Husaberg FE 501 1991 light problem

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jan4an

Joined
Aug 7, 2013
Messages
9
Hello.

I have a Husaberg FE 501 from 1991. My front and back light won`t burn for a long time. In the front I have a 12v H4 55/60 watt lamp and back a 12v 21/5 watt lamp.

When I measure with a volt meter parralel on the lamp I measure 8, 9 volts AC on idle speed en full trottle 12 volt max. If I pull out the lamp and measure again (no current) the voltage wil increase to 20 volts and more!

The Husaberg has a voltage regulator parto no 180 019-01 (small alu block with one yellow wire)

My questions are,

Is the voltage regulator defect or is it possible that the lights break by the vibrations when I drive?

Is there a wiring digram for a Husaberg FE 501 from 1991?

The voltage regulator, is this a kind of zener diode?

Regards, Jan from the Netherlands
 
you say they dont burn for a long time? so they turn on and work but then flicker? or cut out? then start working again?

not sure i understand what the problem is............can you rephrase the question please?

i had a poor connection at the ignition switch once that caused inermittant headlight operation, they would come on and work for a while, other times would flicker, other times would just not work.....almost always would work when the engine wasnt running and as soon as it was running it would stop working again due to the vibrations.......this made it a difficult problem to diagnose because everytime in the shop it would work fine......

what headlight are you running a h4 bulb in?

lets see pic of your old bike!!!!!
 
Hey Bergini.

The lights are cut out (defect) Actually when i`m riding fast and RPM is high. My first thinking was the voltage regulator.

The bulp type is a Philips H4. A default 12v 55w car bulp. The backlight is a Philips P21/5w bulp.

I think I have found the problem. 2 yellow and 1 blue wires come out of the dynamo. 1 yellow goes to the voltage regulator en the second yellow wire goes to the light switch and after that to the two bulps. I think the voltage wil only be regulated on the first yellow wire. The second one is not regulated en the voltage wil increase at high RPM.

I found a simple wiring diagram from a later model and see that the two yellow wires are connected together before the voltage regulator.

Also I see it is very simple to build the elektrical system from AC to DC with a rectifier. Is DC better than AC?

I`m at my work now en when I am home I can upload a picture from my oldy ;)

Regards, Jan
 
he two yellow wires are connected together before the voltage regulator.
Click to expand...
that's the solution. each yellow is an ac output from the alternator. you can feed more wattage by tying them together, but they must be tied to the regulator, which does work like a zener, bleeding off to ground any voltage above about 17vac.
 
Hi ned37.

Thanks for you confirm ;)

You say that the regulator bleeding off any voltage above the 17v AC. Is this 17v peek or 17v effective? When it is effective the bulps getting more than 12v and may cut out.....

Is it wise to build the elektrical system from AC to DC? Or just letting it AC........
 
@ Bergini,

[attachment=0:1cmcydb2]foto.JPG[/attachment:1cmcydb2]

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This is my oldy ;)
 

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nice, not bad looking at all, I really though you were husaberg jim 600 reincarnated :lol: your pic proves your not i guess your off the hook..... :lol:

are you sure its a 1991? just looks a little newer, although i havent seen a lot of 1991's to really know for sure......

i guess to know for sure you can read the vin number thats stamped into the steering head and then cross refernece that with the info in the owner doc (top left corner of main page, click on owner doc) i think its the 10th digit in the vin number or something and there is a breakdown there......
 
You say that the regulator bleeding off any voltage above the 17v AC. Is this 17v peek or 17v effective? When it is effective the bulps getting more than 12v and may cut out.....

Is it wise to build the elektrical system from AC to DC? Or just letting it AC
Click to expand...

as you increase rpm, the stator output also increases (can go as high as 70vac). the regulator will limit this voltage (i remember about 17v, but i'm old). i always ran them ac, had no need to do dc, especially on an FE that had no battery. they fluctuate a bit, but work fine that way. you need to make sure the grounds at both the head and tail are clean and good.
 
I have the Husaberg from the first owner and on de official documents its from 1991. On de document the model is a Husaber Enduro 600 and the cylinde capacity is 502 cc :S Don`t know if this oke?

I will have a look at the VIN nr to check the year of born ;)

The elektrical problem is solved. I removed all the cable`s from the Husaberg and made a complete new wire system. I keep it on AC and it works fine now :)

[attachment=1:254u8ta9]foto 1.JPG[/attachment:254u8ta9]
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[attachment=0:254u8ta9]foto 2.JPG[/attachment:254u8ta9]
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Here is my licence document with type nr, frame nr and also cylinder info. @ (B) the date of first owner, 1991

[attachment=0:346065ik]foto.JPG[/attachment:346065ik]

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Hi pal sorry to just jump in on your post but I'm stuck with my wiring I have a regulater with a yelo wire and a dark brown wire wich coler cables do I conect them to thers 6 wires coming from the stater red blak green that go to the coil and 2 yello that hav plastic conecters that have been siliconed up I can not seem to find a diagram of wiring from a 93 fe 501 eny help will b grate
 
I think i get your question better now, one of the yellows goes to the rectifier/regulator i dont remember where the other end goes to, i have a blue wire coming from my rectifier that has a round eyelet type of connector on it, this blue wire of mine gets grounded to the case of the rectifier itself, and gets held onto it with a bolt that goes through the center of it and teh bolt also holds the wire and the rectifier itself to the inside of the plastic inner mud flap/battery protector, the metal case ofthe rectifier cannot touch the frame or it charge the battery.

good luck :cheers:
 
Ok pal thanks my bike is kik start only can it just run off the coil the engine came with the r are 6 wires coming from stater red,blak,green. Go to coil 2 yellow and 1 blue have plastic conecters on that have been siliconed up ???
 
Oh i see what your saying now, your bike doesnt have a light or a battery, yea the yellows/blue dont matter unless you have a headlight or battery....
 
I would leave them alone, it seems silly to ground that circuit for no reason...
 
My Husa is also only a kickstarter. No rectifier so its a AC system. The 2 yellow wires come out of the stator is the power supply. A single yellow wire is good for 70 watt. Connect the 2 yellow wires together and you have 140 watt. From the 2 yellow wires that are connected together you make a connection to the voltage regulator. Small ALU block with one wire. This voltage regulator must be grounded to the frame. From the 2 yellow wires you can now supply your lights. The blue wire come out from the stator is the ground. Connect this to the frame. All the other wires, red green orange and black are ignition wires.

If you want more info I can make a drawning or make foto's from my Husa.

Regards, Jan
 
jan4an said:
My Husa is also only a kickstarter. No rectifier so its a AC system. The 2 yellow wires come out of the stator is the power supply. A single yellow wire is good for 70 watt. Connect the 2 yellow wires together and you have 140 watt. From the 2 yellow wires that are connected together you make a connection to the voltage regulator. Small ALU block with one wire. This voltage regulator must be grounded to the frame. From the 2 yellow wires you can now supply your lights. The blue wire come out from the stator is the ground. Connect this to the frame. All the other wires, red green orange and black are ignition wires.

If you want more info I can make a drawning or make foto's from my Husa.

Regards, Jan
Click to expand...

I have seen some other regulators that were mounted to the frame, mine definatly will not work if its grounded to the frame, everything works but it wont charge the battery (which you dont have)....the blue wire may be ground for the lighting system but does it matter for the rest of the stators output? i dont think there will be an effect on if the stator sends its signal to the coil if the blue wire inst grounded, i could be wrong though

:cheers:
 

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