Husaberg 650 cranksaft clearance adjusting start 0.28

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J

Jussi

Joined
May 1, 2017
Messages
38
Location
finland
Finally i am rebuild 03 650 engine back together,i put rollerbearings both crankcases,i measured connection rod Lateral play was 0.5mm.

When i got cranksaft and crankcases tighten and measured Lateral play on cranksaft dial gauge i got reading 0.28 so i need more space to get 0.55-0.65 lateral play,where i can get more space? So is it clue only way sealed crankcases together or could i make paperseal 0.3mm thick or should i machine metal cranksaft etc?
 
If there are no shims left to take out then yes you need to machine the bearing bores deeper. It's common on the early cases

You should aim for 0.6-0.7mm crank axial play.

The machining is easy and setup is not very critical because the bearing outer race has a big radius on its corner. Ie you don't need the machined part of the case to be exactly concentric to the existing bearing bore.

We can't space the cases apart because the liner won't fit afterwards

You could machine or grind one or both of the main bearing inner races instead but then you will have to do that every time
 
Thanks advice i think its easiest way to grind main bearing inner races that was one option belive or not.

I also need to know what is cranksaft Crank Primary Gear bolt torque moment also sylinderhead?
 
your con rod only needs around 0.4mm float, check this again out of the engine, do it carefully, you may find you have much more.

next, check behind the balancer for a shim hidden here.

finally, when this happens to me I'm a little cheeky and I grind the back of the inner race myself very carefully against the side face of my bench grinder (also known as a wall grinder) by grinding every 1/4 for a dab, turn, dab, turn dab. hot fingers! hot fingers! use a very-near caliper and adjust accordingly. you are only talking about 0.1-0.2mm so it isn't too bad.

Taffy
 
I measured con rod 0.5 cauge slide easy and i check behind balanser no shims there.
 
If you go for 0.6 to 0.7 mm crank axial play the rod needs 0.5 axial play absolute minimum

Unless your building it for an old woman to ride to church on Sunday's
 
Nooo:eek: i allready ported and finished seat area get hopefully more power,Some say that oil pressure drops too low on con rod if axial play get too big??

I read that athena have some ignition unit wich get more revs power?has anybody better information tuning programs?
 
Last edited:
I do a better ignition advance! we've only had about 6 people have it but i know they found more midrange and snap.

you can't lose oil pressure like that on a roller bearing crank.

Taffy
 
I got it last night axial play ok but endet use allmost all shim plates,probably cranksaft neck carry shims so ai ended crind bit too much when i notised this i put all shims balancer side better luck next time after 300h?

I checked sparepart picture that i got local huski dieler shims are different diameter both sides,flywheel side is inside diameter is 0.5 0.7 larger hopefully this help other avoid same mistake.
 
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Hi what might be torque newton metres cranksaft Crank Primary Gear bolt torque moment also sylinderhead?
 
the primary gear NUT is 81LB/foot which is about 90N/mm I think?

the cylinder nuts are 46LB which I guess is about 52N/mm I think?

Taffy
 
Thanks for manual i gues there are somewhere but icouldt find,but finally bike is one piece and got started easy and running nice but since i got starting problem,i checked ignition spark and it was yellow i think that spark should be blue.
 
that isn't proof of much really.

they can be orange with a poor old plug and then blue when carbon has been burnt off. monday orange, tuesday blue...... who knows Wednesday?

Taffy
 
Plug is new iridium plug and before engine maintanence it was already starting problems.
 
I still stand by what I said.

i can turn the fuel screw half-a-turn and ruin the electric start. I can let the slide down half a turn and same problem.

last week I had a Husaberg with a hanging idle and I thought either 5d BTDC firing was too late or too small PJ but which?

I tried a larger PJ and with fuel screw out three turns, still hanging idle. then I change ignition timing 0.5mm....half a phuqin mm and the hanging idle went, then I put the PJ back to 'aswas' and the bike is now a beautiful starter!

valve clearances, worn carbs, choke....don't talk to me about the choke. I could write a book about the choke!

Taffy
 
Try normal plug

The amount of "problems" I've seen solved by putting iridium plugs in the bin ............
 
I compared sparks that iridium plug spark looks stronger then i put more gasoline tank it was nierly empty and it starts again and run half minute then stop.so i deside to check carburator i was already put it pieces and cleaned every think look like ok but now i find that other floter? was 1/3 full of fuel i dont know is that any effekt how engine working but i tried clued floter and try again.
 
That's the thing with iridium

Everything can look fine but they can be complete ****

On one of dr c s videos you see him throw one In the bin and say

"I will never never ever see an iridium plug in my workshop again ! "

If your unsure about anything with the engine remove iridium and test
 

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