again.

I have read on this forum that the older stators, which the 97 and I think 98 have, have a limited lifespan due to heat. Give the stator a check to see what you come up with.

Good luck,
Stuart

Well, that sounds a lot like my problem. I was kinda under the inpression that stators were either good or bad. If this is the case with mine, then the stator has been running marginal since I have had the bike. I will defintiely bring home my ohm meter and see what I get. I had heard that there is a place that rebuilds stators for the Husaberg, do they rebuild the particular one in my 98 FE501e? Too bad they don't make an MSD ignition for this thing. I run them on all my cars---a great product.

thanks

After years of trying to jet the 38mm flatslide Dellorto carb in my '96 FE600e I got it to run half way decently, then it started running worse and worse even after emaculate carb cleanout. In desperation, I replaced the carb with a properly jetted flatside 40mm Mikuni and the engine ran superbly, without a hitch, for the rest of its days.

P.S. When I sold the bike after 15,000 miles, it was still running on the original stator.

Husaberg running problem

Doctor corey here. I've read all of the replies to this problem description, and I'd like to offer some advice. First, I agree with some of the comments concerning the ignition system. There was a quote by a long forgotten tech writer in Cycle magazine. It read
"90% of all carb problems are caused by the ignition". I think our friend is chasing a ghost. Bad ignitions are masked by over-rich jetting. Assuming he doesn't have a junk carb( or a two stroke carb, as was the case on my fe600), even with his rich jetting a 501 will still rip pretty good. What this man really needs is someone with some knowledge to ride or look at his bike and save him a world of frustration. Oh yes, I;m assuming that he doesn't have a tight or burned Intake valve. Good luck, and if necessary you con send me your carb and I'll stick it on my 501 and see what happens!

Last night, I went through all the connections----all of them had corrosion. I cleaned them all and reassembled with dielectric grease. I could not pull off the flywheel to look at the stator since I don't have the flywheel puller----it is on order. While kicking it over, the spark is bright blue---a strong spark. The corroded connections probably had a lot to do with the ignition acting maginally. Another giant problem I had was oil in the carb intake boot----a lot of it. I bought some hose and a remote filter. looped the hose up over the right side of the frame in front of the gas tank and positioned the filter in front of the side air filter. No more oil in the carb. I also rerouted my cooling tubes for the stator. Where I took the oil breather off the frame, I used tube to directly to the stator cover. Hopefully there will be some pull of air through there. I bought a plastic automotive 5/16" fuel filter to act as a filter for air being pulled through the stator cover. It is looped up to the box portion of the frame then an extention of tube hangs down along with the carb vent tubes. I took the the bike for a short ride in the rain---PHENOMINALLY BETTER! I also set the sag----goodness gracious---what a more rideable bike. I went up a steep hill behind my house over wet rocks and wet slippery leaves----I went up easier and better now then when it was dry. The sag was probably ony about 35mm before. Now I set it to 110mm. I also lowered the triple clamps. The forks probably came up about 7/16". I can touch the ground on both sides now. If I didn't have to pick up my girlfriend from the airport, I would still be out there riding. Now the bike seems to run good enough to be able to actually tune it. Hopefully, this running good wasn't just a fluke of cold weather---about 46 degrees. Maybe now, it will run more consistantly. If it keeps running like this, I will definitely be more confident in taking this bike over tougher terrain.

Thanks everyone for your help and hanging in there with me. Yes, it probably was a problem derived from over looking maintenance on certian parts---like the connections. But, with all the advice given, I know a lot more about it then I did before---which is greatly appreciated.

thanks,